Some mock up of your idea which I really like! Of course adjustments to be made, and the mock up building, too big? Is the Mansions garage Just messing around, but thanks it's way better having roads and cars in the scene. much appreciated for the idea. Might need to expand the parking lot? And just plug lights at some point, a bench to chill, coke machine My head is spinning now with ideas! This is really cool! Thank You! Is this too small for something like that or too old? I'll look around some more, see what I think I like?
Now I can switch the sign Off/On and select the 42 different sign options without having to lift it up, unless I need fresh batteries. I'll hide it with stuff from the front view
Sorry, should have done this at first And the Big Black thing is Zip tie! But the building faces me so I don't see it unless I go behind the building, And I put items in front of the holes so I don't see them from the front angle. And YES that is the entire controller board that I Zip tied. And I lift the entire building to change the batteries. Might get an AC charger at some point?
The wall adapter beats having to change out batteries lol. Most of the animations threaten to give me seizures (just kidding but I'm not running a disco tech) so I find the one I like most and leave it there.
Yeah some are actually hard to look at, and I too usually stick on one for awhile. At least now I can change it without it being a pain. Much easier, me likes Not the cleanest job, but it works and is hidden 98% of the time!
Alright in the near future I have to take everything OFF both bases to wire up some more remote switches, and on the L, which is this is the picture of it, I have to secure 3/8" 2'x4' cork for base, 2" foam on top of it, and lay roadbed and wire for DCC with another terminal board, and some remote switches to be decided. I want to add my very first water feature ( wish me luck ), and not really sure where to put it? I could ADD it to the back area, which I almost never see, or put it on a corner, doesn't sound like a good idea, or add it where the Programming Track is located now and where I sit. Which means I will see every time I run my layout as I sit in my rolling desk chair there. Also, since I have never done this the items appear to run and soak into areas. Should I add a thin layer of aluminum foil or something to keep it from soaking in? And I have noticed it usually runs out on the edge of the base too when people pour it? Any ideas appreciated. I've pretty much decided I want these plans for both bases. I like how they look and how I can run trains. Bad thing about having folding tables is the wiring is hidden once the bases are put on them. Oh well, it's what I have to use to be able to take them down quickly if need be. I guess I could make the back area a large pond for the canoes Planning on mocking up the tiny yard with that 2mm foam stuff people are using. I think I have some? Oh well decisions to be made at some point. Really need to try something while broken down incase I have to buy new foam board cause I screw it up?
As far as water features go check out this video: I'd recommend going to the local Home Depot or Lowes and pick up a sheet of at least 3/4" foam insulation board that you can cut up for the layout base. Then with the leftover foam build standoffs underneath the base foam board so you can run wire in the voids when sitting on your table. For ease Your water feature will need a solid layer of foam under it which you should have enough leftover if you get a 4'x8' sheet. That will raise the base layout elevation 1-1/2" from where it is now. To preserve the foam on the edges from damage resulting from bumps/collisions get some thin ply and cut strip to cover then apply with contact cement to the raised base. Glue the wood at the wood-wood joints i.e. the corners. Cut the strips a little tall then have the upper edge above the base so they can double as safety to keep derailed trains at the edge from falling onto the floor.
N Scale - Kato Zephyr CB&Q Silver Streak 6 Unit Set. Haven't run it in forever. I bet I don't have 2 hours running time for this set or the locomotive. Was and are thinking about selling it. But since making some adjusting and after getting the NCE PowerCab to adjust things, rethinking it now? Took me forever to figure out how to dim the headlight. It is so bright when on in normal mode. I had to look at 3 different Digitrax documents to figure it out, where as my TCS decoder in the ES44DC's was all on one page For me and me ONLY, DCC has changed the hobby for me. Took me a very long time, and have gone from very basic Bachmann locomotives, and Bachmann EZ Command Controller, which I still love, but man the NCE PowerCab is in a different world completely, entering Long locomotive numbers, changing CV's ( still a ton to learn ), momentum control is something I could never achieve for DC, and the list goes on. And I didn't have much invested in DC compared to a lot of others. And I have a very small layout, and it makes all the difference in the world to me. And after a TON of help from members here, DCC wiring that I was so freaked about, was not as difficult as I thought. It did take me a very long time to figure out or realize that though, a long time. Now a larger layout I have no clue about wiring for DCC and splicing this and that? Just having some fun! Which is what it's all about, right?
