Sorry, my bad. Look too fast. Thought they were Kato Unitrack. Atlas standard C80 should work fine. I would trace the rails out with a multi-meter.
Power routing means that electric power flows in the direction that the points are thrown. Kato's #6 switches are power routing. Their #4 switches are optional.
So are they Power Routing, the Atlas Code 80. I still don't completely understand that, although I have seen it on here many times I'm just a simple model railroader If it works, I'm good. And when it is 2 loops the one connection works fine for testing and running trains.
As as I know the traditional Atlas C80 switches are not power routing. Power routing means that the power will follow where the switch is routed to but will cut the power to the other route of the switch. So if your switch is switched to a spur then that spur will get power but the main line after the switch will not have power (unless fed in the other direction). Similarly if the switch is straight through then your spur will be dead and you loco can be parked there with no power. This is especially effective if you are running DC where "everything is on".
Alright moved the ONE feeder to the inside 9 3/4 track and it works but not the outer 11" track, so I must need another feeder drop. since the outer is so much bigger with extra track? So just too much track to power I guess with one feeder I am about to take down the second module anyway, and have to rewire the main module ( that is always up ) again with drop feeders, remote switches, etc... Should be fine at some point, I hope
You need more cowbell! (aka power feeds to the tracks) I'll bet if you had both turnouts on both crossovers thrown, thus running trains around the inner tracks on one end of the oval and the outer tracks on the other end, then it probably worked okay, but only on that loop, using the inner tracks on the far end, and the outer tracks on the near end.
Well, I put it back like it was, outer and inner only same size basically. And it used to work, or I thought it did, but does not now with just ONE feeder. Going to try a new switch machine, and then add another feeder to the inside track IF that does not work. I could have sworn it worked before, but I guess I was just dreaming Just one module again. So if I use the multimeter what do I set it on? I barely know how to use it, but do have one. I did set my NCE PowerCab to show AMP's recently and it is showing amperage on the NCE PowerCab, but the feeder is on the outside, so I guess it would.
The powercab measuring current tells you how much load the locomotives on the track are consuming. If you have no locomotives on the track, or they are not running, the track current will be pretty low, if not zero. With a multimeter, you generally want to measure voltage between the two rails (one probe on one rail, the other probe on the other rail). If DCC, which is AC, you'll want to measure AC voltage between the rails, but I'm not sure whether your multimeter will read high enough frequency (~5 to 9 KHz) AC voltage to measure it accurately. You should see something though. I have a Fluke true-RMS reading multimeter, and it reads DCC ACC voltage significantly lower than actual, because the DCC frequency is much higher than the normal 60 Hz on household outlets. You can measure DCC current in series with the rails, but you'll have to break the connection between one of the DCC wires and the track rail it was connected to, and insert your multimeter in series to connect the the wire you disconnected. Not recommended if you don't really know what you're doing... If DC power pack, then measure DC voltage between/across the rails, with the power pack set to mid-high throttle. If your DCC system has the ability to run a DC locomotive (usually on address 0?), then you could use the DC voltage setting on your multimeter to measure voltage across (between) the rails, and it should vary with the throttle setting. Otherwise, DCC AC track voltage does not change with throttle setting.
I knew it had worked before with just the ONE connection to the track. It was a BAD manual RH switch. Man I feel better, was beginning to wonder if my memory was going bad. Not that it has ever been really good. Thank goodness, now I can order some remote switch machines or even completely new switches to get things wired again at some point. Yeah, it works Of course I will drop some extra feeders down the road just for better running. So since I am ordering NEW Remote Switches, I should get the #6 instead of the #4 ones correct? I have one Atlas Code 80 LH #6 and it appears to be about an inch longer, but isn't the curve more forgiving on a #6 switch? Of course I will loose 2 inches on my tiny 2'x4' layout and they are only one dollar more. I think every one here seems to like the #6 when they can use them, and mine are Atlas Code 80.
You probably won't be able to get the same track-track spacing with #6 switches in a crossover. The #6 will generally require greater track-track spacing in a crossover. Assuming both #4 & #6 TO's have the same departure angle (e.g. equivalent to a 15 degree curve.)
Thinking maybe on my tiny 2'x4' I'll have to go with #4 switches. Maybe I can buy one more #6 LH Remote at the local hobby shop and see IF it will work before I order 4 of them, maybe. Not really sure if it will be that noticeable on my small layout. Have no clue at this point. Gonna wait on buying them for now.
If you have track software, e.g., XTrakCAD (free), you can do a mock up virtually and see the difference between 4 and 6.
Since your layout is small with tight curves I don’t think there’s any benefit to using #6 switches other than looks. Since all your trains can handle 9.75” curves they will have no problems with the #4 switches. Spend the money on something else.
Yeah I tend to agree. Not only that, but I could just buy the Switch Machines for my #4's. which converting my Manuals to Remotes, and they are about HALF of what the complete switch cost. Plus I don't really do prototypical anyway Just fun! Gonna hold off for now making a decision.
I use XTrackCAD, and can definitely vouch for it! It has a very extensive library of Unitrack and other brands of track pieces, and many structures, so you can try out a piece of track, a bridge or a structure, and see if it will fit where you want it. But regardless of which track planning app you use, they all make designing or modifying your layout so much easier. XTrackCAD has a pretty complete library of N scale Unitrack pieces, including bridges (trestles) and viaducts, and a fairly good library of commercially available structures. It can also animate a train running on the layout. I was even able to run a train, and determine the round-trip distance on my layout.
XTrackCAD ? I never really made my layout plan on paper. Downloaded XTrackCAD and already I cant find where to change the track to Unitrack. Not a good start for this old guy !
I hear you loud and clear, George. It’s 10+ years since I last used a Windows computer but I remember trying to figure out XTrackCAD with no success. I’ve had a MacBook since 2014 and I use RailModeller Pro to try out track designs. I use it to see what’s possible but since I use Unitrack I finalize my plan with the track.
