The C&L Layout & Beyond

in2tech Jan 22, 2024

  1. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    The Atlas Code 80 Switches is what it will power. I'll just use the AC Accessories out on the DC Controller for now.
     
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  2. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    What a mess, and this is just part of it. Trying to organize things again, it's never ending :) We just keep buying stuff, and throw it in something for the moment, and it ends up looking like this, and worse. I found things I kept buying more of, cause I didn't know where it was at the time :) Guess I am the ONLY one :) Geez... and this is just one box or container of many. This is going to take awhile. I don't even know why I have fishing weights, I don't even fish :) What the hell...expecting to find Alcohol, and I don't drink either :) Maybe I'll find some money, NOT!

    IMG_3672.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2024
  3. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    Tell me about it, I have 16 HO rolling stock kits on the back corner of my desk... And I don't even have an HO layout!:ROFLMAO:

    I'm liking your little layout build thread, it's going well!
     
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  4. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    Cheap roads that came with my Amazon cheap cars. It will work for now as a mock-up. Found it when organizing. Better then nothing :) Funny how they are One Way, but not for me.

    IMG_3673.jpg IMG_3674.jpg
     
  5. DeaconKC

    DeaconKC TrainBoard Member

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    I really like how you tried out the road placement. I am wondering though if you were to scoot the Minimart to the left, would you then be able to avoid the road having to go over your switches?
     
  6. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    You mean the switches against the wall? That road will have a Dead End :) Or I might try having it go behind the gas station. Still undecided, but switches are kind of a PITA on a 2'x4' layout, but I have to have them. They also need a straight piece after a curve for my locomotives and rolling stock to work correctly, or near it :) Still working on the mock-up!
     
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  7. DeaconKC

    DeaconKC TrainBoard Member

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    I meant by moving the Minimart, if you placed the roadway on the other side of it, moving the short road to the other side of the Minimart. That way your road is away from your switches entirely so nothing is hitting the switch area.
     
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  8. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    I see what you mean now. My mini mart base has an exit/entrance on left side and front. Not sure IF I will use it yet. Trying a bunch of things. I'll try your suggestion also, thanks! I have a ton of road cause I bought 2 sets of WS traffic lights too. Since that picture above I have added even more road :) I like this cheap road stuff, which is basically meant for kids, guess that's me :) Like I said it came with the cheap cars, so why not use it.

    Like this @DeaconKC? Added some road to the left side too. Like how you can pull this cheap stuff backup and try different things.

    IMG_3675.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2024
  9. MK

    MK TrainBoard Member

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    You can easily take a Sharpie or black paint and get rid of the one way arrows.
     
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  10. country joe

    country joe TrainBoard Member

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    On the T-Trak module I just finished I used a piece of this paper road on the ramp from the road up to the train station base and parking lot. I used a black Sharpie to cover part of the bicycle symbol on the lower left side of the ramp. You can see it in person if you look really closely but it’s not obvious and looks like a patch repair to me.

    IMG_2354.jpeg
     
  11. DeaconKC

    DeaconKC TrainBoard Member

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    Yup, that's what I meant. That way you don't have to worry about interference on your switches.
     
  12. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    I'll try this on a tiny piece I have left over. Thanks!
     
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  13. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    A look through the boxcar :) You have to ignore the tree base :)

    IMG_3680.jpg
     
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  14. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    Saw this at the local hobby shop, but I don't really get it? How do you cut it, and what measurement for N Scale? How do you Round it for a corner? It was extremely hard to even see the squares in the light.

    2024-08-11_16-36-58.png


    2024-08-11_16-37-21.png
     
  15. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    Mostly to cut styrene you can score it a few times with a exacto blade then snap it in half - then sand the edges to get a perfectly square "cut". the rear side is likely smooth, so that's where you can score it. As for rounded bits, well, again, the back is smooth, so you can cut a curve there, or if it's just to round a corner, you could cut it square and then sand down the corner. Might be youtube videos on this.
     
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  16. MK

    MK TrainBoard Member

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    You might have to do a light dark wash to fill in the lines then wash off the surface? Just thinking out loud.
     
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  17. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    So I have a scrap piece of styrene and I am going to try this by just measuring. I dig the way he did his round corners with a coin. Don't have a 3D printer or I would download his files :) Apparently he went with 1/2" depth, and maybe even width?
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2024
  18. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    I'm not really a fan of soldering, but think I might need a very small one for soldering wires mainly on my layout underneath it. What is that BLACK stuff called that you slide on the wire and then cover the joint and shrink it with heat? I am looking at this to buy? I am using the twist connectors now, but am afraid they might come off and cause a short at some point down the road. I would prefer NOT to use a soldering iron really.

    https://www.amazon.com/Fansoun-Portable-Cordless-Soldering-Iron/dp/B0CZ6M8MHJ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1EZHK7DBANZJT&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.LhJo9nnhX5PbDUgOdyE9euBJAElSW6BzG1J0aaSl2Iht5FaeVFUXvhXz0HZIMX8oNEePDC1S13mfZa8enlgigKv_k5L-_frsGUjnEoODVMWtwT0ekYd_xGVmTrS_UigeZlePoR2lTfI_x0ailYr-Mo24c7xIBMdSoOTqVKaMGM5mLM_--j3psrGF2hZ8yLzRNk975uvJpNFBdCWw-0gQNHJslRpiVWxx9f1jIgot8fdtyBU-_ax6ENjb3bk0Y2-yidPwSTBXrbrQT4E8odAYZDMyuW55kyn4EPrNmNzhJVQ.E_Vo46v8GfdRCiYLWmedia_XDaUIT9igcneJuxMo4vg&dib_tag=se&keywords=rechargeable+solder+iron&qid=1723709497&sprefix=rechargeable+solder+iron,aps,129&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

    Another one, has different tips too.

    https://www.amazon.com/Dmyond-Solde...rechargeable+solder+iron,aps,129&sr=8-29&th=1
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2024
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  19. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    If you don't want to solder, then use wago connectors, you can get them on Amazon....

    I just linked to the first example I found, might be better kits or prices for you. Basically these are just lever connectors. I even use the 5 port connectors for lights, I use double sided tape to stick two connectors back to back (gives me two banks for positive and negative), then sticky the back end under the table. The first and last ports are for the bus line and that leaves me with 3 middle ports for plugging in lights.

    Look on YouTube, lots of videos showing how to use these connectors.. they don't come apart unless you want them to, very solid.
     
  20. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    Oh, and the black tubing is heat shrink tube, forgot to answer your question :D
     

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