Pizza cutters are higher flanged wheels. Works very well and super dependable on C80 tracks. But on lower profile tracks, e.g., C55, the flange is too deep and hit the ties/nail heads, often making noises or vibrating. It was common to include the low profile wheels when factory were pizza cutters. The modeler can make the choice. From what I heard, they don't do that anymore as they now use "regular profile" wheels from the factory that works with C55 and not as big flanged as the old day pizza cutters. An in between solution. Why spend extra money by including a second set of wheels when only one set is used at a time.
So your saying the Pizza Cutters for Code 80, which is what I have, is on by default? Whatever is one there is running fantastic. Which is very rare for open rolling stock for my layout, which is my fault for not securing it properly, or at all
Yes, I believe if extra wheels are included, then the mounted ones are pizza cutters. If no extra wheels are included then it's the newer stuff. You can easily tell if it's a pizza cutter just by looking and comparing to lower profile wheels. After a while you can just tell by looking.
I'll look at mine, but is there a photo that shows the difference? Is it even noticeable by looking at it from normal distance, or is it all about how they run?
Look at the pictures in this article... https://www.trains.com/mrr/beginners/guide-to-n-scale-metal-wheelsets/
Yes they do, why I like the Amtrak P42's so much, and my new CN ES44AC and my CSX ES44DC's. They run on my Atlas Code 80 track even though I refuse to secure it properly cause I am always changing stuff, and will not commit, plus just lazy. Maybe one day, maybe. That is not true of my Kato Amtrak lighted cars, and the new CN coal porters, just because of my track work. Not the actual items fault I am amazed the CN Lumber cars works so well, but they do, for now. The roadbed is also not secured properly But I have fun when I am in the mood to run trains. And that's really all that matters. Need to get the P42 Operation Lifesaver back out, and at least try the Amtrak lighted passenger cars again. It's also a very small 2' x4' layout with 11" and 9 3/4 radius, so there is that. But all I have room for and the other 2' x 4' base to form an L, once in awhile. Don't have space for it to be up all the time. Need to get it out too, run longer trains.
Running the Amtrak P42 Midnight Blue with the correct rolling stock the Kato Viewliner set. Different smart phone lighting on each. One had to turn on the flash to see the wording AMERICA on the locomotives, as it's in RED. In the Dark Flash OFF, it's looks WAY better in person, very cool! Flash ON! Flash OFF! I hope I got that right.
I don't know how much you have invested in track but if you are always changing stuff you may want to think about Kato Unitrack. They are meant to be changed constantly with no ill effects on the connections. The Japanese do that all the time due to their small living quarters.
Thanks, have too much invested in the Atlas Code 80, as I have ton's of it. It's really about me just taking the time to do it correctly. It's not the track's fault, it's mine Appreciate it though. Not saying I'll never try it, just not at the moment I'm not sure cause I don't know enough about Kato Unitrack, but I don't think I could do a 9 3/4" and 11" radius on my 2' x 4', base, and have the room I have? We may never know And I am not really crazy about the BIG attached ( ballast I guess ) pieces to be honest. Not for me! Plus I also have 4-6 flex track pieces that I could replace 3-6 pieces of sectional curved track and fix a lot of my issues, just haven't done it yet Maybe I need to hire someone
Using what you have makes economic sense. More $ for trains! Unitrack roadbed is 25 mm wide (just under 63/64ths of an inch). So an 11" radius oval of track would fit in your 24" space with room to spare on each side.
Kato has 9.8” and 11.1” radius curves that would work for you but since you already have more than enough track it wouldn’t make sense for you. The one big advantage of Unitrack is that it is made to be assembled and disassembled over and over again and it’s ultra reliable.
I have learned for the most part, never say never. I have eaten those words so many times And what's sad is I keep on saying it often, oh well! Thanks for everyone's help, much appreciated! Still not really a fan of the Unitrack roadbed, for now. Or the Bachmann either, or any of them that have the roadbed built into it. Like I said I could end up buying some Unitrack one day and loving it. That's how I roll Or is it?
