This is my mock-up/test kitbash for a New Haven streamline lightweight car, in this case one of the 8600-series coaches used after 1948. The round roof ends, the two vestibules, the wide windows, thin-fluted skirting and the completely fluted sides with wide letter boards make this a hard rebuild, but I didn't want to scratchbuild the whole thing. The heavily-reworked shell sits on a Kato coach frame so I can use Kato trucks and lighting system. I'm using an ALM roof here but plan on having a Kato Pullman roof eventually. Yes, right NOW it looks like a car on the dead line (in fact the window band on the other side isn't installed yet) but this was just an attempt to see if a bunch of ideas to make this car would work. The next mock-up version will be the lounge-baggage car (at least it only has one vestibule). Luckily Kato now makes 41-BNO trucks (though not in black) so the skirt cutouts can be correct size, not oversized. No way I can see having a diner or grill car w/o complete scratchbuilding, tho. Observation still not contemplated.
Thanks steve. I have to say I really like this new Tru-Color paint. Really speeds up the finishing process. Next on the to-build list is an RS-36, that one will likely be the biggest challenge yet. A GBW C430 would be pretty cool too.
I agree about the paint, with its previous incarnation of Accu-Paint I once painted a loco with primer, two colours (masked in between), decalled and satin finished in a day getting something done for a show. I've posted this over on the paint thread but this is probably a better place for it. I'm in the middle of painting a pair of C&S U30C's in Burlington Chinese Red for a club member. I wouldn't have wanted to paint something for someone else before I got back onto Tru-Color aka Accu-Paint because you have zero chance of doing a substandard job with it.
Westfalen, I have a question. I know this has been covered a million times, but how do you get mask lines like that over all those details. I'll be doing some BN stuff in the future and my lines will be in about the same spot.
A combination of Tamiya masking tape pressed firmly over any details and an initial light coat of paint that dries before it can run under the tape.
I see !!! I'm guessing the light coat of paint aids in holding the tape, right ??? I'm sure there's a bit of cussing involved the first few times, though. I've got that part down pretty well !!! Thanks !!!
I started work on some Norfolk Southern tie gondolas. I started with a Walther's Seico flat car, what the prototypes were built from, and the rest is stryrene and etched parts from BLMA and GMM. Still a lot of work to do but getting there.
Just adding the finishing touches to an SD40-2 project, ILSX 1337. I just have to finish the handrails and add air hoses...
Danged continuing rain really messing with my fishing. So started doing some PM on my small fleet of SD-7s with a disassemble, clean and lube. Lifelike pre Walthers had some terrible issues with their soldering with wires coming off without any sign of really adhering to the brass contacts. Most notable with their F units where the wires moved with the truck rotation. The SD7/9 s have a better pick-up with wipers from the truck to the underside of the chassis contact. Still though have found one were a motor brass strip had come loose from the brass truck contact strips. Again the strip was almost clean as if the solder joint was almost glued in place. Repair made and two more to go.
I have several of these Life Like SD7s. They can be made to run very smoothly. Andre Kritzinger Capetown 2011 photos. How to improve a LL SD7. Kritzinger home page. You can spend an afternoon here.
An interesting adaptation for the trucks and one that I will keep in mind. Another is to rebend the tabs more upright which I have done. The other is to use coupler springs and that is off Mark's site Spookshow.
This is a very similar method I used to improve the Bachmann DD40AX's in DCC. It works wonders. Thanks for sharing, Mike
Run8 - just my two cents on masking. I spray my light colored paint first then mask it off where I want a darker color. Before painting the darer color I spray a very light coat of the first color to seal around the tape. If it bleeds it is the same color as my first application. I then spray the darker color. I do burnish the tape very well before spraying the "sealing" coat. Clear as mud, uh? Carl
Makes perfect sense !!! I will use it on 1/24 race cars, as well !!! For now, I've got 24 Bowser PC hoppers being converted to M/Ts. Just requires drilling out the existing holes to take the larger M/T bolster pin. I guess you can say this is a very "BORING" task !!! Sorry !!! Couldn't resist that !!!
