Okay, try your track plan with books under the elevation changes and run trains! That will help you see how you like the plan. That's what I did when starting my layout.
Before we moved, I had an earlier version completely assembled with viaducts and piers for all elevated track. I was pretty happy with it, but it was constrained by choice of tracks available in viaducts or bridges. Since then I have changed up the rearmost track across the back, using some tracks that are not available as bridges or viaducts (e.g. 28R curves). On the finished layout, the only viaducts/bridges are on the bold trackage shown. Everything else will be on grade, whether inclined or flat. Inclined ground-level tracks will be laid atop WS 3% incline starters, trimmed in length to match 1/2" thick, stepped layers of foam board. The location of stub sidings for industries is approximate. I have acquired some WS built-up structures, as well as some Model Power built-ups after MP closed its doors. I want a small business district in the open area inside the loop around the right end, and will purchase more/different built-ups as needed. I haven't decided what will go inside the left end loop. Originally, I was thinking about a locomotive service facility, RIP track, etc. Not sure just yet. I have potentially 4 industrial sites there. So it could be a mix of types of structures. Some day, I'll assemble some structure kits, but for now, the built-ups will do.
I had actually forgotten about your suggestion, but sort of stumbled into it anyway (great minds think alike?!) I like the flexibility of it, for staging/launching more trains, and in either direction onto the mainline. Sure, the yard stubs are shorter, but I think the flexibility will be more than worth it. I will need to acquire a couple more single crossovers.
Well, a minor setback today. I was getting the shop ready to cut the foam board I'd bought the day before. I started to move the floor-standing drill press with a hand truck, to get it out of the way. Well, it's top-heaviness caught me by surprise, and as I backed up to regain my balance, I backed into the foam board leaning up against a shelf. Over we went, onto my back, with the drill press on top of me. The foam board valiantly came to my aid, cushioning my fall. A few minor scrapes, and bruises will heal, but the 4x8 sheet of 2" thick foam board will not. The half-inch foam board sheets are okay, with a minor dent here or there. My son was off work today, so I called him to help me move the drill press (on it's side on the floor afterwards) where I wanted it (and upright.) No damage to it. While he was here, he and I also moved the top 2/3rds of our entertainment center armoire from the shop into the living room, atop its base cabinet. We'd thought we might like just the base in the living room, but decided differently after the moving crew was gone. They say that "Pride goeth before a fall." I would add; "Pride goeth away after the fall!" Stay tuned, another sheet of 2" foam board and I'm back in business!
Glad you are OK and yes drill presses are top heavy. You aren't the first one to go down that road.. Sumner
Agreed! When I attempted to move my late father's drill press to my house, I thought I could tip it onto the tailgate of my pickup, lift its base and slide it in. WRONG! Before I was done, I had my wife and a neighbor adding muscle to get it lifted in. It's sure been a handy tool though. When precision or power is needed, they're a must. They also deserve respect. I was making flag stands for the Scouts and drilling a large hole in the center of each, when the bit grabbed the entire flag stand and whirled it around like a large propeller. I stupidly tried to stop it with my hand and hurt myself. Lesson learned -- lock down objects which might want to cut loose.
Yeah, drill presses are very top-heavy (now I remember!) Luckily it's undamaged, since I cushioned its fall!
Back home with another sheet of 2" foam board, all in one piece! Even though I will have a hollow core door underneath it, I want a 2" base layer of foam so I will be able to tip the layout up and work on wiring underneath the foam, yet still on top of the HCD. The wiring will be brought out to the front somewhere, where I can connect the DCC, and eventually switch controls, etc. to LCC. The track grades will use WS 3% Grade Starters, cut short to climb/descend among the 1/2" foam board layers. There will be higher terrain behind the rear tracks and into the rear corners. I may use some scraps of 2" foam for some of that, but I also like the stratified look I might get from stacking up 1/2" layers, or a mix of 1/2" and 2" layers. I'll experiment with some scraps to see what works/looks best. At least that's the plan.
How do you plan on cutting the channels for the wiring? Maybe don't cut them. Take maybe some 1/2 inch plywood or particle board and cut into squares. Maybe 2"x 2". Glue those to the door in a checkerboard pattern. They will support the foam and give you a lot of passages for wiring all over under the foam. Just an idea, maybe not a good one?? Sumner
Somewhere among those ideas lies the solution! Not sure yet which though. I'd been thinking about square foam spacer pads glued to the underside of the bottom foam layer, but your idea of gluing them to the top of the HCD might make more sense.
In retrospect instead of gluing them I would drill them, maybe two holes. Countersink the holes and use Flathead screws to secure them to the door. That way if one is in the way of where you want to run a wire down you could move it. Screw a fascia to the sides of the door that would go up on the sides of the foam. You could unscrew one side easily and use your fingers under the foam board to pivot it up. Sumner
Good ideas to consider. Screws through the foamboard pads, into a doorskin don't hold very well, and will work loose. Perhaps a weak adhesive (rubber cement?) would allow the blocks to be easily pried up and moved if necessary. Or just cut a clearance groove into the top of the pad. Lots of ways to skin this cat, but you're right, in needs consideration. Ditto with having the at least part of the wooden facia on the HCD easily removable. Maybe the backside would be left open, with no facia. (and the wiring passed up/down via the rear edge as well.) There is a shelf in the stand underneath for the command station, throttle stowage, etc. Details like these are among the greatest benefits of this forum!
There are small sanding drums for Dremel type tools that could easily and quickly [and messy too] through the foam board. Just lay whatever wires need to go in the channel and cover with posterboard, caulk, whatever.
I agree if you are using the foam pads since they can compress and hard to pull a screw down tight in them. If the spacers were particle board or plywood I'd have no problem using #4 flat-head wood screws. Drill the right size pilot hole in the door skin and since they have more thread per inch they would pull down tight. Since they are in compression and not tension with the foam and the layout on top of them I can't see them ever coming loose and a lot easier to move if needed. Just my opinion but can't see having to deal with cutting grooves in the bottom of the foam with trackwork, buildings and other scenery items on the top of it initially or in the future. If you have to tilt it up high enough to do that then anything on the others side would have to be secured well. With blocks under it that would creating lots of passages for the wiring you would only need to tilt it up a bit to fish a wire to the side. I love my hot wire foam knives and they don't leave any mess but probably wouldn't want to use them in a small room unless I had good ventilation. In my shop with a small USB fan blowing fumes away from me they work great. Used them a ton on the foam scenery base. Sumner
I got the 2" foam board base layer cut to size today, and it's sitting atop the HCD in the train room! The three half-inch sheets are also cut to the same overall dimension. They each will be cut in two, more or less diagonally*, and stacked up in up to 6 layers on the rear/right of the layout. Then I can figure out where to cut them along the slope of the track for the incline of the tracks. WS 3% grade strips will be trimmed in length to match the half-inch foam board layers. Then that trimmed strip shows me where to trim back the foam board to on the next layer. Clear as mud? Note, I will use the actual foam board thickness to tell me where (at what height, and therefore length) to trim each incline strip's length. The foam board is "nominally" 1/2" thick, but minor deviation from that will not matter with this process. This process should compensate for variations in foam board and riser thickness. I think these 1/2" thick layers will end up being something like 12" wide on left end, and 24" wide front to back on the right end, so only sorta diagonal. Of course that straight line will be altered to clear the ground level tracks in the rear.