Bachman track has attached roadbed, but conventional rail joiners. The roadbed incudes tabs that help align and physically connect track sections. The key to Unitrack's reliability and reusability is the Unijoiner (the rail joiner for Unitrack). The Unijoiner is constructed differently than conventional rail joiners. The metal joiner contact is wrapped in a plastic shell that supports the contact, pressing the contact's blades against the sides of the rail web. Then the plastic Unijoiner shell is in turn supported by the pockets molded into the Unitrack roadbed ends, which ensure that joined Unitrack sections are mechanically aligned. The result is reliable electrical & mechanical connections between each section of Unitrack. Even power distribution for Unitrack is accomplished with feeder wires soldered to Unijoiner contacts. This allows easy distribution of power feeds throughout the layout, without soldering anything to the rails (which then protects the roadbed/ties from excessive heat and melting.) Simply swap out a pair of Unijoiners with powered Unijoiners that were soldered to wires on a workbench, not on/under the layout. You only need a slightly larger hole in the layout base to pass the powered Unijoiners up through.
Agree with the other commenters regarding Kato quality and reliability, also believe attached roadbed provides better track support for the transportable layouts I build. Struggled when deciding on track for the little wall hanging layout. Side by side, and w/o cork RB, the Kato stands out too much. I really would have preferred look of the Atlas for this layout, especially since no roadbed was planned. Kato curved track 45deg requires only 8 segments vs 12 for the Atlas 30deg when making a 360deg circle -- Adding 4 additional segment junctions and potential fault areas It took me quite a while to align the Atlas oval. Decided -- swapping to Kato. One other minor plus enjoyed with the Kato is the ability to attach or remove from the layout board using #0 x 3/4" wood screws and opening track holes to 5/64", instead of harder to remove nails or adhesive. The Atlas ties are too narrow to fit the #0 screw. Without a doubt the plastic roadbed is the big downside, being about 1/4" h or 40" n scale. From the floor to my waist.... Ballasting and landscape can help a bit... In the end, good to try to use what you already own if you have the install skills. The dual loops on my 2 x 4 layout are 9.75" and 11"
I need to add a small shelf to my layout that I can put coffee cup, maybe turn out power supply, rolling stock, etc... on my 2' x 4' base so I don't have to setup a TV tray, the other 2'x4' folding table just to run trains for a bit. I am thinking maybe 24"x24" ( maybe smaller) and no more then like 1/8" thick, or thicker? Would these type lockable hinges work, for those type items? I also don't want it to TIP the 2'x4' layout base towards me It's just sitting on a folding table the same size and has adjustable legs on it. It is NOT attached to the folding table in anyway. Do you push those small PINs to release it and fold it down? https://www.amazon.com/Suiwotin-Folding-Foldable-Fittings-Workbench/dp/B0C6CTHY7T/ref=sr_1_7?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.fSjzKUHhs8YS6Yqv2nSiuygaYayBrMBDuCuESm0blcizShZLUrXkq7A0cCjqxFOR-ofJczyDSRpej47vpfcRu8PqNPsmfh8fHu1jGnR0y_sbsKItwsPdWK5qyu-ms_R8Fk2NJfgiA4MlVpEqptDv7tYpM02BGowz0fzzvow4Zanbs4rYjiA14u30fZEepZjQ9D71m-DOqahR6wPZRCtTSeJRzVpbpeMGLJM9-eephf0gc-OoTTJP6u5tEeXwwiY6o-QhhWTT0MPzhDDL_3xQpHZN5iTtrdnktuL_v46PinE.QX4sEe_-svBMAlGtpjfy9xNR6UdzLZXo3R8YbLCI254&dib_tag=se&keywords=Locking+Hinge&qid=1728085383&sr=8-7&th=1 Shelf here:
Looks to me like the hinge pin is spring loaded, and pops out a bit to lock the hinge when opened. You push it back in to fold the hinge down.
Unitrack has single crossovers that are cheaper than two switches. The mechanical and electrical mechanisms are unified, with a common control (manual and electric).
