DCC.....Which brand???

I know you were kidding Howie But please... GET A MOVE ON!!!! PICK ONE!!! BUY IT!!! SET IT UP!!!! I can't wait to read your joyful, jubilent, "this is so awesome" posts!!! Pete Plus, then you can help others get started! And tell us all the cool things about your system!

 

Okay, okay, Pete......

Don't rush me. I'm sorry to say that I have a way to go before I "set anything up".

I've had HO trains running on 4X8 plywood
in the past. I made some feeble attemts at
scenery but they were really toy trains.

My basement is/was a cellar....chock full of
the debris of years of saving junk that I surely
would use.......one of these days. I started by
cleaning the place out, painting the floor and
adding some shop lights. In my readings on
layouts......I subscribe to MR and I have some
other articles........I decided that it would be best to put up a ceiling. It need not be fancy
but it would add more light and keep the layout a bit cleaner. And it would look a lot better too.

There was some electrical work to be done too.
I want to be able to shut off the lights but still have power to run trains and have some
simulated night light, maybe blue lights .....
with a moon. That can be done later.

My next task will be to construct a framework
using L beams. That's where I'm at.

Howie

 

Sounds great Howie! So...do you have a layout plan? Share, share, share! Don't forget to take pictures as you go. Have fun, Pete

 

I think that that will be the most difficult part
of the whole process since I don't own a bowling alley or a gymnasium.
I guess I have more room than most modelmakers but.......is it ever enough? The
general dimensions are 11X13 with a little extra section at one end.

I grew up in Queens, New York. In the town of Woodside the mainline of the Long Island Railroad joins with the Port Washington branch
to form 6 tracks. From there it makes a long left turn and passes through the Sunnyside Yard at the end of which are several tunnels
that go below the East River into Manhattan
and then crosstown to Penn Station.

These things would be nice to model.......
with my own modifications to fit everything in.
There will also be a small seaside community,
with a fish packing plant, some small boats,
and a swing bridge like the one in Mystic Ct.

The rail lines would be divided into 3 divisions..........a commuter/passenger line,
a small freight line to serve whatever industries I decide to include, and the big
freight line that would have to have the
maximum curves in order to accomodate large
locomotives. The time frame would be the 50's.

These lines would run on 4 levels..........
a subway level, main level for commuter trains,
2nd level for freight and 3rd level that would
have the large freight which would not interconnect with the others, at least not initially. The layout would be rectangular with
a walkway in the middle......sort of a "U".

We'll see..........

 

Just last week I ordered Digitrax's Chief II (radio), some decoders, and some accessories for my plunge into DCC. I have been debating the various systems for months and decided it was time to do something...even if it was wrong (but I don't think that it is). Now that I have it ordered it should be easier to justify the expense and convince myself that I did the right thing....

Anyway I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of DCC.

 

Rett, way to go!! You will love the Digitrax because it does everything, and you will never be limited by it. You will also enjoy DCC even more than you imagine! I remember the first time I wired in a reverse loop detector. Took all of maybe 2 minutes to solder the 4 wires to the rails, then I ran a train through...Wow!! There were no switches to flip. The train just kept going without a hitch. It just seemed like magic!! DCC rocks! Now, a message for Howie...Your layout sounds like it is going to be awesome!! It also sounds like a huge undertaking! 4 levels, multi divisons. From your posts I get the feeling maybe you are a perfectionist? So...just make sure you don't want things to be so perfect you never complete them (or even start them!). I am also a perfectionist, and must always force myself to get started and complete something (perfectionists tend to be procrastinators). So, just a healthy reminder to bite off small pieces at a time, and remember: the main thing is to always be DOING something! Have fun! Pete

 

