On my test track, shown above, I have some curves inside of the 10 1/2" radius curves. Not sure what they are now? Three are red and one is black inside of the 2 left red ones. I don't remember any real problems..... ... using ME code 55 flex track and this was the first time I've used it or laid track on a roadbed. Some don't like it saying it is hard to curve but .... ... using a block like above it is actually quite easy to curve and it pretty much holds the curve while you are fastening it to the road bed as seen in the video above. I use the block one final time after caulking the track down and right before holding it down with weight or pins. More on building the test track here... http://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/UP Canyon Division/UP Canyon Division-Index.html Sumner
@Sumner One day I'll have to get one of the tools to curve the Atlas 80 code track, very nice, and thanks! Alright, has anyone else has such organized wiring when testing something you have already done in the past but wasn't exactly sure how you did it? So I tested it above the layout before I started dropping switch/turn out wires. The DCC track joiners with wires will also be tested but shouldn't be a problem, I hope. Man, what a mess. I should try to draw a schematic, but not sure if I know how? Someone talented in this area is more than welcome too. And just a question any idea why the #6 solenoid appears to be so much quieter? Or at least this one was? I just hope it ends up a lot better underneath since I got the adhesive clips? And then I have to route it out of base #1 into small orange terminal block, out with the male/female connector, the reverse on base#2 and pray it all works? And for DCC as well as the AC switches. What could possibly go wrong I thought the Orange connectors would be a little smaller, but they will work, me thinks. Takes extra stuff when you don't want to solder like me Me no solder!
Well I did order all the correct electrical parts to wire up my DCC & AC to connect base A to base B, and it should work fine if I take my time. Testing does show it works correctly at least for the AC switches/turn outs to be thrown. However I was just a tiny bit optimistic that I could get this done in one weekend when posting Weekend Modeling Plans. I won't even be close to getting it done Here is the test though that works. It's important for me to test things above the layout before dropping wires and wiring it all up underneath. Even with small 2'x4", it's a pain. And hopefully they both will end up much cleaner in the end. Instead of the spaghetti I have one base A. Will I am also going to clean up. Or that's the plan?
Alright, so I have a question in case I decide to do this later? If I want to make a yard with the Smooth it, or even the 2mm stuff I get at Hobby Lobby, do I bring the height up to the roadbed where the switches are? My understanding is yards don't have roadbed, but are smoother for locomotives engineers and crew to walk around the yard. Is this true. I want to make it, in the future, where the ties and the surrounding area are say Smooth It and all you see are the rails? I hope I am explaining what I want to do correctly? This is the area: Like he did here on the right.
@in2tech Moose no know what "Smooth It" is. Don't bury the ties. Just raise the yard ground level to match the height of you yard road bed. Moose did this using foam sheets.
https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/video/SmoothIt Basically it's overpriced plaster of paris...
Oh! Definitely don't use that! Use something like foam sheet that is easy to install, and easy to cut if need be as well. Plaster just sounds messy...
Thanks everyone. I will use the 2mm stuff first as it looks and sounds way easier to use. As you can see mine will be tiny.
I had similar issues - I really like the look of the Kato Unitram track but is only double tracks and limited turns, shapes, etc. I had a few scraps of wall sheathing (like this stuff: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-0-5...oard-Insulation-with-Sound-Barrier/1000318607) and I cut around my roadbed and then dropped it in the cutout. It works pretty well with the Unitrack, not sure how tall your roadbed and track sits up. Would be really easy to sand/shape edges and ballast around though. Seen plenty of YT vids of guys pouring over their tracking. Just thinking about doing that makes me itchy.
I'll probably get some of the 2mm stuff or foam board to see if it works, since my area is so small? We will see.
I had a huge supply of Hydrocal, so have not purchased any in ages. Is that brand still available? I never had any troubles with it. Easy to use.
I actually really like Smooth It and the Hydrocal stuff. Small layout, but I don't use much so no need for large amount of it, so far! Still learning though, so there is that.
Working on organization and cleaning up the wiring as well as connecting base A & B electrical/electronics together. What a mess the first go round! Hope it is better when I am done? This is gonna take me longer then I thought. Trying to just use one Just Plug Light Hub, make sure wires each, or if I can splice wires, need another hub, etc... I sure hope not!
Somebody pulled the wire too hard instead of pulling the white plug they are suppose to pull. Um, that was me, meaning I broke an LED Just Plug light, and here is the picture. What is that tiny circuit board. a resistor? It's at the very end of the White Plug wire! Very hard to see, but it is a solder, and you know me, me no solder Just wondering what the little circuit board is?