Jerry, What make scarlet and grey paints are you using for touch-up? The match to the original Atlas looks dead on.
The red is Testers red, and the gray is actually Floquil Grimy Black. The red is right on, but the Grimy Black is slightly darker....thats where weathering comes in.
From a personal stand point, here's my take on color....if it's close, it's good enough. I used to be alot more picky about color, until I started working for the railroad. I became even less picky when I started working in both steam and diesel shops! Locomotives fade differently, get new parts added, taken away, scratched, rust, etc. I think different colors on locomotives can actually make them look more realistic. IMHO.
Great work, Jerry! Intimidating, depressing even... but great!!! How do you get that perfect curve of the diesel filler overflow on the tank? I've tried that several times and it's never looked right.
Hello William! I use those Microbrushes....look like a one ended small Q-Tip. I dip it in weathering chalk, then run it straight up and down from the filler to the bottom of the tank. I then keep the same up and down motion but start feathering out on both sides of the first line, sort of making an upside down 'V'. If it looks right when I finish, I shoot it with Dulcoat. If I don't like it, wipe with a wet paper towel, start over.
Next time we come over for dinner, I'll give you a quick lesson.....but you have to have some Chantilly cake!
Tomorrow I have alot of appts. at the doctors, and I don't know how I will feel when I get back, but hopifully I will be able to get these painted. We'll see.
numberboards.... Great job on the Cadillac, Jerry! Very nice work! For numberboards, here's what I use: http://www.shellscale.com/numberboard page.htm
The real SP U30C's had no numberboards on the rear. I'm not going to worry with removing the Kato ones, painting them is good enough. The Kato red is much different then the Atlas red. To get a close match, I mixed Floquil Signal red and CN Orange together about 3-1.
Front light and brake wheel painted with this same color. The grey is different on this model too. I painted the top light with Floquil SP Lark Grey. Now, I have to get to my appt's!
Water-release decals. Here's what they look like: And a poor hack-job with a Microscale set::thumbs_down:
Awesome looking boards! Yeah, making number boards with MicroScale is a pain in the :err:. Gotta get me some of those!
I agree those boards look great. I am back from my appt's. and don't feel as bad as I expected, so rebuilding continues.
Espee's first order of U30C's had an 8/2 battery arrangment. (Eight battery doors across the bottom, 2 at the top.) The extra battery compartment on top was close to the cab. The second order of U30C's came with a 6/2 arrangment, and the top compartment was set farther from the cab. Kato's model is numbered for a first order U30C, however, the model has the 6 lower battery doors of the second order. So, I am placing the top battery compartment farther from the cab like the second order U30C's. I am going to leave it the same number. Sorry rivit counters. ::
