The C&L Layout & Beyond

in2tech Jan 22, 2024

  1. country joe

    country joe TrainBoard Member

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    I’ve used wire nuts for many years with them never coming off. They are cheap and easy to use. The small gray ones work best for the small gauge wire we use on our layouts. For heavier gauge wire use a larger wire nut.

    Soldering wires on your workbench is fairly easy but doing it under the layout is neither easy nor fun.

    IMG_0680.jpeg
     
  2. cbg

    cbg TrainBoard Member

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    I use some of this on my last layout as shown in the picture. I just cut it to fit where I needed and painted the edge yellow (loading zone in this case) to simulate the curb. Another piece used just as sidewalk looked okay as well. Better street and some weathering would make it look much better.

    P1000294.JPG P1000213-2.jpg P1000296.JPG
     
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  3. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

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    True, true, true and the reason....

    [​IMG]

    .... I'm running a perimeter track and accessory buss. Drop a wire off of a track or frog or servo and reach under and pull it to the side and ....

    [​IMG]

    ,,,, solder easily to either the track buss or accessory buss.

    I do have one buss under the layout directly under the upper level in the center of the layout.

    [​IMG]

    I'll drop the track feeds from the upper layout to it and can ....

    [​IMG]

    ... roll under on one of my creepers (one in foreground above) and solder in front of me not overhead.

    More on the perimeter buss....

    https://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/UP%20Canyon%20Division/page-160.html

    https://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/UP%20Canyon%20Division/page-183.html

    Sumner
     
  4. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    So how do you use these like a wire nut? Which is what I am using now. I mean they appear to work fine, just wondering IF one might fall off at some point? And Atlas switch/turnout wires are tiny. The WS Just Plug has it's own connectors system for even smaller wires. I also ONLY see sets of different styles which I am not sure I would need.
     
  5. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    The small GREY ones are exactly what I am using now. Guess I'll still use with them for now. But those WACO things are really cool.
     
  6. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    So is that 1/8, 1/4, etc... That's exactly what I want to achieve. Is that layout N Scale? And what size is the last picture in inches depth wise?

    2024-08-15_11-41-45.png
     
  7. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

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    Unfortunately Wago connectors won't connect wires to rails or rail joiners. They are great at connecting wires together.

    You can solder feeder wires to rails or rail joiners from above the layout, or even on a workbench, which is much more comfortable while holding a hot iron and dealing with molten solder that may drip...

    Then drill holes through the layout deck underneath the powered rail joiners, drop the attached wires through to underneath the layout, and connect them to your power wires, using Wagos under the layout.
     
  8. cbg

    cbg TrainBoard Member

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    In2tech, this is/was N scale. The sidewalk sheet is .040 (1/25) thick Evergreen number 4514. The sidewalk is about 3/4 wide.
     
  9. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    Here's a video that appears to explain it, I only skimmed it though, I don't know the person.



    As for pulling out a wire, I tried putting a 20awg wire in one, closed the lever down and I can't pull the wire out. But open the lever and it's fully reusable. Oh and the levers will not accidentally open, they're tight
     
  10. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    What size did you use, size of the squares I mean? At least I think that's what they mean here?

    2024-08-15_18-34-41.png
     
  11. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    I am just going to use the little GREY wire nuts I have, they work and are simple to use also. I should be good. I think I was making more complicated then I needed too.
     
  12. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

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    The package for the wire nuts should say what sizes, and how many, wires they can accommodate.

    But I don't know how small they can be (rated for, say, just a couple of 22 awg wires?)

    And they might have problems reliably connecting widely dissimilarly sized wires (e.g. two 12 awg bus wires & a 22 awg feeder.)
     
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  13. country joe

    country joe TrainBoard Member

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    He said he used 4514, the first one in the picture you posted.
     
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  14. cbg

    cbg TrainBoard Member

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    Yep, that's the one. Thank you for clarifying.....
    And to add some insight into how the decision was made to use that particular size, well, it looked good and was all the vendor had in stock at the time!
     
  15. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    NOT my bottle, but mine is very close to it. Anyway mine is stored at room temperature but it has gotten thicker while sitting and does not FLOW like it used too. Any ideas? I have to open it up and use a toothpick now to apply it instead of it flowing out as it should, when cap is removed.

    2024-09-05_02-32-06.png
     
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  16. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    Eventually it always does the same to me. I would buy a new bottle. Myself I buy the smallest bottles possible because if this. That and invariably, no matter how careful to wipe the nozzle, it becomes caked until the cap doesn't even fit!

    I developed an allergy to CA glue after a few years of building model planes. I have to use it sparingly else the sinuses clog up and I feel like I'm coming down with a cold.
     
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  17. MK

    MK TrainBoard Member

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    Once CA starts to thicken it's done. I would not use it. It's bonding strength is severely reduced.

    To prevent that, store it in the freezer. Yes, the freezer! It's the moisture and temperature that causes the thickening. The freezer solves both. :D

    Before using, just let it warm up to room temperature. Since the bottle is small and CA doesn't freeze to a solid, it only takes a few minutes.

    I have bottles in my freezer for years and they are still good.

    I fly RC airplane and I'm not going to risk $$$ and the danger of a big crashing airplane if I don't think the CA is holding things up. :)

    @Stephane Savard you can get ordorless CA aka foam friendly CA and it won't trigger your allergy. They do cost more, but perform the same.
     
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  18. sidney

    sidney TrainBoard Member

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    Hummm something new cool i too used to build planes and always had bad ca glue ,so i just bought new glue.. im gunna try the freezer trick Thank You for this tip.............................
     
  19. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    Interesting, would it hurt to store it in a sandwich bag in the freezer? I rarely use it, so I'll just buy a NEW bottle and try this freezer thing. How long can it be out of the freezer while you are working on your project? Thank goodness Tamiya Extra Thin does not do that, it's the glue I use 98% of the time on my plastic models.

    Thanks!
     
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  20. MK

    MK TrainBoard Member

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    You can store them in a sandwich bag but that's not even necessary. I store all my bottles in a little bucket, the pint sized soup containers that often are used in Chinese take out places. I then just throw the bucket into the freezer. The colder the better.

    You can leave it out at room temperature as long as you need it but keep in mind the longer it is NOT in the freezer, the quicker it will deteriorate. I know layouts can take some time so don't take it out and 6 months later you put it back in the freezer. :D What I do as good practice is to never leave it overnight. Once you leave it overnight, you tend to just leave it out "forever".

    The Tamiya Extra Thin does not do that because it's not CA but a solvent. It has it's own problem in that container caps are not 100% so eventually it will evaporate even if you don't use it.
     

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