Okay to me the title seems like a recipe for disaster. I am an absolute novice in the Model Train world. I received from my wife a few christmas' back a PRR E-7 A Loco and 4 coaches and an observation car. I inherited a ton of flex track and assorted track from my wife's Gradnfather when he switched to HO scale. I only have a 2' h x 6' w space with which to layout. I think I am either limited to point to point, point to point with a loop. I have no experience laying out track. I do failry well in modeling as I used to be an avid WW2 modeler. I am eager to do a PRR town based off a town I live near (Jenkintown PA). Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated. Again, I will take all advice.
2x6 is almost the size of a doorpanel. If you search this section for doorpanel layouts you'll find lots of stuff on that size. Otherwise you can probably squeeze in some small curves and do an oval in that space.
Here a site with a number of 2x4 layouts that can be stretch http://www.naisp.net/mfischer/m_train2.htm The 2' depth may pose a problem for long passenger cars and engines as a 11" Radius is max for that depth.
You can have a lot of fun in that space. It could keep you busy for a very long time. No better way to start off in MRR, in my opinion. Build a loop, a couple of spurs if you want, build some structures and add some scenery. Have fun, ask questions!
If you want continous running, beg for a wider space. If that doesn't work, hide the sharp curves behind some scenery. Then put some really broad sweeping curves along the front of the layout. This is visually interesting and it keeps your track from being parallel to the front. Eric
Try some N scale Kato Unitrack to make a small test layout that is very easy to set up and change, with bulletproof track reliability. It's so fast to setup and change, it will help you get a feel for what you like and don't like in your track plan.
An alternative to "roundy roundy" with tight curves is a shelf switcher. Some examples here (most designed for HO so can be done in N in half the space). http://andrews-trains.fotopic.net/p18402993.html http://andrews-trains.fotopic.net/p10123360.html http://www.carendt.com/microplans/pages/shelf/passenger/index.html#4 The latter two will suit the stock you already have. Cheers David
I just noticed a 24 by 60 inch layout for sale on ebay. Here's the link :http://cgi.ebay.com/N-Scale-Layout_W0QQitemZ270083536991QQihZ017QQcategoryZ19127QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem You have another foot of length so would be able to create some industry spurs in addition to the simple figure eight this person built.
I agree with John (ATSF_Arizona) about the Unitrack. It would be a great way to perform trial and error and it goes togeter and comes apart fast!!
Thank you all for the great responses. I am reading each one. I am thinking about enlarging my table top to make it 2.5' x 7'. Don't know yet. There are some fantastic tips here. I am going to look for the Kato track this weekend. I am also going to sketch out a layout idea. One question though - in terms of the turn radius of my curves - this is something I don't understand. Can someone explain this to me in terms that a third grader would understand? (Yes, my wife claims I as useful as a dyslexic in scrabble tournament.)
The Unitrack idea is one that should be seriously considered. When trying to make small space work for you there will be a tendency to use flex track. There will be a tendency to flex it to less than 9 3/4" radii here and there to make it fit. This will enable you to lay your track, but will give you operational issues later on with engines not be able to take too tight turns.
Radius is from the center of a circle of track to a point midway between the rails. I wouldn't recommend less than 15" radius for passenger cars. And no, that won't fit in a space 30" wide.
With the space you mention, you're so very close to the space a hollow-core door would fit in. Those kinds of doors are usually used intide a house, and can be found for decent prices at your local Lowe's or Home Depot. Actually, curves down to 11" radius would work in a spot or two. I would use them where they're not so readily noticed. I recommend checking out other posts in the Layout Design Forum for trackplans for hollow-core-door layouts.
Curve radius - how tight the turn is.... a larger radius means a gentler turn. If you take a bunch of sectional track of X radius, connect it into a circle, the diameter of the circle will be exactly twice the curve radius, across the center of the track.
I'm new too, & I have a 2' x 6' constraint for my layout. I planned a layout using the Atlas Right Track software http://www.atlasrr.com/righttrack.htm My layout is basically it's an oval with industry spurs. I ordered a bunch of Atlas code 55 11.25" radius track to make the outer 180 degree curves. I figured if I push the track against the back of the layout, I'll have 1.5" at the front to play with. I was wrong, I didn't take into account the width of the ties, or the throw bar for the switches. The result is that it it just barely fits within the 2' board (maybe a 1/4" to spare (total). Trains are about to run off the edge & already had one engine fly off the rails to the floor (busting the front knuckle), and the throwbars for the switches hang out over the front edge by about 3/8". I'm adjusting my layout and have ordered 10" radius. There is much more room now, and trains are not so close to the edge. I'm also extending the outer curves from a half circle 180 degree turn to 225 degrees to allow room for a transition curve. So I use 8 pieces of 10" radius track for the 180 degree turn then continue the curve with an 11.25" radius (or maybe greater) track section at each end. My advice is use max 10" or 9 3/4" if your going to run trains around a circle, oval, figure 8 on that small of a layout. Also, I bought 24" by 80" a hollow core door for the layout, but took it back & bought 1/4" birch plywood instead. Which I cut to size and now it curls up at the ends and will take a pretty substantial framing and gluing to keep it flat, that got me worried about frame members interfering with undertrack items (switch machines, decoders, terminals), cost and time to build it well. Now, I'm going to try a foam base which I'll frame under and wrap with a veneer after the undertrack items are in place. If you do go with a wood base though, I'd stick with a door. Its pretty easy to shorten a door (I've done this for house remodels). Just cut one end to length (use a fine tooth blade and tape the cut to prevent splintering); peel the veneer away from the bottom block of the cut piece and glue and clamp it into the hollow portion you are keeping.
GPA- Welcome, if it has not bee said before. I have a 4x6 but also have had an engine go over an edge. If there are no other options at all for larger size, there are three things that I can suggest: 1. Absolutely temporary and ugly as sin- take a piece of pink or blue foamboard, cut to 1-3" or so in height over the layout level and tape with duct tape at the danger areas. 2. Semi permanent and not so ugly, make a less than full height backdrop (in order to have hand access into the layout if not finished)to run the length of the offending sides. 3. Permanent and plain, get a reasonably thin piece or pieces of Lexan type material and screw it into the edge at the danger areas. Remember that the goal is to prevent an engine or cars from taking a header off the layout. The Lexan need not be more than an inch in height over the layout level, just enough to stop the second roll and tumble into the abyss.
This layout is only 2'-3" x 4' You can see some older photos here: http://community.webshots.com/user/chris333333 including the trackplan: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1063290518044296030efXQMn Nothing wrong with small layouts ; )
Chris, Thanks for the comments. I like your layout it works great in that size. I hope to have a drawing of my layout within the next day or so.
