Snot will clean up with water. As far as 'chemicals'...I havent tried any. Possibly 70% rubbing alcohol? Not sure I would want water anywhere near my locomotive...to much electrical stuff that doesnt react well with water. Once applied to a driver and 'set'...I just use a #11 xacto on the spinning driver to remove it all. It does get 'hard' and starting the removal process can be fun...but it does all come off. JMO :tb-cool: .
Water when still wet. I am inquiring about after it has dried. I need to redo a few wheels that were overdone and don't trust myself to get the stuff off with an Exacto.
I had to redo several wheels until I got better at the application process. I used an exacto (no electrical power to the engine) and made one perpendicular "slice" to the metal wheel. Then I turned the blade to a shallow angle and basically just peeled it off. The bearings on the 2-6-6-2 don't really keep the axles still enough to do it like turning a lathe, so I just carefully work around the rods. It takes a little care, but not complicated. Actually the slop in the axles is what made application a bit of a challenge for this loco. Fortunately when you paint just the right amount of BFS on the wheel with a flat toothpick it will eventually smooth itself out. Our NTrak club has a big show coming up the next two weekends and a lot of the guys are very anxious to see how my shelf queen performs. I'm confident that BFS sales are going to climb
Wow, thanks for the good testing and feedback. Me thinks it is time to order a bottle of BFS. Regarding the 2-6-6-2: Hardwirig it to a 6-wheel tender of the LL 2-8-8-2 really works wonders to eliminate any electrical issues. I have converted my 2-6-6-2 like this and it no longer stalls for electrical reasons. And this is exactly what the Milwaukee did to their N-class 2-6-6-2: Look at the size of the tender ) BFS sounds like the perfect prodcut to improve the 2-8-8-2 and 2-6-6-2s.... Cheers Dirk
Bob, nothing, really. The LL 2-8-8-2 tender just has two more axles for pickup and I find the design of the pickup to be extremely robust and reliable. The B-Mann tender is good, but I had more problems with the engine stalling prior to the tender "swap". The biggest impact could have been replacing the wipers on the drawbar with wires, so that alone might help even if the original tender remains behind the engine. But as I want to model a Milwaukee N-1 I needed to add a huge 6-axle oil tender anyway The B-Mann tender is scheduled to be used in a future conversion (probably for a RR 4-6-2), so it will have a useful afterlife.... Cheers Dirk
Bob, I thought the B-Mann USRA long is a 4-axle tender? Only the Vanderbuild (which I already have for another project) has 6 axles... And I had the LL 6-axles tenders lying around, as I convert the 2-8-8-2 to much shorter NP-type 4-axle tenders.... Like this: Cheers Dirk
Gosh, $19.95? www.bullfrogsnot.com is now live, with installation pics, and a place to add your blog comments, should you so desire. Bill
The "application" section of your new web page is perfect. Thanks again for the sample, glad I could be part of your testimonials! I hope you do well with this product.
ROFLMAO!! I get this mental image of a guy sitting in the desert in T-shirt, overalls, and a striped Engineer's hat, holding a HUGE bullfrog in one hand, and a Q-Tip in the other. :tb-biggrin::tb-biggrin::tb-biggrin:
No BULLFROGs are harmed in the making of this product. They all live happily ever after. http://www.bullfrogsnot.com/pages/faqs.html
