I finished my first Fast Tracks turnout yesterday. Well, not completely finished, I still have to clean it up, cut the gaps around the frog and glue it to the QuickSticks Laser Ties and then paint and weathering. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I heard some say they have a hard time building N scale turnouts because of the size and I read a post by someone here that said they had to use a different technique than what the Fast Tracks video showed. I think Tim, who does the videos from Fast Tracks, might be left handed. When I switched the soldering iron to my right hand I found it much easier. This was actually my third try and it took about an hour and a half not counting the frog points and guardrails which were already completed for the first try. The first try was a dud because I was still using my old soldering iron with the bad tip and cheap Radio Shack flux. The second try was coming along nicely thanks to my new Weller iron, however I messed up the placement of the straight switch point and decided to start over. I tested with a truck and the frog is very smoth. Here are some photos, again with my point and shoot that does not take the best close ups: This shows the frog area, which is a lot prettier in person. I used the macro setting on my camera. Not sure why it looks like this, the macro setting seams to accentuate any scratch and adds a lot of black. I do have a question for anyone that has done this before. I think this is normal, and I do not have a picture to show what I am referring to, but the natural lie of the points is centered between the two stock rails. So without a switch machine of some type connected the points are not set to straight through or diverging. Does this sound correct? Thanks for looking, Michael
Well, I had my 'golden spike' moment on my railroad last night. Here is a photo taken on my iPhone. You can make out the lone spike in the upper right. The shiny dot on the right most plastic tie is the spike. I am using ME code 55 flex tack and I decided to try to spike the track instead of gluing. I used the expensive Homabed and don't want to ruin it if I decide to take up the track. I am using ME 30-110 spikes but I have read that I should be using 30-106 which are pointy instead of chiseled. These seem to work for me though. I use a pin vise to predrill the holes and two different pliers to insert and then set the spike. I will spike both sides of the rail and will be spiking alternate sides of the track skipping 5 ties between spikes. Thanks for looking, Michael
Congrats on the turnouts and on laying the first track! Always a good feeling. It takes awhile to get the hang of building turnouts, but well worth it. A few suggestions: You are going to have to make some cuts to isolate the frog. I strongly recommend getting these Dedeco thin cutting discs that Chris333 recommended me. Here's a pict of the Dedeco cuts in the front, with the "ultra thin" Dremel cutting disc in the back: [like your camera, mine on macro makes my trackwork look ugly, though, to be fair, I haven't cleaned up, filed & washed the bottom turnout yet] I like to have two PC board ties on each side of the cut, as indicated with red marks for the ties, and green lines where the cut goes (the yellow line for the upper turnout is where I should have cut). I liked to have two ties on each side because cutting with the Dremel would sometimes pop them off, but now that I'm using the Dedeco cutting disc, perhaps I don't need that many pc ties. Here's where I'd add ties (red) and make the cuts (yellow) to yours: Now looking at it, I'd add another one under the frog, connecting it to the point guard rails: this area tends to bend slightly, either raising or lowering the frog point. The lower guard rail shouldn't touch the tie after the cut, so it might have to be cut back a wee bit (hard to see). I'd add the extra ties around the throwbar area as the movement tends to weaken a single tie. Other suggestions: --Use Blacken It to color the fixture before installing (you won't have to paint the rails, and the top won't be so shiny) --Use HO pc boards for the throwbars: gives more space for the hole for the turnout control and a better base for soldering the points. --Power your frogs! use a slide switch or tortise or bluepoints or whatever, but, as someone who's currently ripping out his turnouts and replacing with rebuilt one with powered frogs, it's worth the time to figure out now! Have fun!
MC, Thanks! And thanks for all the tips. As I said in a previous post, " I still have to clean it up, cut the gaps around the frog and glue it to the QuickSticks Laser Ties and then paint and weathering.". I used the Fast Tracks jigs. Fast Tracks recommends cutting gaps between the already installed pc ties. Tim from Fast Tracks says that the heat from the dremel can actually melt the solder, so maybe that is why yours were poping up with the thicker discs. I will be using a jewlers saw to cut the gaps so there shouldn't be that much heat generated. For securing the frog, Fast Tracks recommends turning the switch machine over and soldering the frog to pc tie closest to the point. That is what I did. I am using the Tam Valley Depot servos to move the points and a snap switch mounted directly on the back of the servo so that the servo horn actuates the switch, switching power to the frog as the points move. Thanks for all the great advice. I will consider it while I move forward. Thanks for looking, Michael
Hey Michael.... the title of this layout says this is your first layout... so, you are making spline roadbed and hand laying N scale turnouts in your first layout??!! wondering what will you be doing when you reach your fifth layout, hand lay T scale tracks, may be... Wonderful progress and very impressive... keep up the good work... I like the idea of "underground" staging (may be you can model a small "tube" station as well - bet it will be fun). Only thing is being able to reach the trains if there is a trouble - if you have a plan for that - I think you're all set... Looking forward to more pics...
