N Scale T-Trak

billmtx Oct 28, 2010

  1. Onizukachan

    Onizukachan TrainBoard Supporter

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    The mock up atlas are 19 radius sectional. I like to use them for mock-ups to make sure I am giving myself room for a nice gentle curve.

    The unitrack is a 13.75” with a 64mm to break up the S.


    There is a better mock-up.

    hard to take pics whilst holding flex in place with other hand.

    8DE22BA0-F29C-40A4-BF3F-6103F42906E9.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2021
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  2. Massey

    Massey TrainBoard Member

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    Not much going on with my modules this weekend, too much other stuff to fix. Best news is I no longer have a leaking toilet. So I did get to test my control box with DC. It works great, just flip the switch and you go from DCC to DC. My NYC 20th Century Limited is enjoying the rails as we speak. This is a long train... right now I have 2 end caps, and 2 double modules on each side and the train crosses the half way point on both sides at the same time. So it never gets completely straight. I think this is now my longest passenger train, beating out my ICE4 train. I will test it later when I have the time to get my other table out of my shed.
     
  3. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

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    An S-curve between opposite direction 19" radius curves is roughly equivalent to a transition directly from straight/tangent to 9.5" radius.

    Small equipment will be fine, but big bruiser locos and long railcars (especially with long overhangs) may have problems.

    The minimum radius on T-Trak is 11", on the "inside curve".

    I use a formula for estimating the severity of an S curve between two radii R1 & R2, using an equivalent severity transition from straight/tangent to a curve of radius Req.

    1/Req = 1/R1 + 1/R2

    or

    Req = 1/(1/R1 + 1/R2)

    When R1=R2, then it simplifies to:

    Req = R1 / 2

    If the formula looks familiar, it is the same formula used for calculating the equivalent resistance of two resistors in parallel.
     
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  4. Onizukachan

    Onizukachan TrainBoard Supporter

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    See other pic Jake, and thanks for the looking out. Always appreciate feedback
    the reason I have bought such big corners is my ac12 and diaphragmed ABA F3s, so to have a smaller effective radius than 13.75 anywhere would be a killer for me.


    It is now a single piece of atlas 19 section off the Tomix adapter, to a piece of flex set with roughly 4” straight and roughly 24” radius so no s curve anymore.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2021
  5. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

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    Richard,

    Sorry, missed that. It looks much nicer!
     
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  6. Ed Youngstrom

    Ed Youngstrom TrainBoard Member

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  7. Ed Youngstrom

    Ed Youngstrom TrainBoard Member

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    And here are the plywood plains as of this afternoon.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Ed Youngstrom

    Ed Youngstrom TrainBoard Member

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    And the rest.

    Brown top modules have the track secured and wired. Every module except the bridges have power feeds if needed. Wired BWWB.

    The unpainted modules are being used to plan a yard. I have looked at four different plans I’ve found online, but I think I’m going to settle for Steve Jackson’s “Skinny Yard” from the TT Wiki. The one you see here, loaded up with trains, is too close to the edge.

    Thanks for any feedback.

    Ed
     

    Attached Files:

  9. MK

    MK TrainBoard Member

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    You are off to a great start there Ed!
     
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  10. Massey

    Massey TrainBoard Member

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    Ed, it’s ok to use full images when you post your pics. It actually makes it easier for us to see them. Your modules are looking good so far.
     
  11. BNSF FAN

    BNSF FAN TrainBoard Supporter

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    Nice modules Ed! The bridges are cool!
     
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  12. BNSF FAN

    BNSF FAN TrainBoard Supporter

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    That is going to look good sir! (y)
     
  13. Onizukachan

    Onizukachan TrainBoard Supporter

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    Ed, great stuff. Envious of your modules already.



    I need to order more kato to Tomix adapters, some extension wires, some unijoiners with wires, and some short sections of track, 168 &124, some 64s, and so on. I think I’m going to put a double crossover on one of the singles. Maybe can do that next week or week after.

    since I can’t finish wiring or laying track until then, I decided to play with the sculptamold tonight since I had never used it before. Not bad stuff. Seems like it is basically poly fill with plaster powder in it. Works well though.

    Built up the back side of the hillocks to hide the rear track... at least from low angles /camera angles...
    will need to add more in the front to smooth the terrain out but overall pleased with the initial proof of concept.


    95313BD6-8979-4F70-A7EA-DD767ED193AF.jpeg


    55F85F5F-67B8-471B-B039-29E5D9DF9162.jpeg


    Camera/beauty shot angle.

    929F6622-EF4A-4F71-91C2-2AE86EFA8A46.jpeg
     
  14. Ed Youngstrom

    Ed Youngstrom TrainBoard Member

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    Looking good. So far I’ve only tried the plaster cloths and some spackle.
     
  15. Onizukachan

    Onizukachan TrainBoard Supporter

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    Needs smoothing over with spackling, but we put color on it anyway to be able to better see it.


    622ED7A9-B00A-476F-BEB9-5E1D57A1C75E.jpeg


    895D5D12-3900-4BC0-9001-3848A5939F7E.jpeg
     
  16. Massey

    Massey TrainBoard Member

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    That looks about right... personally I would leave it be, after you get the other scenery materials on it, it will look perfect.
     
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  17. Ed Youngstrom

    Ed Youngstrom TrainBoard Member

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    Wow! There is a LOT of eye candy in this thread!

    Too bad so many of the posters don’t seem to be around anymore.

    Thank you all for the inspiration! Two Jackson Junctions are now on order and I completely re-arranged my yard, too!
     
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  18. Massey

    Massey TrainBoard Member

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    What is a "Jackson Junction"
     
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  19. Ed Youngstrom

    Ed Youngstrom TrainBoard Member

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  20. Onizukachan

    Onizukachan TrainBoard Supporter

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    Ah. I’ve always heard and seen them referred to as a TJunction.
     
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