1. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    Mickie says the workbench was as clean as she’s seen ;)
    So the module behind your Round house would be carried by you and just the 3 tracks?
    Is that the default location for the adjustalegs ? Thru the ties? Big ugly hole?
     
  2. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    Today I drew up the adjacent corner to my first corner, where the topography rises from the river dip on the first, above to where the train can disappear into a tunnel. On the other side will just be narrow pass through modules with passing sidings (4 tracks total) that I can use to stage trains. Having skyboards that the train passes through helps stage a scene, as well as hides the backside, where all the "Fiddle Yard" activities as our European friends call them occur. 1.jpg

    So now I have 50% of the modules needed for a banquet table cut. It's clear I am not as fast as everyone else is at Slapping together a set of modules, but then again, I'm in no hurry to actually race trains round and round. I prefer to savor the experience with slow, careful, methodical planning and construction. :D
    2.jpg
     
  3. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    Hi Jeff, Here is my original banquet table module set plans:
    [​IMG]
    As you can see the backside tracks, assuming an East to West line and West to East line, each have staging tracks for setting up a new train, or parking a running one. Those modules are only 175mm or 6.9" deep, and will not have skyboards. This leaves a work pit in the center where I can stage all the power supplies and train boxes and my drinks and snacks! :D If you look carefully at each module top, you can see the little corner holes, 1/16" diameter, for the leg leveler access. They are not close the mainline tracks, but I have a lot of yard tracks up front, so those modules will require me to shove "Prairie Tufts" in those holes that come up between the ties, when I setup at shows.

    I actually PLAN on cleaning up my workbench better, but you know me, as soon as I find a square foot to model, I start building something in that workbench space. AND, you seen what it looked like when I moved, as we boxed up layer of layer of unfinished crap on my workbench, there were a couple brand new MTL SD40-2XR's, a Lajos Thek NP NW2 assembled by Tim B., a set of MTL F7's getting NP'd, and tons of other half finished models. I am going to finish everything... someday ;)



    OOPS! I just discovered that 175mm won't work. I need 200mm depth to fit the magnetic hardware. Re-worked drawings. Here's the updated plan, making those modules 200mm deep. Will have to have a cutout on the backside of the module that backs up to the roundhouse module so the Anderson connectors can fit. No biggy. New module set plans:
    3.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2020
  4. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    You could make a Reversing Loop thru the one Roundhouse stall.
     
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  5. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    I cut the 4 staging yard modules today, but I am switching gears for a 5 day camping trip up to Warm Lake Wednesday. Got some new floaties for the beach, a new Zero Gravity lounge with umbrella, and new cot pads for the tent. My son is bringing up 3 ATV's and a dirt bike for the trails, and we are really looking forward to a little escape from the valley. My garage was 100 degrees a few minutes ago, so I called it a day and took a picture of my progress. The small skyboard on the staging yard modules is more for stacking and storage than actual backdrop. None of these modules are glued together yet:
    1.jpg
     
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  6. animek

    animek TrainBoard Member

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    Maybe, but I very much like the idea, you could create a wooden plug with some trees on it, or a mechanical device for decor, of a maintenance box or relay cabinets on a plug to hide the holes afterward.
    On my part I only have 1/4 of an inch to play with, that's not enough for me to be able to adjust my modules. so I may just copy the idea and redo the legs with adjustment holes on top and cut a slot on top of each screws. Or purchase long set screws instead. [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. GSax

    GSax TrainBoard Member

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    I agree.

    Furthermore I am uncomfortable with standards that are internally inconsistent. If Robert comes to a show with full depth straight modules and I bring minimum radius corner modules, they will not fit together and both will be disappointed to say the least. These are not standards. They are a menu of options.
     
  8. GSax

    GSax TrainBoard Member

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    Great video and nice work as always.

    QUESTION or REQUEST: Please show more detail on the hardware used and its installation to achieve your adjustable legs. Such an approach would significantly ease setups.
     
  9. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    I used E-Z Lok threaded inserts for the leg levelers and the alignment pin holders. they accept 1/4-20 threaded legs. You insert them with an allen wrench.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KT43MU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    The legs are 1/4-20 x 2" socket screws:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019HT9DRU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I put black rubber caps on the socket screws to make soft feet:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HBB9HR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    The magnets to hold my modules together are these:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRT31RM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I used these two forstner bits to countersink the magnet and washers:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AV720/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AV72I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    And I used these pins for alignment because they fit inside the E-Z Lok threaded inserts:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MB8QP7G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I spent some coin, because I want a more professional fit and function to my modules.
     
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  10. GSax

    GSax TrainBoard Member

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    You are always thinking outside the box. It is really inspiring.

    This is a great bill of materials. Many thanks to the links to the source.

    I speculated you were using cap head screws but set screws will work better. I never though set screws could be so big.

    The Amazon source is out but they are available from Amazon's supplier. Go to https://www.fastenere.com and type "1/4” set" in the search window. The list is by size and the 2" item is on page two.
     
