The NEW C&L Layout

in2tech Mar 22, 2021

  1. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    Alright I am starting all over again on the C&L Layout ( originally meant Cheap Layout, but that no longer holds true, but the name still sticks ). Well at least the layout base at this point. Gonna try to make it better this time around since I have watched so many people here, and YouTube videos to get ideas and inspiration. It's two sections of 2' x 4' with one section up all the time, and the second being able to be put up to make an L for longer running at times, and then be stored away the rest of the time.

    After watching tons of videos and reading threads here. I went and bought the supplies needed to get started. But I still have many questions during this process. Here is what I have for now.

    IMG_0889.JPG

    Far to the right in the picture is the Brown 1/8" 2x4 sheets I bought for the top. But now I am thinking of just gluing the foamboard directly on top of the 1x4 pieces to make it lighter and not have to drill through another layer to install lights, etc... Wonder if the foamboard will warp if I don't use the top piece? I also purchased two brand new adjustable 2' x 4' tables so it will be completely flat now on a solid base ( the tables ). Any ideas appreciated, I am gonna try to go very slow this time, try :) It will be in a heated and air conditioned area 24/7!
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2021
  2. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    And $80.00 worth of new tables, finally. Cheap Layout, I don't think so Tim :)

    Table.png
     
  3. MK

    MK TrainBoard Member

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    If the wooden frame pictured above is 2' x 4' then 2" foam will not warp when glued down on all sides.

    How thick of a foam board do you plan to use? You never mentioned that.
     
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  4. badlandnp

    badlandnp TrainBoard Member

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    With the framing you have there, gluing the foam board down is going to work fine. It looks like the purple stuff in your pic is the foam board, 1 " size??
     
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  5. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks, I also have in mind to return the 1/8" 2x4 top board. Not even sure what it is made of, forgot to look? And possibly get a 1/8", 1/4", or whatever seems to be a sturdy top and won't warp on me, even if it is 1/2", and put hinges on it and maybe some kind of tiny latch system so that I can raise it like a hood of a car and a contraption that would hold it up while I work on wiring and such? I'm not sure, I might be over thinking it, but I am old, and any thing to make it easier for me is at least good to think about, before I get rolling. I want to do this right, if I can, this time.

    I thought it was 2", but apparently it is only 1" thick.

    Here is the foam I bought:

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Project...Foam-Board-Insulation-Sheathing-PP1/203553730

    I can't find the 2x4 top piece on their website I bought. Not really sure I like it and one piece when I brought it home is already warping some? I do have ( which I can no longer find ), two pieces of 2' x 4' corkboard which I have on my old bases and I love the stuff. Think roadbed on the entire surface. Screwed down, so I can reuse it. But I am trying to figure out how to use it, when I bought the foam to be able to do lakes, streams, mountains, etc... with the plaster cloth I bought. Once again any ideas how to achieve this stuff is much appreciated as well as photos of your own projects or layout's.

    BTW, I got lucky that 2' x 4' is kind of modular as they appear to make a lot of precut 2' x 4' items they sell at hardwood stores. Guess I just got lucky :)

    image1.jpg

    Ideas or thoughts?
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2021
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  6. badlandnp

    badlandnp TrainBoard Member

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    Glue the foam board to your framework. Then the cork glues down just where the rails will be. Then when you have decided on scenery, cut the faom board up into shapes and glue it down. Be sure to use foam board adhesive, so it doesn't eat away the foam.
     
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  7. NtheBasement

    NtheBasement TrainBoard Member

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    One advantage of a wood layer is it strengthens the 1x4s' weak butt joints by acting as a giant gusset.
     
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  8. BNSF FAN

    BNSF FAN TrainBoard Supporter

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    For that size frame and the cross braces you have, you will be fine with the one inch foam. The pink foam from HD is easy to glue using plain ole DAL caulk. That is what I used with the pink foam on my current and previous layouts and never had an issue. If you ae going to use Unitrack, you don't even need the cork but if you are using regular style track, I agree with Alan about just putting down cork where you need it. Going to be fun to follow along on this one. :)
     
  9. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    Yeah already bought the DAP ALEX Latex stuff, I think it is called. It's in the very first picture towards the back of the picture. It was $1.78 cheap. I looked for some cheap paint too in a brown color and could not find any. Everything was really expensive and had to be mixed? Maybe I was looking in the wrong area. Gonna look at Michaels too. I don't think I need much paint, do I? Maybe even look at a dollar store.

    Because they are both on a FLAT service this time. I shouldn't get any warp. And I may have to store the L under the bed instead of leaning against the wall to prevent it from warping when not in use.

    Next will be suggestions about my track plan. I never have really clued or attached my track cause I could never make up my mind. Also, inclines, bridges, etc... Mine now is completely flat. I'll take a picture of it at some point.

    Any track plan ideas appreciated too, if you are interested in contributing.

    Thanks everyone!
     
