An HH660 has already been built by Chris333. Scratch built chassis and body out of resin and brass. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9eMdvUx5_I http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qfRRU7RH-A
Thats pretty neat but too much of a one-off. Something using the primary components of a commericial mech with a 3D printed shell and an easy to produce cast frame would be the way to go. I do marvel at the work some people do with brass, esp. in N and Z scale where the details are so fine.
There in lies the problem. There is no frame that is the correct wheel base, thus the reason Chris scratch built his own.
What we may need if printing of body shells catches on is for someone to make something like the Tomytec Japanese tram mechanism but narrower to fit a US hood unit, its length is adjustable and the truck sideframes are seperate so you can use the correct type. http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10131862
If anyone needs Blunt sideframes, I can cast a few I have on hand. It would be a few months as I am refinishing the basement so I wouldn't be able to start until Sep/Oct.
I mention the VO-660 and somehow it morphs into talk of an HH-660! Different engines but both quite cool. Which one to build first? Rock-paper-scissors anyone? haha... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baldwin_VO-660 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ALCO_HH_series
Amen, John C. I worked on a FM as a fireman for many weeks in Fostoria during the summers of 64,65 and 66 with "Brownie" as the engineer.
I, for one, wouldn't mind about 8 Blunt sideframes. Might just push me over the edge on putting together an S2 (or S4 <hint>) and an HH660. I could use either one with my B&M equipment.
So for all of those who might be interested - this afternoon I finished S-4 version 2.0; I plan to order myself a sample in the next few days As you can see the handrails are now completely separate and molded to a sprue. Individual stanchions are also included (with a few spares) for anyone who wants to thread their own brass wire. I also made a custom fitted cover for the fuel tank which will hopefully snap into the shell and keep the mechanism firmly in place. In addition the coupler mounts were raised slightly and the shell's internal supports updated. You guys might also notice that I also mustered the bravery to attempt Blunt sideframes. I tried to directly copy the critical measurements from the stock Life-Like frames (but I'm expecting that some adjustments might be necessary haha). Other than that, it's time to play the "two-week waiting game..."
One thing that I am seeing that no one has addressed as of yet is the cab windows and this is a "kill the deal" for my interest if it is not addressed. Most, if not all (I have yet to see an S4 without this feature though the earliest units may have lacked it), had sealed windows with raised beads, like that found on the RS2. This is one thing that was not done correctly on the Atlas HO model and it would greatly affect any interest I might have if it were not done on a N scale model. Update... Well, I can now say that I have found a S4 (actually several S4s) that did not have sealed windows... B&M 1266 - 1273 built in 8/1950. Still searching for more shots... but I might just reconsider my feelings about it now that I have proof of the older window type. The first switchers that had sealed windows were the S4s built in 10/1950 for the PRR, with all others having this feature.
I am all about this project. Cant wait to be able to order one, actually have a Life Like mech sitting around waiting.
Matthew, Version 2.0 looks pretty good to me. I'm interested to hear how this looks after you have received it and how it compares to the original. Do you have any idea on what the cost of version 2.0 will be? I may need to get a couple of LifeLike switchers to gear up for this project... Scott
On the subject of sealed windows: is this more what you guys had in mind? When I was doing my research I came across pictures of both sealed and unsealed versions (as you pointed out Jerry). Since I happened to be feeling lazy the day I cut the windows I left them unsealed. Easy update though - only took about fifteen minutes. As for the "raised beads," I'm concerned that they're just a bit too small to come through cleanly - I attempted a small raised frame around the cab's headlight and it just didn't come out very well (to my eye at least). bumthum - thanks for the kind words - I'll keep you guys posted Scott - As for the price, I really hate to box myself in but offhand I'm going to guess something right around $30. An S-2 version with the blunt trucks will be $1-2 more expensive to cover the added cost of materials.
Matthew, I continue to be amazed. Can't wait for the actual castings, er "prints" . That is some pioneering work being done here! Regards, Otto
Thanks Otto! I suppose "castings" is probably more technically accurate - for some reason though I just associate castings with "things that come from molds" so I mentally jumped to a new nomenclature I guess... haha SteamDonkey - just don't get TOO excited until I can get my new blunt side frames to actually work. They need to clear the gears, hold the contacts/axles in place and keep everything in alignment - it's gonna be a challenge to make that work I think... That said, I have high hopes
How long till the shell is ready for production? I am not concerned about the blunt trucks, an S-4 is fine by me
Pretty exciting! I think you're on the right track with the separate stanchions (allowing easy application of brass handrails) and truck frames. It'll be interesting to see what "shrinkage" you get with them, which is, I assume, what you are hedging your bets about! Ya never know exactly what the shrinkage factor is, but with this process, it certainly is easier to re-model the part than have to build a whole new brass master! I've got an old (but pristine and excellent) Key Alco S-3 that I've been threatening to paint for several years. One of the very nice things about it is that its got an interior (seats, floor, some control details, which through the cab window is pretty plain to see. Whatcha think? Shouldn't be too difficult to model a separate interior to plug into the inside of the cab. Also, my brass model has three lines of rivets on the cab roof running side to side. Did Alco go with a welded roof on the S-4? Or..will adding mo' rivets get you past your million triangle limit? In any case, I am impressed with your work and attitude. Getting direct feedback from potential customers is the way to go IMHO. I just hope that Shapeways will print this in the proper orientation to get rid of all that horrendous "stepping" that was on your last test print. Cheers! Bob Gilmore