As you have been doing, I also am learning how to hand-build turnouts. I considered the issue you mention above, and concluded that having the points centered is probably best. That's because when the throw bar moves laterally, there will be a tendancy for the points to "twist", stressing the solder joint. The more the points are shifted, the more stress. If the neutral, unstressed position of the points is in the center, the shift in either direction is minimized. Points will have to be held against one or the other stock rail using a switch machine or manual throw, in any case. MH
Thanks Nimo! Actually I had trains as a kid, a LIONEL set (basic circle) and HO and maybe O scale circles around xmas trees. This is my 'Practice' railroad in preparation for my next railroad, which won't be until I retire and move to a bigger house in some 18 or so years. So my 'Practice' railroad has to satisfy me for many years. My intent is to do as much as possible on this railroad the same as I will on the next one and reuse as much as I can. Though I am sure the technology will change again by then. The hidden staging is accessable from underneath the benchwork. My benchwork is open grid, so I should be able to get my hands in there to rescue a loco. I will add some sort of guardrail to keep trains from falling overboard. Maybe I will make the town area removable, I haven't thought about that yet. I will give that some thought after I get the main and staging done. I hadn't heard about T track until you mentinioned it. I will have to do a google search and learn more. More photos after the weekend. Thanks for looking, Michael
Thanks MH! Good luck with your hand built turnouts. It is fun, isn't it? Thanks for the confirmation. Thanks for looking, Michael
New Layout - Proto-Freelanced UP&GN It's been I while since I posted. There have been lots of changes. I managed to claim more of my train room for use for Trains. The wife isn't too happy about my space grab, but I think she is getting used to it. The old layout was torn down a few weeks ago. With more space comes a new track plan. I've included the new track plan, 127 inch by 105 inch. The hidden staging (passenger trains) will be accessible with removable sections and an access holes, three of them. The right side hidden track will also have a removable top which will be a road with city flats along the back drop. The hidden curved section has a minimum radius of 16 inches; the exposed minimum radius is approximately 19 inch with a max radius of approximately 21 inches. The narrow portions are 30 inches deep, the left turnaround section is 43 inches deep and the right turnaround is 48 inches deep, the floor height to the lowest track is 46 inches and to the highest is 50 inches. There will be about 3 inches of clearance at the overpasses with a 2% grade. I do have access to the sides of the turnaround areas. I know the hidden track at both ends is a bit close to the edge of the fascia, but it will be hidden and there is enough room for the trains. There will be access holes in the fascia. The yard is strictly for freight. The grey structure in the center is a station, there will be other small stations in various other locations. There is an interchange between two railroads located by the crossover. I will be proto-freelancing using a mix of Great Northern and UP during the transition era. I am still researching a location, but I read today that both UP & GN had track in Spokane Washington. See my post on my Latest Addition to my small fleet: Great Northern. Track Plan: Bench construction will be large shelf brackets and foam, like Hytec used on his Saucier Central. Benchwork and framing started: More to come. Thanks for looking, Michael
Continued: I did most of this work over a long 5 day weekend. I used large 19" x 13" angle brackets from Home Depot. The are fastened to the studs. On top of the angle brackets I used 1" x 2"s with a cross brace to add lateral stability, probably not needed once the foam is glued on. Then I attached the fascia: The backdrop is just sitting there for now. More to come. Thanks for looking! Michael
Continued: Another shot of the fascia being installed: After this I stopped taking pictures during construction, so the remainder of the pictures are after the fact. This picture shows how I attached the fascia to the cross member 1x2s. Just a simple L bracket with one screw connecting it to the 1x2 to allow it to pivot and align with the curve of the fascia. I have to go back and add a second screw. To save on foam board, that stuff is not cheap, I cut and glued 2 inch foam board spacers on top of the 1x2s and toped that with 2 inches of foam board, then a 3/4 inch foam board which will be where I lay the track and allow for easy elevation to the raised section. This picture shows one of the access holes and the 3 layers of foam, the section closest the fascia is 4.75 inches thick to allow for cutaways for a river or two: This shot shows how I plan to install my servos for the turnouts. I printed the track plan 1 to 1 size on 100 lb card stock and placed it on top of the 4 inches of foam, before I placed the final 3/4 inch foam, in order to locate my turnouts. After marking the turnouts I used a hot knife that I purchased from Harbor Freight to cut the holes. It is smelly and puts off some bad fumes, but it gets the job done. I plan on mounting the servo on a piece of masonite and then glueing it to the foam at the top of the hole. That way my piano wire to actuate the turnout will only be a little over an inch long. More to come: Thanks for looking, Michael
Continued: After laying out the track plan onto the 3/4 inch layer of foam I punched holes along the track center line, and then I started laying down the homabed. I use the 60 degree profile homabed. I am only going to do the outside perimeter for now so that I can get some trains running for a change. I used caulk and pins to hold the homabed in place until the caulk dried. This picture shows that I got carried away and started putting down the inside track. I remembered that I was only to do the outside and stopped myself here. The foam board below the layout is for the raised section on the left. I have already cut it to fit, but it has to wait until the lower areas are complete. More to come! Thanks for looking, Michael
