The mock up atlas are 19 radius sectional. I like to use them for mock-ups to make sure I am giving myself room for a nice gentle curve. The unitrack is a 13.75” with a 64mm to break up the S. There is a better mock-up. hard to take pics whilst holding flex in place with other hand.
Not much going on with my modules this weekend, too much other stuff to fix. Best news is I no longer have a leaking toilet. So I did get to test my control box with DC. It works great, just flip the switch and you go from DCC to DC. My NYC 20th Century Limited is enjoying the rails as we speak. This is a long train... right now I have 2 end caps, and 2 double modules on each side and the train crosses the half way point on both sides at the same time. So it never gets completely straight. I think this is now my longest passenger train, beating out my ICE4 train. I will test it later when I have the time to get my other table out of my shed.
An S-curve between opposite direction 19" radius curves is roughly equivalent to a transition directly from straight/tangent to 9.5" radius. Small equipment will be fine, but big bruiser locos and long railcars (especially with long overhangs) may have problems. The minimum radius on T-Trak is 11", on the "inside curve". I use a formula for estimating the severity of an S curve between two radii R1 & R2, using an equivalent severity transition from straight/tangent to a curve of radius Req. 1/Req = 1/R1 + 1/R2 or Req = 1/(1/R1 + 1/R2) When R1=R2, then it simplifies to: Req = R1 / 2 If the formula looks familiar, it is the same formula used for calculating the equivalent resistance of two resistors in parallel.
See other pic Jake, and thanks for the looking out. Always appreciate feedback the reason I have bought such big corners is my ac12 and diaphragmed ABA F3s, so to have a smaller effective radius than 13.75 anywhere would be a killer for me. It is now a single piece of atlas 19 section off the Tomix adapter, to a piece of flex set with roughly 4” straight and roughly 24” radius so no s curve anymore.
Hi guys! New member here. Intro at https://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?threads/new-member-from-maryland.136371/ I’m enjoying this thread and looking forward to sharing more T-TRAK in the future. Ed
And the rest. Brown top modules have the track secured and wired. Every module except the bridges have power feeds if needed. Wired BWWB. The unpainted modules are being used to plan a yard. I have looked at four different plans I’ve found online, but I think I’m going to settle for Steve Jackson’s “Skinny Yard” from the TT Wiki. The one you see here, loaded up with trains, is too close to the edge. Thanks for any feedback. Ed
Ed, it’s ok to use full images when you post your pics. It actually makes it easier for us to see them. Your modules are looking good so far.
Ed, great stuff. Envious of your modules already. I need to order more kato to Tomix adapters, some extension wires, some unijoiners with wires, and some short sections of track, 168 &124, some 64s, and so on. I think I’m going to put a double crossover on one of the singles. Maybe can do that next week or week after. since I can’t finish wiring or laying track until then, I decided to play with the sculptamold tonight since I had never used it before. Not bad stuff. Seems like it is basically poly fill with plaster powder in it. Works well though. Built up the back side of the hillocks to hide the rear track... at least from low angles /camera angles... will need to add more in the front to smooth the terrain out but overall pleased with the initial proof of concept. Camera/beauty shot angle.
That looks about right... personally I would leave it be, after you get the other scenery materials on it, it will look perfect.
Wow! There is a LOT of eye candy in this thread! Too bad so many of the posters don’t seem to be around anymore. Thank you all for the inspiration! Two Jackson Junctions are now on order and I completely re-arranged my yard, too!