Thanks Michael but I think I have it now. The minimum 90 degree radius is 270mm (about 11"). It was the 'framing' I was concerned about. I'd seen others say to put something heavy with the same radius resting on it and let it sag! I thought there might be a better way than that and you came up trumps, and just at the right time as the baseboards are just being sealed prior to fitting the backdrops. I've got two 90 degree corners and the other is over 12" so all should be ok now. Thanks again. Angie
I started installing the risers for my spline subroadbed. I decided to attach them with liquid nails. I found it to be easier to make adjustments and get them exactly where I want them and level. The process was quick and easy, but I ran out of wood. I started by cutting 1x2s at 9 inches, then made a mark at 6 and 1/8 inch. This brought the top of the riser 5/8 inch below the top of the fascia. I will attach cross member level with the top of the risers. The 3/4 inch splines will bring the top of the rails about a 1/2 inch above the fascia. The scenery at the fascia will be 5/8 inch bellow the top of the fascia. The track will be flat except for the inside track were the single bridge is located, which will be slightly elevated. I have not decided how high yet. Here are some pictures: Shows the line at 6 and 1/8 inch, which was just for reference and the liquid nails. Leveling the riser. Looks level. Confirming the height of the riser. The clamped risers did have a tendency to move a little, so I had to go back and recheck until they dried. More to follow. Michael
More photos. Confirming that the risers are level with each other. Looking good. Close up of clamped risers. Clamped risers. More after I get some more wood. Michael
You are making good progress! It looks like you could sell that or put it in a museum, very professional looking benchwork! Can't wait to see more.
Thanks SD90! I am trying. I think this is the easy part. I have never done any scenery, so I am hoping that turns out well, too. I'll try to apply what I have learned from all of these great modelers here on Trainboard. Thanks, Michael
Frankly, bench work is the easy part. You're doing a great job. Looks like you're having fun too! That's the spirit!
Progress updates I started working on my spline subroadbed. Here are some pictures: Lots of clamps needed. Inner loop. Six of seven layers completed. I used an aluminum channel bar to help keep the spline straight in the above and below pictures. More to come. Michael
More Spline subroadbed pictures: Here is how I decided to add the sidings. I used the outer spline of the main as the middle spline of the sidding. The sidding will get 3 short splines on either side of the center spline. The splines will be merged into the main eventually. I'll need to use my Stanley SurForm to get rid of all those glue bumps. I will also make sure the splines are level so that I do not have super elevated track where it should not be. I used 8 pieces of spline to ensure that my outer layer was the correct distance from the inner spline. More to come. Michael
More pictures: This side of the track has the two main tracks a bit further appart. Birds-eye view: Thats all for now. Thanks, Michael
Thanks Mark. I am having fun so far. Can't wait to get the splines done so that I can move on to laying some cork and track. I am enjoying watching your progress as well. Looking forward to seeing that Canyon come together. Michael
Looking great! I think the spline roadbed is the way to go, it just flows some nice. Keep the updates coming. JSL
Thanks JSL, The spline roadbed is really easy to work with, too. It can be a bit messy, but as long as you use a drop cloth it is not too bad. I find it pretty easy to sand too, but the glue can be a bit stubborn. The one thing I really like about spline is you can see what the track will look like before you have to commit. Michael
For dealing with the glue, you may want to get either a paint scraper, or a card scraper. The card scraper is better for it than a paint scraper, but you have to sharpen the card scraper yourself, wherease you can buy replacement paint scraper blades easily. Sharpening one can be done with a mill file, vise and quality screwdriver, plus a bit of practice. You can find card scrapers at any woodworking supply store, and they aren't expensive. They are very, very useful. If you're doing the work in that room, you're a much neater fellow than I!! Looking really good. I'm curious, why did you go with open grid, risers and spline construction?
BikerDad, Thanks for the info on the paint and card scrappers, I will have to look for one. I started with open grid and foam, but decided I wanted to use spline. Instead of scraping the open grid I put cross members on top. I also wanted to increase the size slightly and the cross members allowed me to do that. I am using this as a practice railroad, so it will have features that are probably unnecessary in such a small layout. I have done most of the work in that room. I do have a very small tool room attached to that room where I do most of my wood cutting. Drop cloths come in handy. Thanks! Michael
Mark, Thanks for asking. Yes I finally have an update. I finished the spline and just started putting down the tape for the supper-elevated curves. It took me forever to get all of the splines level. My mistake was using a Stanely SureFoam tool to try to flatten out the splines. This was taking forever. I finally pulled out my block plane and it made quick work of leveling all of the splines yesterday afternoon. I checked all the splines with my level, basically one inch at a time. Here are some photos. I've only put down one layer of tape at this point. More to come during the week. My bathroom and bedroom projects are all done, so nothing should get in my way. I have the cork which I am going to start cutting into strips and I have all of my micro-engineering code 55 switches and code 55 flex track for the entire layout including the yard. 17 switches in all. This first one is a little blurry but shows the splines all nice and even and level. Thats all for now. I should have more to post in the next few days. Thanks, Michael
