Bryan - I'll consider buying some / much of your Unitrak if you decide to change it out. You might consider using it in hidden areas and use finer track in more visible areas.
For roadbed I use good old cork, glued down with Elmers wood glue, then I sand the tops of the cork which really helps smooth it out in the middle where it joines together and at the ends. Then I spread Liquid Nail on the cork and then work my flex track into the Liquid Nail. Spreading the LIquid Nail thinly keeps it from working up too much between the ties, but a little is OK as it will be covered with ballast. Once the track is down, test with a locomotive. I tested my Mains over and over with Mikes PA1's. These engines are a little pickier then most so they would find the spots I needed to work on. Once the mains were fine, ballasting begain.
Out of curiosity, a joint in a corner.... Do you solder with the track straight and then bend it, or solder bent into place, or some variation? I think the flex joint in the corner (a sharp one, in particular) is the hardest thing to get smooth. Personally I glue the flex down with new, tight rail joiners, then use needle nose to carefully bend/align the very ends, check with a gauge, then solder in place....
Micro Engineering pre-weathered track is really nice. I went with code 70 for two reasons: 1. It wasn't a bad transition to the code 80 Atlas track I had on the original core of my layout. 2. I could run all my older engines and rolling stock. Now I'm considering tearing up the original code 80 Atlas and replacing it. The options I'm looking at are: code 55 Atlas; code 55 ME (hard to get sometimes, especially turnouts); the new code 65 Atlas - which would be a nice smooth transition to my code 70 ME track. I admit it - I can't stand looking at Atlas code 80 no matter how well it's painted and ballested...
Try Woodland Scenics Foam Tack for holding track to cork, foam or whatever. It also works for holding cork to wood. Sets up in a few minutes without leaving bumps or filling in between the ties. (sorry for the brain infarction earlier)
I had the same issue with having a layout with Code 80 and bad trackwork. I decided to go with Unitrack. A few days before making the first track order, I changed my mind because of appearance and decided to go with Atlas Code 55. Go slow, solder carefully and you will NOT have trackwork issues.
I try to keep the joiners off the curves as much as possible. I have some in corners that have not causes any problems, but I had one, that I ended up cutting and pieceing in a length of Flex to get the joints in straighter sections. No soldering of joints on my layout....yet. I am building it in a garage where the temp goes up and down by close to 100 degrees during the seasons, so all joiners are gapped slightly.
I use atlas code 55 and have been quite pleased with the results. The use of the switches is a bit more difficult since they need some sort of holding mechanism for actuation either a machine, grownd throw or homebrew solution. If I were to do it again, I would probably use sectional track in the large curves and use flex elsewhere. When it comes to laying the track, take your time and use easements into your curves. This will make the transition from straights to curves much smoother. I have found that aileens tacky glue works pretty well to hold the track to the cork, it dries fast but and doesn't give up its hold while ballasting. As far as the curves go, I would recommend not gluing the corners until you ballast. I use straight pins to hold the curve in place and then use the ballast to level the track and control the amount of easement. Time and consistancy are the keys to good trackwork.
track KOOL!! That looks like my roadbed when laying It ! ! push pins the way to go!! Great work,HUMMM?? that new atlas track looks good To me!I hate ballest!! JIM
I think you'd be happy with Atlas code 55 flextrack. I've been using it on my layout (my first one) for 4 years now and have no problems what so ever. I have no derailments and I use lowpro wheels. It looks good too. Erik
Just out of curiousity, when you were a teenager, did you try to cram too much in too little space? S curves without a straight transition piece were what drove me out of the hobby decades ago. I too got fed up with derailments about every third pass over the same spot. In two different spots! Making two laps without mishap was quite an achievement, but still took all the fun out of it. Since you've mastered transitions and such, I suspect that your efforts with flextrack will be successful this time around.
Is there a good book or DVD I can buy that shows all the correct techniques in laying Atlas Code 55 track? I have never used this track but I would like to use it when I start building my new layout.
I used the Atlas Code 55 track on my layout. Used cork roadbed, glued it down then sanded it smooth with 80 grit sand paper on a sanding block so that any humps or bumps were non existent then laid the track attaching it with Loctite contact cement. I did not glue the turnouts down, just let them float. Worked good and no derailments!:thumbs_up:
I have been using Atlas code 55 on cork. Glue the cork and track down using artist Matte Medium. This product holds very well and allows lifting of the track after drying if repair is necessary (before ballast). Push pins to hold the track while the Matte Medium drys. Takes a couple of hours. The only derailments are at turnouts that I have not got a throw mechanism in place yet - tortoise or manual. Turnouts that are setup with tortoise or manual have been no problem. This with LP wheels. Tom
You really don't need a book. It goes down just like any other track. As with any other track, go slowly, go carefully, and don't try to force anything. Sanding down the roadbed is also a good idea, as stated above. People looking will never know that you have sanded since it will be covered with ballast, but your trains will know. You will eliminate sway and the occasional uncoupling at that bumpy spot. Test it all- make sure it is smooth, no kinks, and that you have no gaps in power before ballasting (which isn't too hard a job [when compared to taking apart and reassembling a steam engine]) (which I have no intention of doing)..
Have any of you seen Kato's new concrete tie Unitrack? If your layout is of a modern era, and you wish to use concrete tie track, this new track has a much closer tie spacing than "wood-tie" Unitrack. It looks to me much like a scaled down version of real concrete tie track. The curves even have super-elevation. I like it so much that I'm switching over to it. If they come out with concrete tie turnouts and all of the other track components of their wood-tie line, this will be the answer to my track needs. Al