Good to read that you are enjoying DCC! DCC wiring is quite simple. So simple, in fact, a Moose who's all hooves can do it. Is there something specific about DCC wiring that you have questions about?
No questions at this time, as the first base is all wired for DCC, and moving onto the second base in the near future. Just enjoying what I have at this point in time.
Alright time to do some cork roadbed, DCC wiring, and such in the next few days. Took everything OFF this base, and actually cut the foam for the first time. Not really sure how it is going to work or If it will work but need to decide soon while it is a blank slate BTW, has anyone used Atlas Flex track and actually bent it? I am thinking of trying it, if it works, to cut down on so many small pieces on my layout. For instance instead of 6 pieces of 11" or 9 3/4 " , I would replace them with ONE piece of Flex track? Worth a try, I have like 8 pieces of Flex track. Figure it would help with any potential derailments, and DCC wiring a bit. I could be wrong and it end up worse? I have no clue! At least I will Learn something NEW! This is the 2nd 2'x4' base to form the L for the layout. At times it probably will be stored away when need be.
Flex track is the best way instead of using regular Atlas sectional track. It can be cut to any length.
I agree with George. Whenever possible, (and for those of us who do not hand lay their track), indeed flex track is the way. Less potential for issues such as derailing and loss of electrical continuity at so many joints, which can be found with common sectional track. This is where Unitrack steps up. Although sectional, their locking system makes it work.
Agree, and why I want to try and see if I can use the flex in some areas. I don't really have any bad issue at this time, but figure the less sectional pieces the better for many reasons. Plus something else to try and learn. I have so much Atlas track, there is no way I am investing in Unitrack. and my empire is tiny compared to others. And because I am so used to it, I actually like it. Now the turnouts/switches are a bit on the large size, look's wise, but it's fine. Right now while I lay cork roadbed and drop the wiring for DCC, ( need another terminal board, etc... ) taking the opportunity to inventory locomotives, rolling stock, etc... see if have jewel cases or packing for items, what I might want to run been stuck in storage, possible coupler changes, maybe sell some stuff. Kind of a Pre-Spring cleaning so to speak! Also need to go through the totes too Thanks everyone!
This should be interesting. Adding my cheap left over water remaining! Put wax paper under it to keep it from soaking in to the base We will see if it works after it dries another 12 hours! Might be an epic fail? It's all about learning. I'll try to add some other scenery and see how it turns out. If it works I'll either get some more cheap water, or the WS Realistic water? Hey at least the canoers have some more water now I got some coffee stirrers last time I bought a cup of coffee and gonna try to use them as pipes for the water to come out of the wall, really have no clue. Never done anything like this before And yes I know it looks rough close up. But I sit in my chair right next to it, and don't really notice from a foot or two away from it. First go at it. Can't get the canoers in focus sorry. I really like using the wax paper to keep it from soaking through, it worked.
Flex track versus sectional track: I agree that flex track is better because you minimize rail joints. However, there are some advantages for sectional track with small radius curves. If you are doing 9-11 inches radius and 90 or 180 degree curves, you may find it easier with sectional track as it holds in the end of the curve. All my flex track curves are 15 inches or greater and I let the flex out flatten out gently at the end of the curve into the straight track, (this curve easement requires of 1/4 inch of additional width and 3-5 inches of additional length to the curve). I would be interested in other opinions flex track for small radius curves? - Tonkphilip
