My new (first) layout the MPRR

Vaccam Apr 9, 2010

  1. Vaccam

    Vaccam TrainBoard Member

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    This will be my first attempt at building an N scale model railroad. I started an HO layout many years ago, but did not get to far. I am hoping things will be different this time.

    I've named my railroad the MPRR, which stands for My Practice RailRoad. I had been designing a rather complex (for the size) 68 inch by 45 inch layout. I had a hard time settling on a layout because I wanted to include as much as possible yet keep the curve radius as large as possible so that passenger trains would look somewhat realistic. We plan on moving in a year or so and I started thinking with the complexity I was adding I would never finish before we move. Therefore, I decided employ the KISS principle, scaled back my plans and create the MPRR which is now 72 inch by 42 inch.

    I have included many of the features that I would like to have when I have more room, Union Pacific locomotives and cars, steam/diesel transitional era, DCC, masonite spline roadbed, masonite fascia, micro engineering code 55 flex track, hand laid turnouts (#6) using FastTracks jigs, double main line with large curves, a river with bridges, a fair sized yard, two tunnels, and a partial fixed car float. Minimum radius is 16 inch and maximum radius of 20 inches. Again, this is more for practice than anything else.

    The MPRR is located somewhere near San Francisco, because I know of a car float in the area and I like the mountains with the golden grass and sparse trees as well as the UP history.

    So hear is my layout.

    [​IMG]

    The numbered items:
    1. Yard Office
    2. Engine House
    3. Yard Lead
    4. Some small industry
    5. Farm House
    6. Car Float (Partial and fixed)
    7. Caboose track
    8. RIP track
    9. Loco Service
    10. Ready Track
    11. Backdrop/scenic divide.

    Some benchwork photos:

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  2. Vaccam

    Vaccam TrainBoard Member

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    And some photos as I start putting on the masonite fascia. I hoped to be able to use staples as Bob (Powersteamguy1790) suggested, but my staple gun would not go through the masonite, then screws, but I did not like the results. I’ve settled with using liquid nails and clamps.

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    I’ve never tried my hand at scenery, so I will be trying to put a lot of what I’ve learned on trainboard to good use.

    I only have one n scale locomotive, a UP EMD E9A from Kato, and no cars at this time. I have a Digitrax decoder waiting to go in it.

    More to come.

    Thanks,

    Michael
     
  3. Mark Watson

    Mark Watson TrainBoard Member

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    Hi Michael,

    Looks great! I just have one suggestion for the track plan, which is to move the crossover near the yard exit before the exit turnout. This allows you direct access to the outside track with out requiring either a back-up move or a complete inside loop before reaching the yard.
    [​IMG]

    Other than that, I look forward to seeing your progress! :D
     
  4. Nick Lorusso

    Nick Lorusso TrainBoard Member

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    Hello Michael,
    I like what you have for the track plan. And I think Marks suggestion might help you out a little. Keep us posted.
     
  5. Avel

    Avel TrainBoard Member

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    You could also lengthen the yard lead.

    Only one engine!? You have some willpower!
    Liking the angled screw holes. Forgot what it's called. Looks nice!
     
  6. Powersteamguy1790

    Powersteamguy1790 Permanently dispatched

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    Michael:

    Have fun planning your new railroad empire.You've made a great start and the bench work frame looks super. If you have any questions, you know where to contact me.
     
  7. Vaccam

    Vaccam TrainBoard Member

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    Mark,

    Thanks I always enjoy seeing your input. Your suggestion sounds good to me. Here is my modified layout. Things are a bit tighter now but I think it will still fit.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Vaccam

    Vaccam TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks Nick, will do.
     
  9. Vaccam

    Vaccam TrainBoard Member

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    Avel,

    Thanks, yard lead is a bit longer now. See previous post.

    No will power, just trying to spread the budget around where I can.

    The angled screws are called pocket holes made with one of the Kraig Jigs. Here is a link: Pocket Hole Tools

    And here is the one that I used:
    [​IMG]
    Michael
     
  10. Vaccam

    Vaccam TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks Bob, I appreciate the offer.

    Here is a quick update photo on the fascia. I have to get more liquid nails. So far so good. After I do the other end the sides will be completed with two splices on each side. I will then clean up all the seams with wood putty then sand and primer before painting with satin black. I will be doing the legs as well, but probably not the bench work, which will not be visible. I have to replace the casters with locking ones, as well.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Fotheringill

    Fotheringill TrainBoard Member

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    Vaccam-

    Good start. Please come to my basement and do neat benchwork. It looks great.

