I too like the smaller format and all that comes with the T-Trak-Z concept. There is something that can be said for a module that can be easily moved around from the workbench, flipped over for electrical work, taken to the paint booth so you don't have to smell paint fumes, taken outside in the sun for photo shoots, and ending up with a lightweight module for displays or shows. So much easier than Z-Bend Track modules for us aging modelers.
Rob K., Very nice module! I like how you worked in all the product and not make it look forced. Nice scene. Scott
Thanks! Here is a satellite view of the scene. You will see I have incorporated all the elements, including the 40' container used for storage. One compromise was to move the farm house forward so it would be on the scene. But the utility boxes, tower placement, crossing, etc are all placed in relationship.
Really cool to see reality modeled! I think that’s the real strength of Z scale. Less selective compression to the other scales. Oh and I really like the crossing gates!
Thanks! The crossing is Rokuhan's S045-2 US style crossing. Raildig has created decals for us that really bring the road to life. https://ztrackcenter.com/S045-2?search=s045-2 Rob
Very nice, Rob! I see you found in Dunkirk a great spot for prototypes for our z scale models. What's next from Dunkirk, maybe this one? Matt
Hello all! I wanted to share a display module I have been working on. The concept is based on the Worthington Industries mill in Delta Ohio. The module is T-Trak-Z. It is a triple module from Stuart Denniston. I wanted to showcase a number of Z scale products on the module. The SW1500 and NSC coil cars are from American Z Line. The weathered gondola is from Micro-Trains. The mill building on the left is from Z.Scale.Hobo (Archistories kit). Details really help make the scene. The dumpsters are rapid prototype. I used real stainless steel shavings and rusted metal for the contents. The scrap pile on the right also uses real rusted metal. The backdrop uses the same material as the mill building, and photos of the actual mill for perspective. I have steel coils inside the mill building. You can see them in the photo. The lighting is from Raildig and Rokuhan. The two green coil shields are a nod to the P&LE railroad. A personal favorite of mine. The foreground is not completed yet. I am going to hold off on doing this until I know how I want to integrate it into a large module display. Rob
Very well done Rob, the backdrop adds a neat 3D aspect to the module, and the lighting inside adds life to the scene.
I have a stupid question. Out of everything T-Trak in HO, N, and Z that I have looked at, I can't get past the ugliness of the small GAP that is between modules. I know one of the difficulties of mating two peoples different modules together for track to fit and work, but everything I am seeing in the precise Exactness of building the modules, couldn't that precision have also been applied to the module track mating sections? I mean, I saw what was either N or HO of a mountain scene with hikers way on up right next to and on both sides of the gaudy GAP. I pictured in my mind of those hikers jumping across the gap in a game. What gives? It's not a stupid question now that I have asked it! Tim
Rob, great start on a module that be setup for many scenes. Tim, it’s sorta like the Z-Bend Track or Zmon or . . . A lot of things. Who made the modules (various laser/CNC, etc), assembly, subtle warp, Table surface, etc., etc. The one that I see is that there are no top surface targets for drilling holes for Rokuhan track, so that they would be ‘flush’ the end.
I watched a video of a N scale T-trak at a National Train Show and it was huge!!!!! Massive amount of modules connected. Each one had that gap between them. I don't recall any without a gap. I know some modelers like tight tolerances and will make their modules probably mate perfectly, but when mating to another modelers modules may be the issue in most scales. If I dive into T-Trak Z I guess I'll find out for myself. Only place I see that has any precut modules in a variety of sizes for sale are overseas. Thanks! Tim
Tim, Quick off the top of my head, one of the manufacturers I believe was in Canada. Others were in the US. Look at the T track wiki which is somewhat hard to find that the Z page, for modules. Some can make custom. Since these are laser or CNC cut, the fit and squareness is fairly reliable although haps of ‘thousands’ and ‘tens of thousands’ are certainly possible.
OK, So a guy like me who likes tight tolerances build his modules to length, of say 500 microns less, that's 250 microns on each side. My track goes ever so slightly over the edge, but I don't have that huge 2mm gap. And someone else don't mate to mine? It would HAVE to be because the other guy not only did not have the gap, but actually built his module TOO BIG, don't you think? So yes, I understand that if I had the huge 1mm gap on each side, then his oversized module would connect. What I am saying is I honestly feel that if you build your modules to length between -0.5mm to -2mm you should be OK. It's only if your modules are greater than standard that you have issue. What do you Zay?
I just received some Gorilla Glue Clear Grip to try for mounting Rokuhan track to my staging yard modules. I was going to use Atlas Flex on everything, but Rokuhan so so easy to use for TTZ modules, so I am only going to use the Atlas on the showcase modules, and Rokuhan on the ho hum modules. I had tried using hot glue, but I wanted to just use small dabs, and it being winter, the glue hardened before I could jostle my track into place. So I was going to use my old standby, Walthers Goo, but every time I buy a 1oz tube, the nozzle gets gummed up and the cap don't go on, then the tube cracks and leaks. What I need is a smaller tube of the stuff, and there are none. I found the Gorilla Glue Clear Grip as an alternative to E6000, which is close to Walthers Goo contact cement, but available in a small 0.2oz tube. That's 1/5 the size, so if I gum up the top. I can just throw that tube away, and open a new one. So far, it seems to act similar to contact cement, in that you are supposed to apply it to both joining surfaces, let cure a few minutes, then stick the two pieces together. So this stuff is crystal clear, and does not expand, and seems to hold as well as contact cement. I just used very small dabs of the stuff so I could peel up the track later if desired.