I don't think that I'm a perfectionist but I would like to build a layout that runs well, ie.
good wiring, good soldered connections and well-laid track.
Although I talk about 4 levels the lowest......
or subway level would be for a short subway line and for hiding trains. Oddly, there is an
elevated subway line that has a station over the LIRR tracks at Woodside. I didn't plan to include this in my layout.
Another thought........there will be places where one line will need to cross another and
then I will need to consider clearances. I want
to avoid steep hills, so keeping lines on different levels will help, even though the
difference may be only an inch or two.
The last, or upper level would be nothing more than an oval on which to run large locomotives with the idea of maybe incorpor-
ating it into the layout later on. I really don't think this layout will be awesome.
Interestingly, the New Haven Railroad also
runs through Woodside although the line is now one track and little used. It travels from Connecticut through The Bronx, crosses the Hellgate Bridge and travels along a viaduct
through Astoria. As it enters Woodside it runs along an embankment which becomes a cut. 8
blocks from Woodside station there is an avenue that crosses this cut and above the avenue runs the elevated subway line.

My fear is that I will come up with a brilliant idea after it's too late but I intend to procede
with my plans and hope everything will work out. I agree with you...........I should get some track down, install DCC and keep working.


RF462

 

Howie, I'm quite sure your layout will be awesome. Let me recommend another book (if you haven't read it already). "Track Planning for Realistic Operation" 3rd edition by John Armstrong. (Kalmbach Books). What a great book! I learned so much about railroading from reading this book. It tells you how (and why) the real railroads do it, then how best to implement those things in the limited amount of space we modelers have. Tons of cool info, like why do they call the "Team Track" the Team Track? Perhaps you assumed the RIP track meant "Rest In Peace"! One of my favorites comes in the very first chapter. They describe a manuever called the "Flying Switch". A super risky prototype practice where crews (if not careful) would end up derailing a locomotive just to save some time trying to get a car into a facing point spur!! This is a highly imformative book I think everyone will enjoy. Pete

 

I too am about to go DCC. I've been debating NCE vs Lenz. Not too keen on Digitrax - there do seem to be some oddities with it. I've now pretty much decided on Lenz, but mainy because in the UK it is a lot cheaper to get started with, and there are local dealers and support for it. They also seem to have a very good 'replacement when broke' policy; but that may not be the same in other countries.

Another country point is radio throttles. Legal frequencies aren't the same internationally (though I believe Europe has managed to agree within itself), so if that is something you are thinking of you would be best sticking with a make that has local representation and produces for that market.

Incidentally, as an electrical controls engineer I have no problem with designing and building complex cab control panels for my trainsets. But I am really looking forward to what DCC is going to do in avoiding that hassle and allowing me to operate the engines rather than the track.

 

I use CVP Easy Dcc and I love it! I have the 4 digit address and wireless throttle. I have owned this system for 2 years but just recentley got it going. I am at the point of layout construction where I needed to wire and run some trains. I am in the process of installing decoders which I enjoy very much . Currently I have 7 engines with decoders installed and all run great on my test oval. I am sure all DCC systems run well but I made my choice when I called CVP for advice. The man who answerd the phone (Keith) turned out to be one of the designers of the system. After about 20 minutes of conversation with Keith I was sold on the ease of use of their product over others I was considering. Not to mention I would rather talk to the designer than an operator when I have questions. Whatever system you choose I am sure you will be happy with DCC!

 

I use CVP Easy Dcc and I love it! I have the 4 digit address and wireless throttle. I have owned this system for 2 years but just recentley got it going. I am at the point of layout construction where I needed to wire and run some trains. I am in the process of installing decoders which I enjoy very much . Currently I have 7 engines with decoders installed and all run great on my test oval. I am sure all DCC systems run well but I made my choice when I called CVP for advice. The man who answerd the phone (Keith) turned out to be one of the designers of the system. After about 20 minutes of conversation with Keith I was sold on the ease of use of their product over others I was considering. Not to mention I would rather talk to the designer than an operator when I have questions. Whatever system you choose I am sure you will be happy with DCC!

 

That's great Dale. Easy DCC is one of the systems I'm considering.
Please tell me what kind of soldering equipment you used to install those decoders.
I would love to buy the tweezer type but they
cost $420. I imagine a 100 watt soldering
gun would be sufficient for most jobs on a layout.