  10. MK

    MK TrainBoard Member

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    Go to Home Depot's Oops! paint section. I'm sure Lowes has the same. These are the mixed paint that customers brought back because it was mixed wrong, etc. The last time I purchased some it was $1/quart and $0.50/pint. A pint can paint your 2x4 foam board a few coats (you will need at least two for coverage). You will be surprised at what kind of colors that people buy! :eek:

    Note that different stores will have different Oops! paint and even during different days depending on the returns. I've gotten all kinds of MRR suitable colors from black to all kinds of brown and earth/nature colors.

    BTW, the reason why 2x4 is a common size is that it's a quarter of sheet material (plywood, dry wall, etc.)
     
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  11. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    Will look are ask about the Oops section. Thanks for the tip. It appears MOST people use a brown base color to HIDE mistakes in the scenery process, or blend in?
     
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  12. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    Speaking of Oops! I knew I was bad at math, but not this bad. Had all the wood precut at Home Depot. Thank goodness I was on the long error side and not the too short one. Good thing I did a trail run, or I would have been screwed. Have to cut the two end pieces to go on the inside not the out as I had them cut them at HD. Also in the first picture that extra 1x4 is 2 feet and should work great as a shelf for my cheap ( actually member here gave it to me, all I had to pay was shipping 3-4 years ago. Very nice people here. ) Bachmann DCC EZ Command Controller, which I love BTW. Not for everyone, perfect for me at this point. My Just Plug lighting Hub, and Rerailer, and hopefully a coffee cup, and some other small items. Thinking about drilling a hole for the base of the coffee cup to keep it from sliding around. If I can get it to work. If it does might add a shelf to the L piece, maybe!

    Second picture shows the screw up in measuring and the third is the DAP ALEX stuff. It is the correct caulk right?
    IMG_0898.JPG IMG_0897.JPG IMG_0899.JPG

    I can see I am gonna have to take my time to account for me measuring wrong or some other kind of mistake. Hope I don't make a really bad mistake :) Reason I am trying to go super slow this time.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2021
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  13. badlandnp

    badlandnp TrainBoard Member

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    Mistakes are always fixable. And a part of the 'fun' because all it costs is a bit of time, sometimes cash, and sometimes pride. We all have made a booboo or three on our layouts, no big deal! Keep after it!
     
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  14. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    Recent visit to the local Hobby Shop Tuesday and after they matched the internet prices ( they usually do ) walked away with items I have been wanting for awhile now. Went to get a Woodland Scenics N Scale fence or two, but when they decided to match pricing, walked away with four. And walking down the NEW isles, ( they moved about a year ago to a bigger place ), I spotted the Walthers N Scale Modern Gas Station that I have been wanting, score! When I can would rather support locally if they can give me a deal. But if I need Atlas switches or other items, I'll have to buy from the internet. So on my future list is some Atlas track and such, if I need it. Won't really know till I decide on some kind of plan I want.

    IMG_0894.JPG
     
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  15. BNSF FAN

    BNSF FAN TrainBoard Supporter

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    That is the same caulk I used so you should be good. (y)

    That modern gas station looks cool. Kind of wish I had a spot to put one. :)
     
  16. MK

    MK TrainBoard Member

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    As BNSF Fan said, that's the right kind of caulk.

    Once your layout reaches "steady state" and there's less major build going on, you can get this instead (same manufacturer) as it has a cap and in a smaller tube so it doesn't dry out as fast. Use some clear packing tape around the cap and it will even last longer. I have had tubes that last a year.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Kwi...tchen-and-Bath-Adhesive-Caulk-18873/100040837

    The problem with the big tubes is that resealing them are hard to do so if you need a little for repairs or small builds, the tube will dry out faster than you can use it all. I know it's inexpensive but still...I hate waste.
     
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  17. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    Stick a 16d nail into the spout end. Stops the caulk from drying out inside the spout....and rendering the whole tube useless ! JMO
     
  18. Shortround

    Shortround TrainBoard Member

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    Keep posting your progress please. I'm also one of those oldies and plan to start a new layout soon. I have several of those tables and six hollow core doors of different widths so I think I will use them for frame work. The down side is I have two 'HO' steamers DCC, two 40' reefers, three 50' boxers, six old 40' flat cars and three old passengers. Also one 'N' SW1200 engine DC.
    Now to decide which way to go in a two bedroom apartment.:unsure:
    And no direct means to transport materials. Other than the mailman/mailwoman.
     
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  19. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    Poured some of the Artminds Water onto the plastic top, let sit for about 14 hours and scraped it off with that paint scrapper blade.

    Instant pond. I am proud of myself for thinking about doing this. Now I can make different size ponds. If it works again.

    What do you think?

    IMG_0901.JPG IMG_0902.JPG IMG_0903.JPG
     
  20. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    What do the 'ponds' like like if you flip them over after they cure ? The edges of them right side up doesnt look like water would at the bank of a pond....to rounded. Flipping them over would give a flatter edge at the bank. Just thinking out loud...:whistle:
     
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