Continued: Okay, wrapping it up for now. I temporarily added the ramp to the raised level to see how it will look: It is a little close, I will have to do some adjusting/carving: This section above and below, will have a road going across/above the tracks on the curve. The road will turn and go along the wall on top of the hidden section shown below. It will represent my downtown area with a road, flats for building and rail-scene backdrops by Detail Associates. Where the risers stop in the above picture will be the location of one of two overpasses. From further away: And further still: Thats all for now. Next up sanding the homabed, followed by painting the homabed to seal it and then I start laying hand laid turnouts and hand laid track: Thanks for looking, Michael
Just a quick update from my "Train Day" yesterday. That is what we call it at home when I have a day reserved to work in the train room. No pictures to show, but I installed power to my layout. I have a heavy duty cord coming from the wall outlet into a wall switch mounted in a switch box; from there it goes to a four receptacle outlet in an outlet box. Everything is attached to the fascia, the wires are held close to the fascia with cable ties. The power cable for my NCE PowerCab is connected and positioned near the center of the layout waiting for the PCP to be installed. The wall switch I used is the lighted type. I wish however that it worked in reverse. The switch is mounted where I cannot see it, it would be nice if it would light up when it is turned on, that way I might be able to see that I have left the layout power on when the train room lights are turned off. I guess there is no way to change this functionality. I could install a small lamp under there. I guess if I see the glow from the switch I know the power is off. Next up I plan to put the second coat of gray paint on my homabed roadbed and hope to lay my first hand laid FastTracks turnout on my layout, get the servo installed and have it functional. If it happens it will be my gold spike moment for my new pike. Michael
The only other thing I might suggest is swapping the locations of 9 & 10. That way you dont have to get an engine out of the service track to get to a loco that is already to go.
cwwrman, Thanks for the suggestion, but I no longer have this layout. See page 7 for the start of my new layout. Thanks, Michael
Vaccam, This was a fascinating post to read at one time start to finish...your original track plan in the beautifully done "grand piano" furniture...the modified plan with the hidden staging and exceptional spline-work and sub-roadbed...and now the 'bulbing L-shape" with foam board and Woodland Scenics (I believe...) risers. It was more powerful than watching the transformation of a caterpillar into a cocoon and then butterfly. As I was watching the progress of the stand-alone w/ hidden staging layout, and seeing the great work you were putting in to it, I couldn't help but think "man...that hidden staging is going to be a pain to access from underneath to set up trains and teardown trains". But...avast!...you transmogrified past that to your current plan...which also shows great workmanship! I will enjoy seeing the progress on this layout! Smooth rails!
Wow, thanks for the Kudos Ziggy! I am glad you enjoyed it. I hope I will not disappoint from here on, seeing how I am entering uncharted territory. I hope to start laying track tomorrow, starting with one of my FastTrack turnouts and then hand laying one of the sidings. I thought the siding would be a good pace to start in case it does not turn out too well. Plus, that siding will be my programming track, so it will be good getting that done. Right now I am having trouble finding 16 gauge solid copper wire locally. I hope to find some tomorrow at a local electronics supply store. Thanks again for looking and the kind words. Michael
Here are a few photos from last week's work installing the main electrical switch and outlet for the layout. See a few posts earlier for the narrative (#74). From the wall outlet to the switch: From the switch to the layout's outlet, with the PowerCab's power supply plugged in: And a photo from yesterday showing the installation of the NCE PowerCab's PCB and the NCE CP6. Also shown in the shot above is a slightly failed attempt to use wall anchors to allow for screws to be used with foamboard. The foamboard isn't strong enough to resist the screw being screwed into them, so the anchor gets imbedded deeper into the foam. It is still held secure, so the CP6 will remain that way. I think I will try the plastic type of anchor, but I will first chop off the sealed point and pre-install the screws. This is the metal anchor used in the above picture. They were originally used to secure the large angle brackets to the studs in the walls. More to come. Michael
More updates from last night "Train Day" and over the weekend. I started installing my first FastTracks turnout. I planned to have that completed last night, but as you will see I did not get it done. Here is the location for the turnout. It leads to the interchange siding which is below the double track portion on the left leg of the shelf layout. This branch will also be my programming track (see post #69). One note on the track plan, I uploaded the wrong track plan, there should be three tracks in the staging area at the top of the left leg of the shelf. This shows the preparation of the homabed roadbed. I used joint compound to fill in the spaces that were missing homabed so that there would be a smooth solid surface for the turnout. The little pin marks the exact location of the hole in the throw bar. I first printed out the track plan for this section and laid it over the homabed to pinpoint that location. This photo shows turnout temporarily in place with the pin going through the throw bar. It is just sitting there and not lined up correctly at this point. I have to confirm what the throw bar is supposed to look like when I am finished. Are the two longer crossties supposed to remain there, should the throw bar extend on both sides, or just one? If anyone has any incite please share. More to come. Michael
