I'll be the first to admit that XtrackCAD's user interface is a bit trying at times, but it is something you get used to fairly quickly, if you embrace, rather than fight it (like any other capable, complex app.) Sometimes we have to go to the mountain, 'cuz the mountain ain't about to pick up and come to us! If a layout planning app is any good, it will be complex, and therefore a bit trying, until you get more comfortable with it, by simply using it. Pick a track plan from MR, or one posted here, and try implementing it (in any track planning app) to help you learn how to use the app. I did this a lot, while also trying to use Unitrack (often where the author/creator had used flex and/or Atlas sectional track.) And I only use the sectional track features, plus some of the track elevation/grade planning features. There's much more to XtrackCAD that only applies to flex and hand-laid-track layouts. I just "stay in the shallow end" with the sectional track features, and only enable the N-scale Unitrack libraries. I have some areas on the layout where two or more shorter pieces will be replaced with a single, longer piece, shortened to fit (by cutting a section of the roadbed out of the middle, sliding the roadbed halves together, and then trimming the rail ends to length.) But these areas remain represented by the combinations of shorter, standard pieces. There's prolly a way to customize a sectional piece's length within XtrackCAD, but I haven't bothered to look for it.
The learning curve for XTrackCAD is quite steep compared to RR-Track which is another Windows track planning program. Before switching to Apple I tried XTrackCAD. I wasn’t able to figure it out. Then I tried RR-Track and picked it up quickly. After switching to a MacBook I bought Rail Modeller Pro and had no problems learning it. In my experience both RR-Track and Rail Modeller Pro are much easier to use than XTrackCAD but neither is free.
Good thing there are lots of choices, $free & not, to try out, 'cuz there's also lots of different kinds of uses & users!
The #6 Remote Switch next to a #4 Manual Switch, longer at both ends. Installed the #6 for my spur and it looks and works great. Still not sure If I want them on the front and back of the layout though. It's 2 switches on each end, for divergence in and out of the loops.
Can I use this to power my Switches instead of the AC on my DC Controller? It's so big and takes up way more space then I need it too as I don't need the DC part of it, just the AC Accessory connections. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091XSVV1Y/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A3RVBXPX8VM3VL&psc=1 That connector should be ALL I need correct, as I have a terminal I connect it all too. If it will work?
How about this one, to replace the DC Controller with AC Accessories? I want AC out right, like the controller with an AC accessory out slots? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08ZS5LMGZ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ASQ82QWPDLFS4&psc=1 Here is the DC Controller AC Outputs:
You need an adapter that puts out AC, not DC. That's a bit hard to find on Amazon because almost all of them puts out DC. But I found this one that does 120V AC to 12V AC at 1.5A. This will be close to your Accessories terminal of 18VAC. https://www.amazon.com/Reliapro-ADU120150E1012-Adapter-Transformer-Straight/dp/B00B88621O
At 12VAC, that's 33% less than the 18VAC output from the power pack. Maybe it's close enough, maybe not...? I'd be more comfortable with at least 15VAC... But if (a big if) the accessories all use rectifiers to convert the AC to DC internally, then DC would work fine. It just depends on what the accessory bus is or will be driving.
This one states 18 VAC output? Why 3 screw terminals? What do most people use for their layouts? https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...power.html/overview?ap=y&smp=Y&smpm=e_f81_ull
I looked at the spec's and they're silent on the function of the third output terminal. If I had to guess, it's to a center tap on the secondary (output) winding of the transformer. The center tap could be used to access, or ground, the midpoint of the AC voltage (e.g. giving +/- 9V rms relative to the center tap, on each of the outer two screws, or 18VAC directly across the outer two terminals.) If you have an AC voltmeter (or multimeter) measure the AC voltage between the outer two screws, and then measure between an outer terminal and the middle terminal. If it is the center tap, you should be able to measure 18VAC across the outer two screws, and 9VAC from the center screw to each side screw (one at a time; remember, there's still 18VAC between the outer two screws.) Assuming the center screw is the transformer's output winding center tap, and depending on how the 18VAC gets used, it may be preferable to ground the center screw, for electrostatic discharge (ESD) dissipation purposes.
I looked on the web for more information but couldn’t find anything about the 3 output screws. I did find this one with 2 output screws, 16vac. I don’t know a whole lot about electronics so I don’t know if this will work for you but it’s worth a look. https://www.zoro.com/mg-electronics...16v-ac-40va-screw-mount-mgt-1640p/i/G2701442/
There is this one that is 18v. I guess the question is how much current do you need. The one above is 1 amp. If the throttle you showed works why not use it. If it is too big put it down out of the way and run wires from it up to a terminal strip that you connect to. I also have my command station and its power supplies and my Raspberry Pi computer with JMRI connected to a power strip. Everything is turned on or off with one switch. Sumner
Here is the same thing on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Security-Tra...5f9be44f2a0938028ec690e51252f200&gad_source=1 And I guess it would be Ground & 18V? Not sure why there is a Zero V slot?
Mainly cause it is too big and has options I don't need. I will use it for now, till I can figure out IF this or something else works. Surely there are other options for us? That don't cost a fortune
I used Rail Modeler Pro and can attest that its learning curve is on the easy side. The 50 element limit, in the free version, still allowed me to do about 95% of my layout.
Yep, a couple of the ones posted above could fit the bill but...........really need to know how much current you will need. Can you add up the current (amp) draw of what you have now and plan on having in the near future that will be powered? Maybe list the items for us if you aren't sure. Sumner
18vac 2.22 amp .... HERE .... and ... HERE I order from DigiKey quite a bit and their shipping rates are good. Don't know about Mouser, been a while since I've ordered from them (long while). I'd think you would sill need to go from one of those to a terminal strip so don't know if there is much to be gained by putting the throttle you have out of the way and going from it to a terminal strip. If you can get by for 1 amp or less some of the other ones already mentioned would work. I wouldn't go down to 12vac but the 16vac is probably fine. What are they going to power? Sumner
