Gearhead Hi Mark - Sure can... Got it here: http://www.gizmoszone.com/shopping/agora.cgi?product=Gearmotor;ppinc=1g Got the idea from "randgust"s post in this thread way back on page 13, post #130. I bought the GH810514V3, which, as randgust wrote, is only $13.10. I bought two in case I broke one or to use as a spare. Shipping from China was about $19. I go for the simplest solution. I thought about shortening the driveshaft, but that would change the geometry of the linkage in the curves - a longer driveshaft would work better. That, and it was simple just to trim some plastic from the end. There is also the PC board mounted in the middle. Again, simple wins. Besides trimming the chassis plastic for the motor, I had to grind a flat onto the Kato motor shaft to accept the keyway in the gearbox. the shaft also had to be cut down a mm or two in length. Also, the gearbox output shaft is plastic and too large for the Kato u-joint socket. After mounting the gearhead to the Kato motor, I simply wired it to a power pack, set it running at a nice middle speed and gently held sand paper against it while the shaft was spinning. Just like a Kato lathe! The original Kato motor contact brass strips have to go but it was simple to just wire it directly to the PC board. It makes it simple to add a DCC decoder in the future too. I did take lots of pictures and was thinking of writing up a "how to", if anyone's interested. I must add a giant THANK YOU to randgust for his original post!!! :thumbs_up:
Thanks Jon! The instructions feature the exact measurements so I'm going to try building an adapter out of styrene. And I've apparently got a bunch of short-shank couplers, which with the way I built my boxcab ought to work perfectly. As for the weekend, I got a lot done. The boxcab is getting close to completion: Got some Dullcote on it and started weathering. Also decided to put a brake hose on it (when I found a little piece of black wire that looked reasonably to scale). I think they came out nicely. The window glass is in, weights are in (needs more), and Hetek here on TB has sent me instructions for the coupler conversion kit so I can make an adapter for my short-shank MTLs to go on it. After that, a little more weathering touch-up, number boards, and adding the headlights (when the LEDs arrive) and this sucker is finito!
well I am back to square one. my daughter tried to "help" me and accidently dumped a little too much plastic cement on it, and the damn thing melted. we will see what happens now. I'm thinking I might go with a more traditional looking one anyways.
Ack! Oh well, building it is half the fun. And now that you won't be needing your pantograph, I'll PM you my address... Can't wait to see what you cook up!
That's the Bachmann 2-6-6-2 headlight, with the hood cut off, the back ground down, and the bottom clips cut off. I think it worked out pretty decently. I could have used the 2-8-0 headlight, but I liked how this one looked a little better. You can see them on the Bachmann site in the parts section (or go look at the weekend modeling accomplishments for today and see that on my 59-tonner).
Matt - I thought this was a "challenge", not a race! Looks like you win the "Fastest Construction of an N Scale Boxcab" award! Looks great too! Just wanted to add about the couplers... I dug out my "short" coupler kit. Everything looks the same as the medium kit, except the plastic sprue has the number 7 on it (for MT-7) and the length is .225" (as opposed to the .275" length of the medium shank kit). The instructions and assembly should be the same (just smaller).
Thanks Jon. I don't have a conversion kit so I'm going to be making the conversion adapter and faking it. Should be easy enough though with the supplies I have on hand. And hey, I'm not done yet. The LEDs aren't even here yet and I have a lot of worky-work to do over the next two weeks. Plenty of time for you to catch up. And don't forget, when I'm done, I've still got Steve's to build (which is gonna be fun, too!).
One down, one to go. Built the adapter for one side. Couldn't get a spring in it, but installed without and it works pretty good. I'll fuss with it later, but I think it came out pretty decent. This is the short-shank MT7 coupler, btw. I think I'll need the medium-shank couplers for the 59-tonner.
Funny thing about that coupler spring - The MTL instructions say to put a dab of saliva on the end of the spring to help it stay in the adapter during assembly. I always used to think that was a strange thing to put in the instructions. Not very "high tech". Anyway, it works! I just touch the spring to the tip of my tongue and set it in the adapter. Even after accidentally dropping the adapter once, it still stayed in place!
Thanks for the tip, Jon. My problem isn't the spring falling out, but getting the spring installed in the first place. I don't think I have the correct springs to use for this (since I don't actually have an adapter kit) and the space I'm working with seems to be just a little too tight for it to fit in there. Oh well, it hooks up to cars and doesn't uncouple randomly so that's good enough for right now.
Looks very good Matt. Sorry I've been a bit silent of late. Current project is digging up old passenger cars. I'll be home most days this and next week.
Not a problem, Steve. I've been busy with work-work lately. Working on a deadline right now, for that matter (except for the occasional TB break, that is!). I've been doing some clearance testing on the E-unit chassis and am working on a plan for it. Skirts are tough, but we'll find some way to make 'em work. Whenever you dig up the passenger cars, let me know. I should have more time for phone calls after tomorrow. Now, for a quick boxcab update. Got the LEDs and fiber optics today. Now I just need to figure out how I'm going to install them. Should be neat though. I also received a package from my old drummer that contained a Life-Like SW9 (thought it was an SW8) that I've owned for over 10 years and haven't seen in almost as many years. Glad I used the Kato critter chassis. The SW chassis is too big. And now I get to use this nice little loco on the layout, too! :tb-biggrin:
Yay, knuckle couplers on both sides of the boxcab! I modified an MTL 1111 set after I found out it wasn't going to work on my SW9 and now both couplers work just fine. I'll still need to find another solution for the SW and the 59-tonner though (really needs a medium to long shank as the short M7 barely shows past the end platforms). Next up, headlights and numberboards.
making progress... Here's a minor update photo - Old windows cut out and new ones made. No going back now! Just waiting for the window guys to show up and install 'em. Actually, they'll probably be the last thing installed because the window frames are a different color and will be painted seperately from the shell. Oh, I filled in the side door windows too. I was also looking at adding some end and roof details next. And speaking of end details... What the heck is that "nose" thing on the prototype? PW&NJ's has one in the center, while my Harlem Transfer #2 will have one on either side of the end doors. Almost looks like a step. Any ideas?
Looking great, Jon! Can't wait till they're red. As for the nose, I haven't figured it out either. Maybe another location for a light or something? Horsie rides? Predecessor to Thomas the Tank Engine "face-on-train" style? Anyway, it was a complete PITA to make that part. But it finally came out OK. Hmmm, maybe it is a step for replacing headlight bulbs?
the wife and the boxcab Wanted to add... I was cutting out the windows on the caboose shell the other night and had my train stuff all over the kitchen table (my "workbench"). Just me, my Exacto and my iPod. I was in the zone - forgot all about my honey-do list. My wife gets home and first thing she says is "Are you working on your trains again?!! Oh, is that the train you're building for that "Challenge" thing? Well, OK..." I guess she's a fan of boxcabs!
My wife doesn't mind the train thing at all. I think she's glad I am not out at the bars or whatever. She knows where I am and what I am doing.
My wife only dislikes trains when she comes downstairs in the morning after I have a night of modeling. Somehow she always finds those small bits of styrene and sharp parts that shoot off the table with her bare feet. "OWWW!!!!!! What the HE** DID I JUST STEP ON!!!!" "Hey! You found my Micro Trains Line #1127 coupler trip pin! Great!" She didn't think it was great.
