These little guys transfer their power through the outside points of the axles into cups. Those cups are great for collecting grime. Also don't forget the single traction tire. It affects both power pickup as well as pulling power. As the truck moves in one direction or the other, it will pop a micro wheelie. The adds or subtracts traction depending on the direction. If you get a traction wheel from another chassis and put it on the opposite corner of the first you can negate the effect but will lose more power pick up.
Thanks CNW. I saw the little cups but I don't want to risk breaking the trucks to take it apart. Does this disassemble in a way that will allow it to go back together? Also, since I'm able to get it running holding the wire to the insides of the wheels, I don't think it's that. Seems just too likely to be the flanges and main wheel surfaces. I'll just have to clean them up and see what happens. Meanwhile, had some nice sun today:
The axles will pop out with gentle persuasion. Just like any other truck, gently bend back the plastic and copper from the axle. It does not take much. Alcohol will clean out most of the gunk. Squeezing them might improve contact. You might try bending the chassis power strips to touch the tabs that project from the truck.
I did the gearhead conversion on mine so I don't really notice the "runs slower in one direction" phenomenon. I did have pickup problems but that was due to a dirty test track - a bright boy took care of that. I don't really know which is the best orientation for the body on chassis. In other words, is it better to have the power truck in the front or back? In my mind (and not a very scientific method at that) I call the "F" and "B" ends "front" and "back". Then I just followed the old school 1960's automobile standard: Engine in front, drive wheels in back. Which end is the front and which end is the back doesn't seem to be a big deal for a boxcab. PW&NJ - I like you truck side frames better than mine. Mine have lots of coil springs and look to be difficult to disguise. Your simpler version looks more correct for a boxcab. I also noticed that on sunny days, your diorama has more auto traffic. Probably just tourists out sight-seeing on a sunny day? My boxcab? I spent yesterday drilling LOTS of #80 bit holes for the grab irons, finalized the body to chassis fitment, made two sets of stirrup steps for the side ladders, and even installed an air-actuated ringer for the bell. Tonight the cab end running boards will be "on the workbench" (aka the kitchen table). And, no, I never intended to detail my boxcab that much. I just kinda got into it... like I'm in the zone. Curse you "Boxcab Challange"!
I suspect the problem is just gunk on the wheels and flanges. Track is shiny clean and nothing else has any troubles on it, including the 59-tonner. But I'll let you know, and thanks for more tips! I prefer to run mine with the motor in the front and the drive wheels in the rear. The way I see it, if the train is moving forward, the locomotive is more likely (not that it's THAT likely anyway) to lift in the front, so having the drive wheels in the rear (and the larger part of the weight) seems logical (I could be crazy, though). I forget which is which, but I like them too. The critters i'm working with for the boxcab and 59-tonner are 11-106 and 11-107, which since this was a trade deal with Grey One, just sorta worked out the way it did. As for the auto traffic, you might also notice that the guy in the VW is ALWAYS around (that's what I used to drive, especially in my train-chasing days... same color, too). More vehicles being painted/weathered soon. Funny thing is, neither did I! Wish I had a bell for the top. What I have works for the 3-foot test, but I've been having fun with photography at 6-inches lately. Something to look forward to.
Well, to confess, I don't have a real bell... It's just a bit of styrene rod I chucked up in my Dremel and held some 600 grit paper to until it looked like a bell. Then I carved up a piece of .001" sheet styrene for the mounting frame. The "air-actuated ringer" is a piece of styrene rod with a #80 hole and a piece of #9 steel guitar string. Gotta find me some brass colored paint now... Ah ha... My chassis is the 11-105. That explains the side frame difference.
My bell is a piece of scrap plastic (it's actually the plug end of one side of an HO-scale grab iron) chopped off, glued on and painted gold. Maybe if I build a frame for it it'll look a little better. And I've got plenty of guitar string around here, so maybe I can do more... Or maybe after I finish my other boxcab projects (like Grey One's boxcab and the W&OD portholed monster!).
Well, I think an update is due... I didn't do the end running boards like previously mentioned. Instead, I tackled the headlights. Here they are (the other end looks similar - it is a boxcab after all). I even tried to get the number boards to light up but they are just too small being "N". Hey, I tried at least. I ended up settling with triangle pieces of styrene. I used the SMD LED's with magnet wire leads which just barely fit. And... [drum roll, please] ...We're DCC now! I have hours of fun just letting the boxcab sit on the tracks, turning the headlights on and off and dimming them! Ok, maybe not "hours"... I'm not that nuts (OK, just a little). Still gotta figure out why my camera is taking fuzzy macro pictures though. Only 17 days left! Gotta get cruisin'!
Looks great! My eye is much better than it was 10 days ago. I still don't have the same acuity as I did two months ago but am getting ready to find more equipment.
BUMP. Coming down to the wire. Still time to get in on the fun though. Can't wait to see what folks have built.
My Boxcab "weekly status update meeting" - Well, last night I finished up my end running boards - soldered up 5 pieces of brass for each. Worked on 'em 'til 3 am. New truck sideframes are done and ready to be mounted, but that's another story (and thread). Grab irons and ladders done. Headlights work! Underframe tanks built and ready to be mounted... Looks like it's time for a marathon ACC session! Paint's in... Side stirrup steps ready to go on... New airbrush compressor! DCC decoder dialed in for a scale minimum speed of 1.4 MPH with a top speed of 28 mph (30 mph is prototypical, but I'm modeling a prototype that's 40 years old and within 5 years of retirement, so let's just say she's "showing her age"). I got a little crazy with this. I have the 28 speed steps set to be N scale miles-per-hour. Wanna go 4 mph? set the speed step to "4". Accurate to within +/- .5 mph from 1 to 28! Only with no-load, of course. Main stumbling block now are decals/lettering, paint, weathering and time. I have to work two nights O/T this week and it limits my modeling time this close to the wire. Hope to make it still. If not, can I file for an extension?
Posting what looks alot to me like my "punch list" (and the fact I got out of work earlier than anticipated) I was able to finish and mount all my steps and running boards (during Saturday Night Live). Once I glue the tanks to the underside of the chassis I should be ready for the paint booth! Hey, since they mount underneath I could glue them on after I paint 'em! Woo Hoo! Time to fire up the compressor! (...after my "honey-do's" are done.)
Dam good job. If that was a fantasy scheme the white and red with black details it would look great. But those SF markings ruin it.
Dude. Glad this isn't a competition, cause I'm already lost! Hetek: how'd you build those nifty front steps - soldered brass rod? Very groovy details! So, seeing as it's almost the end of November, I thought I should probably get started, if anything just to prove I'm in this thing. Built a frame and box to slip over the 44T chassis: The box is to hide the mech, as there'll be doors & windows along the wooden exterior (which I'm building plank by plank), and to allow the shell to be pulled off, so I can swap out different era boxcabs (when I get around to building them). At some point, it should look something like this: But made by a senile blacksmith with the DTs out of old Climax parts in a backwoods shop in early 1900s Mt. Coffin. Part of the fun will be seeing if the headlamps and bell I ordered from RLW gets here in time (when I ordered them last week I got an email saying Marshall was in South America until mid/late-Nov.) Nothin' like waiting to the last minute! Very glad others are doing quality work, though! Rock on!
