Track. Realism. N scale. AARGGH!

My basic question is where to go after Unitrack, but please read on.

Long ago, when I was a teenage railfan, I started an HO model railroad. I had grand ambitions, but I was brought up short by trackwork. I tried flex track and even hand-laying track, but I soon learned that derailments were simply a fact of life. And that took all the fun out of model railroading.

Waiting all these long decades for technological advancement, I thought I'd found it in Unitrack. And I was right. A model railroader of average skills (or less than average skills, like me) can put together a fantastic model railroad that will operate smoothly, with very few derailments. I've gone to great extremes to learn how to make Unitrack work for me. I know how to do things with Unitrack that, I suspect, few people know. I can make beautiful-looking, triple-track curves. I know how to implement easements with Unitrack that make 85' passenger cars look prototypical.

BUT, may Mr. Kato forgive me, UNITRACK IS UGLY.

(Pant, pant) There, it's out.

It doesn't look like American railroad track. Sure, people have ballasted it, painted it, or simply tried to pretend that it doesn't exist, but the fact remains, I can't go back to my memories of 1950s railroading when I see my rolling stock on Unitrack.

So, my friends, I appeal to you for help. I want to move to a track platform that LOOKS like American railroad track. It must have TURNOUTS that operate without inducing constant derailments or requiring a Ph.D. in electrical engineering to wire. It must be reasonably easy to install and maintain. And - it must look like a railroad track.

Is this too much to ask?

Warm wishes and thanks,
Bryan

 

Maybe take a look at Atlas new True Track.

 

Not there yet

The inititial release doesn't even come close to Unitrack's variety (radii, turnouts, track lengths, etc.). I worry that an initial investment would be pointless; if it doesn't take off, and Atlas cancels their plans to expand the line, I'm derailed. Again.

 

Yes the Atlas & Kato track looks okay, but I find it too limiting on what you can build for your railroad. With flex track and ready made turnouts you can build track work that looks much more like the prototype. But you are still limited by what is available ready to run. There needs to be turnouts with bigger frog numbers. For good/great track work #4 turnouts shouldn't be used at all. Number 5 or 6 in the yards, #8's would be a sharp turnout on the mainline, #10 and up for the high speed/heavy duty mainline.

I DO NOT believe that derailments are NORMAL. Build the best track work possible from the START. Do not take the route "I'll fix it later" with your track work, this will handicap your railroad from the git-go.

For complete realism HANDLAYING is the way to go. You can build your track work any way you want and custom track work is the norm.

 

You mean like this:

I was leaning toward using Atlas code 55, and when they came out with the #10 switches, that sealed the deal.

 

I know it's not exactly what you were asking, but I urge you to learn how to make flex track work for you. I too had derailments early in my model career due to poorly laid track, in particular poor joints. When I finally saw an expert do it the right way, I went Ah-Ha, and went home and practiced. It's not really that hard, but it does take some knowledge and some practice cutting and soldering track.

The reward is huge though. Your railroad can go anywhere. You can use many styles of track. You can use many types of switches.

A lot of people look for the "one true track", and I don't really understand it. I use a lot of Atlas Code 80, being an NTraker it's the standard. But I have Peco Code 55, Peco Code 55 Concrete, and ME Code 55 on my modules. They don't cause derailments, they don't have pizza cutter issues. Many NTrakers while they swear by Atlas track love the Peco switches for the spring loaded design, no switch motor necessary.

Real railroads have heavy mainlines and light sidings. The use of sectional for a siding can even enhance the look. Real railroads will have a new concrete tied track next to an older wooden one. Mixing up the look helps make your railroad look more real.

I plan on doing some track laying segments on Reality Reduced, but it will probably be in the fall. There's no substitute for the guy at the local club though who does an awesome job taking 15 minutes to show you the tricks.

 

When I was a teenage railfan, I built a layout with code 80 track and Atlas turnouts, and I had the same problems you did. But...