RF462

 

I use an adjustable wattage soldering station that I picked up for around 50 bucks. I used to be in RC car racing and can tell you from experience that ungar and weller both make decent irons. I would stay away from the 100 watt guns for decoder installation. You would be much better off with an adjustable wattage station, but if there too pricey you could get by with a 25 watt soldering pencil made by weller and sold at most sears stores. Hope this helps, Dale.

 

I agree with the go with a lower wattage soldering iron, 100 watts could create problems for you.

 

For soldering small wiring, like decoder stuff, 15W would do, but you need a bit more for general layout work such as soldering to track or other heavier sections. For many years I've had a temperature controlled (automatic) 50W iron which covers all these needs. It has a thermostat near the tip to keep a near constant temperature. Having the power means it warms up fast, but it can be left on for long periods (overnight on one occasion ) without cooking everything.

These do cost a bit more than a standard iron, but it takes all the bother out of trying to get the heat right.

Whatever you get, make sure you buy a few different shape and size tips for it - my only regret is not having a 'pencil point' one for very fine work.

 

Thank you, all......

The message seems to be.......go with a unit
that has adjustable wattage from say, 15
to 50 Watts and have a few various size tips.

Pete: The ceiling is as finished as I'm going to make it for the time being. The area above
the layout is completely covered with sheetrock
and just needs taping. I'll do that by this weekend. My next step is to get the lumber for the table. The plan is for a table about 12 feet in length and about 4 feet wide. It will stand next to a wall. I will have a walkway between for access. I'll put posters of mid-town Manhattan on the wall and factory buildings from kits along the edge of the table
in the same arrangement as the prototype.
There will be a continuous loop of track so that I can run trains even before I have scenery. This plan will get me started.

RF 462..........Howard

Manhattan

 

I just have a few comments. I just finished installing NCE system. I like like the control handle and the fact that I can control multiple consists with one throttle. The system will allow you to control 6 consists, with one "bat handle" throttle. But realisitically most people will have problems handling more than two.

What I did for my layout was to buy two additional throttles for my two sons. These throttles have the round knob and are not that hard to use. You might want to consider buying an easy to use extra throttle no matter what system you buy.

I won't get into the debate over who has the best system, who has been around longer etc. Just make sure you get a system that conforms to the NMRA DCC standards. You can go to the NMRA website and find out what systems conform to their standards. Also to make things easy for yourself, find out what is popular in your area. I went with NCE because the club I belong too also uses NCE. Therefore, if you have a problem or a glitch, someone there probably has had the same problem or can help you correct it. Believe me there are still plenty of glitches out there.

One thing I can almost guarantee. Once you buy a DCC system, you will find that you will be subjecting yourself to a bunch of new electronic terms, such as diodes, resisters, LEDS, volts, Ohms and watts. Don't be intimidated by them. You will also find yourself sharpening up your soldering skills.

One last comment, the voltage of some DCC systems vary. NCE System runs about 14v DC, but I believe NMRA only specified a range of 12-18v DC. The average user who buys average decoders probably won't ever have any problems with this voltage, but there is one costly exception. I got this information from Tony's Train Exchange website. Apparently, if you have the Atlas System, you may end up frying any Soundtraxx decoder you have. There is no one really to blame, because both manufacturers conform to the NMRA standards. The problem is that the Atlas System has a starting voltage of 16-18v DC, while Soundtraxx recommends that the starting voltage for their decoder be substantially less. There are fixes for this involving some resistors. So if you have or are considering buying a Soundtraxx decoder and have an Atlas System, go to Tony's Train Exchange website to read up about the fix.

Anyway welcome to the world of DCC. If you need information just do a search or just ask. On my website, I posted some of my experiences with DCC and I am also connected to the DCC webring, which links to other DCC websites.

 

Thanks A.J.
Dale.......I bought a 25 watt soldering iron from Radio Shack........one with a long thin
point. It should be adequate for installing
decoders and making up busses.

 

Hi AJ......,
I have been studying the guide to DCC and it explains that NCE and System One have many interchangeable components....specifically the cab (hand control device). I like the small cab with the large knob. (System One). It can only run trains, it doesn't do anything else but that's fine. It would serve as an extra cab.

[ 23 December 2001: Message edited by: Railfan462 ]