With your continuing water seepage problem, have you looked at using something like this?H Masonry Waterproofer It is supposed to seal from the inside and form a barrier against moisture penetrating masonry walls. This kind of product is what a lot of the DIY/ repair show hosts use when doing a renovation of a basement area.
Good Day, Another solution to help would be Behr water repellant paint. It willl hold back about 8 psi of water trying to come through your basement wall. (Behr is from Home Depot, I'm sure other stores have same such paints). John
If you look at the photos, that 'blue' colored wall was suppose to be some of the sealant paint (no idea of make) that was applied 25+ year ago. It didn't do squat and has peeled off. The only wall that will be visible is that same wall, but only the above grade portion. The lower four feet will be enclosed with air floe to the rest of the basement as will the far short wall, but that will be floor to ceiling covered. I finished the 'prep' work of this area and will start with the PT footers shortly.
Regarding the small radius turns, it appears that I will be able to widen those 'end' sections by six inches from preliminary 'reach' tests depending on layout height. I'm figuring 4' 3" for a height as of now.
You asked, "What is wrong". Nothing really. The plan looks good but I have some concerns. Now, this isn't about my layout but since I have nothing else to compare to. Allow me to share the fun I'm having. My layout occupies the squared space of 9.5' X 9.5', less then 100 square feet and resides in a tin (not ten but tin) metal shed. Humidity isn't that much of a concern but it can be at times. My minimum radius on the main line is 16 inches. The largest radus on two curves sports a 24 inch radius. I'm with others who have abdicated larger radius curves. You have a fine plan and plenty of space to widen the curves. As far as having a run through yard one over the top of the other...I would rethink that. Perhaps a curved run through as opposed to straight. This whould allow you more linear feet to work with and did I mention longer trains. Grin! Your plan looks good and I wish you well with it.
You are referring to the half-a$$ passenger station with the two sidings? I beleive I mentioned, I originally forgot about that when I drew up the original plan. I do have some reservations (no pun intended) about this working.
Room is finished Finally. Not the happiest with it, but it is done. I didn't want a suspended ceiling (before anyone asks) due to lack of clearance with the furnace ducts. So I engineered my version of a 'suspended' ceiling using Eucaboard. I wanted to use 1/4" plywood, but the only thing available was double sided finished which would be a waste. Some of the ceiling 'panels' were designed to be accessed for wiring if needed. The carpet on the lower half is for sound deadening. Unfortunately, it isn't doing as much as I hoped. The last pic shows the worst area to get covered. That turned out better than I expected. That 'line' around the walls is the approximate table height.
That could be a polite way to say it's terrible. I wanted sky blue for the walls (obvious reason), but wanted a darker color for the ceiling to help hide the 'mistakes' (bad cuts along the ducts). My wife did the choosing for both. Admittedly, I'm not crazy about it, especially the color since I don't like 'loud' colors (as in HGTV). I using left over 'Eucaboard' for that shelve along the wall since the plywood isn't finish grade.
Anyway, I'm not sure to support the whole layout from the walls (braces from the outside to the bottom of the wall) or have the outer portion supported by conventional legs to the floor. I also thought about making it removable (sectional), but I have no foreseeable plans to move and there is no other place this could be placed other than here.
Regarding supporting from walls or legs or sectional. Since you have had water issues. I personally would make it so it could be removed if you ever have to have work done in there due to some unforseen issue, or other problem. Now I am not saying that it wasn't fixed properly. I am just saying, water is a very powerful, pervasive and destructive force. If I were in your situation I would be more inclined to just have the ability to move it if need arise. Just my two cents.
hi, i have seen your plan on another forum as well, not sure about the comments that were made. So I'll tell you my concerns. 1) Lack of staging, you will be switching the same cars over and over again. 2) The radii you use will limit the kind of cars and engines you are able to use. I love railroads from the 50's, when rather short cars and engines were used; your preference might be different. 3) After cuts of cars are ran into the bowl you have to take them out onto a departure yard. By doing so you will have to go over the hump again, a shortcut however seems possible. 4) I have never seen a good working hump-yard in HO, let alone in N. I would experiment with this type of yard before making it the centerpiece of my layout. Smile Paul
meledward23; Thanks, I guess it will not be as noticeable when something is actually in the room. Regarding water issues. I thought about possible foundation access during the interior wall construction. The long inside wall is of no issue, as is the short one by the door Of the two other 'outer' walls; the far short wall along the west foundation has a narrow access section along the entire bottom if I need it, but the corner has a easily removable 3' high panel to access that entire triangular corner. I can actually stand up in the corner (I tried it first). The long outer wall under the windows has a full height removable panel right in the middle to access a former 'seepage' area. I'm reasonable sure both access points are more than sufficient. paulus; 1. No real issue, at least not for me, 2. I understand this. The longest cars I have are passenger. No auto racks or full length TTX, by choice, 3. This is how I did my first 'hump'. I will consider a 'bypass', but I don't think I have room, 4. My first hump has excessive grades. Way too steep for MicroTrain trucks. It was designed for 'stock' Atlas (etc.) trucks that didn't roll. When I changed out then trucks I was amazed on the difference. Went from one extreme to another. Either they didn't clear the foul point of each track, or they shot out the other end (literally).
The room is mostly finished. The temperature has been averaging 60 with a outside temp. average of 50 (+ or -). The humidity averages 60% (55-65%) without the humidifier running. Right now I'm unsure of how to support the layout. Legs or a truss structure along the walls.
With a outside temp. of 23 degrees with high winds, with the aid if some heat from one of the furnaces (it's a double), the temp. inside the room hasn't dropped below 56 degrees. Here is the finished room with the framework attached to the walls;
Layout V2 I updated my design somewhat. I laid out the plan on paper full size on the table along with Peco templates and fine tuned it to work. What I don't show is the passenger station and yard as I have run into a problem of space. At the far right, that straight stretch of track on an angle is where it will go. That is elevated. I was originally planning on accessing it from the left (which is from the top of the drawing, but if I do, I have no switching lead forcing me to use the main. If I use the other end, I have my lead (it's drawn in as a siding), but it bars me from using the area away from the freight yard. I loose alot of storage space. Also, I do not show a engine house, car shop & caboose storage tracks to the left of the hump. The cab track & car shop aren't a big deal, but the engine facility is. I don't know if I should access if from the left or the right off that curved lead from the five track receiving/departure yard. I also didn't show industrial spurs around the perimeter of the layout as these can be added anytime. Input please. (there are three attachments)