    Might I suggest that you keep posting your progress and requests for suggestions and comment here at Trainboard. I have found that the feedback from very many is always better than the alternative.
     
  12. friscobob

    friscobob Staff Member

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    I was going to suggest the same thing, but Fotheringill beat me to it. I like the benchwork- looks nice & sturdy! Trackplan is compact, the whole thing should come together nicely.

    Any ideas on what you'll be using for a subroadbed (plywood, foam, foam/plywood, etc)?

    Please, keep us posted! And above all, HAVE FUN!
     
  13. Vaccam

    Vaccam TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks, Fotheringill and friscobob,

    I would love to come help, but I have quite a few things to do around here still. Maybe when I am through. :tb-biggrin:
    I do plan on posting regularly. I fully expect to need help along the way and I plan to rip out scenery and start over if I don't like what I create. I am sure the feedback will be very helpful.

    As for the sub-roadbed, I am using Masonite spline roadbed with cork on top, except in the yard where I will be using plywood. I purchased one sheet of 1/8 inch Masonite and had a cabinet maker rip it into 3/4 inch strips. He charge $20 which is cheaper than what it would have cost me to rent a table saw and all of the pieces are uniform thickness, which I doubt I would have been able to do. I still have all my fingers, too.

    I am having fun, when I can spare the time to work on it that is. Besides work, I am tiling our master bathroom walls and floors. When that is done I have several other projects to do to get our house ready to sell next year.

    BTW, I purchase my second piece of rolling stock today. It was kind of a sympathy at my LHS. A Backmann Great Northern Covered Hopper, $12. I was hoping to find something from UP, but my LHS does not stock any. They do not have much n scale stock at this time. The owner was very nice though. He told me to let him know what items I'd be looking for and he would get them on order.

    Thanks,

    Michael
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 22, 2010
  14. Vaccam

    Vaccam TrainBoard Member

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    I finally finished installing my fascia. I used 1/8" by 12" Masonite, fastened it with supper glue and clamps.

    Here are some photos:

    Making a splice:

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    Lots of clamps:

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  15. Vaccam

    Vaccam TrainBoard Member

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    I painted it with two coats of primer followed by two coats of satin black. I think it turned out pretty good.

    Here is the finished fascia:

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    You can see the splice a bit with the flash, but it is not noticable with normal room lighting.

    I can finally start putting in the spline subroadbed. You can see the Masonite strips in the lower right of the last picture.

    My wife also got me an NCE Power Cab, so hopefully I will be running trains soon. I still only have one engine and one car. Cork roadbed, Micro Engineering flex track and FastTrack turnouts are next.

    Michael
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 22, 2010
  16. JSL

    JSL TrainBoard Member

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    Looks great! At first I thought it was a grand piano.. ha ha. Keep us updated!

    JSL
     
  17. NotAClue

    NotAClue TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for posting this. I was looking at how I was going to curve hardboard (you call it masonite) for my backdrop. This is great :)

    Angie
     
  18. Vaccam

    Vaccam TrainBoard Member

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    JSL,

    Thanks, that was my thought as well. That is kind of what I am looking for. I wanted it to have a finished look.

    Michael
     
  19. Gats

    Gats TrainBoard Member

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    I think you have succeeded very well there. Looks great!
     
  20. Vaccam

    Vaccam TrainBoard Member

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    Angie,

    Glad I could help. The hardboard is pretty easy to work with, other than the dust when cuting and sanding. I had Home Depot cut a 4x8 sheet into 4 12" pieces. I could check the radius if you'd like.

    All I did was attach it centered on three of the supports with liquid nails and clamps, then, after the liquid nails had dried, I pushed the hardboard until it made contact with side supports and clamped it in place. I marked a line on the back of the hardboard 1" from the top as a guide. It is pretty easy to get miss-aligned when making the bend.

    For the splice I clamped a wider than needed piece of hardboard behind the attached hardboard, drew a vertical line where I wanted to cut and used my multi-tool to cut through both pieces of hardboard. This gave me a perfectly matched seam. Also, the two pieces that were cut from the attached harboard can be used for the backing of the splice. I used wood putty to fill the seam, but since the cut edge matched so well it did not take much putty.

    Good luck with yours,

    Michael
     

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