Joe.... You have a part # on the non operational ones? I am like you...dbl track and to many trains and to much noise...
The part # is 20-027-1. To make a double track crossing you also need the 124mm rerailer tracks, part # 20-026. It comes with 2 rerailer track sections and the pieces to space them correctly for double track.
I have 2 observations on the Model Magic clay. First, it shrinks a little as it dries. Second, whatever you’re making should use 1 piece of clay. Joining 2 or more pieces doesn’t work so well. This photo shows the clay just after I put it in place. This photo shows the dried clay. This is somewhat disappointing but I can work with it. If you decide to try Model Magic keep these limitations in mind.
Often we learn more from failures than from successes. Or maybe it's just that we remember the failures more because of their pain? But lessons learned and shared are multiplied! Thanks!
I would use joint compound, or plaster of Paris mixed with some granulated cork (or similar). Sometimes it pays off to work in layers. Slower but leads to better results.
I decided to go the grass mat route rather than traditional landscaping. I chose this method mostly due to my age. I want to have a finished looking layout as quickly as possible so I can run trains in a pleasant setting. I can always add ground foam later to upgrade the layout but it will look good quickly this way. This is a work in progress photo. After I get the grass down I'll get the backdrop done.
I like it Joe! The color change from pink to green makes such a huge difference. You are taking a good approach!
Unfortunately, Kato no longer offers its Road Crossing Track 20-021 that provided a simple rural crossing without gates. Through the kindness of a TrainBoard member some 2-1/2 years ago, I as able to buy what I needed for my layout.
Thanks Richard. I am tired of watching trains run in a pink desert. The grass mat and sky with clouds backdrop will make a huge difference. I'm thinking that I can always add traditional scenery on top of the mat if I'm so inclined but I just might be happy with it with just roads, trees, bushes and other details and leave the grass alone.
I've actually done that before and it's a good way to go. In fact, there is one spot on my current layout that was done exactly that same way.
They still come in starter sets and track sets like the M1 and M2. The crossing/re-railer section is slightly different but it comes with the ramps for the road. As far as I know they no longer sell the ramps separately, only in the sets.
Huge improvement over the pink! Another option for grade crossings is Evergreen Scale Models #149 .04 x .25" strips. They are like a "perfect" fit for Kato Unitrack. Cut only for grade crossing width. Possibly score for "wood" look?
That is a great tip, Mark. .040” plastic sheet can be used to make the ramps up to the rails for a home made grade crossing.
I got the .04 tip from @mtntrainman back in June of 21. Liked what he did with the styrene so my ramp and paved roads are .04" styrene. Ended up cutting .25" strips since at the time was unaware that Evergreen EVG149 is the perfect fit in between the rails. Mine are not permanently attached to allow for cleaning the inner sides of both rails. You can see pics of what he did along with a lot of great ideas from other TB members. https://www.trainboard.com/highball...-sought-for-kato-n-scale-double-track.138502/
I need a few more grass mats to finish up so I’m at a standstill. I had to disconnect wires and pick up track so I could place the mats. I plugged the wires in so I could run trains and admire my new grassy areas. I noticed that the trains run considerably quieter on the area with the mat compared to the area that is just pink styrofoam. I thought the running noise was caused by the Unitrack but apparently it’s mostly due to the foam acting as a sound board even though it’s 2” thick. One other unexpected benefit of the mats is that the track doesn’t move. The grass holds it in place. The track didn’t move a lot but I would occasionally have to adjust it to maintain proper spacing, especially on curves. I’m making progress, not as quickly as I would like but still progress.