  11. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    If I go down the T-Trak route, it will be the larger 245-270mm. But I would think that 'us' would bring a couple of filler modules (likely no more than 2 different filler gaps due to 190-220 tracked modules. At some shows, it might be inevitable to have small and large radii but hopefully can set up 2 layouts, as we have before with Z-Bend Track, etc.
     
  12. poppy2201

    poppy2201 TrainBoard Member

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    Gary I have been using set screws from Fastenal for a while. If you have a local store nearby just go in and you should be able to find them. If not, you can order on line:

    https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/25340
     
  13. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    Finished cutting and gluing together all remaining modules for my 8' loop, consisting of 440mm straights and 300mm x 346mm corners for 245/270mm radius turns. Added topography to all the end modules. I am going to put Stampede Pass tunnels on this end:
    1.jpg
     
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  14. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    Kinda gives me a idea for "4 Seasons" that Lynn St. Laurent made, that AZL used in early shows:
    Quad 45 degree module.jpg

    [​IMG] [​IMG] St Laurent Donner Pass SP smh19161_800.jpg
    [​IMG]
     
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  15. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    Way to go Jeff! Get those creative juices flowing, and design another showstopper module set. By the way, nobody I know can capture California on modules as well as you can, your scenery is spot on. I can't wait to see what you come up with.
     
  16. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    Well, it certainly packs and travels easy. And, takes a while for a train to come through one side so, opposing trains. Gotta build each sided a bit longer to host Matt's 125 car trains !!!
     
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  17. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    So, I am starting on switch machines for my TTZ modules, and I was looking at Fritz Senn Mechanics turnout mechanisms because they are small, and would be better suited to T Trak modules, but they are 20 Euros a pop, and I would have to wait a long time till they arrived from Europe.

    Next I thought about leaching the design and building them myself, but then, again I would have to wait for all the parts to arrive, so I looked in my junk box for turnout stuff, and found a box full of Hoffmann MWA 02-S switch machines that are low profile, but they have a huge fast throw, so I can't use them.

    Then I opened another junk box with about 100 Tortoise machines and 100 Hare decoders, but they will not fit as designed, with the whole assembly hanging down 3.25" underneath my modules that only have 2.5" of space under the box:
    1.jpg

    So I went inside for the day, read the manual for the Hare decoders, and went to sleep. I tossed and turned on it all night, and woke up at 4am with an idea. I ran out to the garage, fired up Corel and the laser, and came up with these:
    2.jpg
    As it happens J5 at bottom of the Hare is electrically the same as the green cars edge connector, and has through holes for soldering wires. The card edge connector on the bottom of the Tortoise switch also has through hole solder pads. And I can bend a 90 degree on the Tortoise throw wire, then mount the Tortoise on it's side. I will still be able to access the J1 terminal strip on the Hare and be able to slide the throw adjuster plate on the Tortoise with this assembly. It's as compact as I can make it, taking up 2.6" x 3.2" and hangs down 2.4" which clears the bottom of my TTZ module box with .1" to spare. Not shown in this photo, it that I later added a .75" square access hole on the top to move the Tortoise motor to the middle of it's travel for mounting:
    3.jpg
     
  18. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    Hey, that’s the ‘on its side’ concept on your Pair-o-Dice module. New and improved !
     
  19. GSax

    GSax TrainBoard Member

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    I have been playing with a variation of the T-Trak Z module. My version is somewhat like a kid's transformer toy. It has three states.
    1. Home - As short as possible. It sits on a book shelf.
    2. Show - Meets interchange specs and practice.
    3. Transport - A compact form that protects the vulnerable scenery.

    I think I generally got it. Some tweaks are needed but it is far enough along to see the concept.

    Starting with the home version, here is the front and back. The height is driven by the Powerpole housing on the back. The track is code 40 from Micro Engineering.

    IMG_0233.jpeg IMG_0228.jpeg

    The T-Trak connection is a 55 mm Rokuhan section with the electrical connection space cut out leaving two 24.5 mm of Rokuhan track for each end. It is screwed in place from the bottom so it will remain in place during the set up and teardown. I soldered Micro Engineering rail joiners to the Rokuhan track segment.

    IMG_0220.jpeg IMG_0231.jpeg

    I built a separate "booster seat" to raise the home version to the 100 mm standard height. The front a back are shown below. The hardboard pieces keep thing aligned. Careful examination of the booster show a 10 mm increase. While you cannot cut lumber wider, you can glue it together if you change your mind.

    IMG_0243.jpeg IMG_0241.jpeg

    And putting things together I have a T-Trak Z compliant module.

    IMG_0237.jpeg IMG_0239.jpeg

    The third and last mode is transport. I need a compact version because I use public transport. I also want to protect scenery that is higher than the track without adding volume to transport. Thus, the "booster" becomes a cap that prevents crushed scenery. I have almost two inches of clearance. The front and back are shown. The hardboard give alignment. Thus same size modules are stackable.


    IMG_0234.jpeg IMG_0236.jpeg

    Happy railroading!
     
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  20. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    I’m thinking the same for some module stacking, likely just 2 modules tho.
     

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