-While I was building it, Atlas came out with improved switches, which worked better. The code 55 are even better made.
-Also, I got more patient and experienced with my track laying, and the later parts of the layout I laid worked better.

I think if you built a layout now with Atlas code 55, you'd find that with your adult patience and the improved quality of the product, your derailments would be fewer and farther between.

Alternatively, you could wait for the code 65 True-Track, which will come out later this year, and probably eventually will have a fairly full product line.

Also remember that a layout needn't be one type of track. You can use Unitrak in hidden areas for the ease of laying good track, and code 55 in visible areas for realism.

 

You know, we come so far with locomotive details, cars, structures, and still we are with the abomination of modeled track. Not to knock Kato, cause I use it on test tracks, its for temporary layouts, its 1 150 scale, the spacing isn't right, the rail profile is wrong and way too big. When Atlas's new sectional comes out, it will be a damn site better. but while the rail and the ties spacing is better, the rail size isn't, and there is that "molded ballast that never looks good.

Atlas's code 55 is the right step, take your time in stalling it. ballast it, and it will look very good. (not great, because of the large spikes) but good, in my opinion Micro engineering track looks far better. Nothing great is going to come free, and in ME's case its the work that you'll need to do when you lay it down. Handlaying is for folks whom don't mind spending extra money, and time to lay track by hand, but most times it won't have tie plates or spikes, You'll have to add to it to get it to look as good as ME flex track. No pain, no gains! If you want to capture the "look" your going to have to put the effort into it.

Rob

 

If Atlas come out with a decent selection of radii 15" and greater for their True-Track before I start my layout then I will consider it, otherwise I'm taking the hard option and learning to lay Atlas C55 track. If it takes me a few attempts to get it right then so be it, I just don't like the way the C80 looks and it will always bug me if I use it.

 

I've been toying with PC board ties and code 40/55 rail. I've always loved to look of hand laid track. Far better appearance than anything on the market.

With "flex-track," patience is the key to good, reliable track work. Work at an easy pace. Make sure everything is smooth, in gauge, properly secured and expansion gaps are cut before moving on.

 

Derailments don't have to be a way of life. Take your time, and double and triple check as you go. Atlas 55 is a good compromise of looks and price, ME is excellent track. Even Atlas 80 can look better than you'd expect, when painted and ballasted.

 

Thanks to all - this has really been helpful. Having looked over the options, it seems that M-E Code 55 would be my choice... but it doesn't seem to be available. Anyone know what's going on with this product? The new Atlas Tru-Trak does look nice, but after fussing with Unitrack for two years I've had it with sectional track.

What about roadbed? There seems to be only two products available, good ol' cork and Woodland Scenics' Track-Bed. The latter looks good to me - there's a variety of products, continuous 24' rolls, etc. I hated cork roadbed 45 years ago!

Many thanks again!
Bryan

 

>Having looked over the options, it seems that M-E Code 55 would >be my choice... but it doesn't seem to be available. Anyone know >what's going on with this product?

There was a long thread on the N-Scale Yahoo group regarding the rumor that ME had a broken die. That rumor turned out to be false.

If you are having a problem finding ME track, perhaps you should change your source. I can tell you that Wig-Wag, N Scale Supply, and some train store.com all have it....

 

Most of the e-tailers can get you ME code 55 flex with no major difficulty. I have gotten it recently from both Feather River and N Scale Supply.

ME code 55 turnouts are quite another issue. The old ones are not DCC friendly, and need to be cut. As such they have been discontinued, and many places seem to just be out. ME is rumored to have newer DCC friendly turnouts in the works which will be out any day now. For now either Atlas Code 55 or Peco Code 55 (the latter requiring filing off the bottom rib to work) are your best bets for turnouts.

As for roadbed, I'd avoid the Woodland Scenics product. I've used a little of it and it seems harder to glue down, and the way it gives when working on the track makes it a bit harder to work with as well. Plus it's harder to glue track to it.

I use Midwest products cork and it's a quality product.