Here're the two tables joined and upside down as I work on the fascia panels. Fortunately I won't have a whole lot of tracks to deal with where the tables connect. I'm hoping that the legs are stiff enough. There will be bookshelves under the layout and cross bracing would block access to the shelves. I think things will work out okay.
How about putting panels on the end legs. Then a panel through the middle attached to both end panels. I did similar on a fold up table and then attached the book shelves and file cabinets to the middle panel. Maybe you could also attach a shelf near the floor to add even more stability and it keeps things up off the floor, incase there's dampness like in my warehouse shed. Pegboard panels works well for this because it has a lot of holes already. Tywraps come in handy that way.
Wow! That came out real nice. Particularly like the casters on legs. Are the legs wood too? The modular approach that you mentioned yesterday intrigued me. Guess the key is to have the track segment end plastic edge of Kato track exactly at table edges?
Thank you. I need the casters so that I can pull the table away from the wall to access the rear for maintenance. I'm tying to keep all of the building materials as light as I can to make it easy to roll and to carry when it's moved. Yes, the legs are also wood. I tapered them from 4" at the top to 3" at the bottom just to add a bit of detail. I've really enjoyed the woodworking segment of the build.
We have come a long way... Beautiful creeping from the Bachmann and Broadway Limited thru the Kato double crossover.... Thanks to all for the help!
UPDATE... After 360 days and 4 service trips there is now hope for the SD35... Think its time to remove the handrail protective foam pieces?? Not yet... 1 other issue persists...
Wow, that's flawless Mark. Handrails, ugh. I somehow or other messed up mine on one of my LV Snowbird C-628s when I packed it up years ago, breaking one of the end railing pieces. I recently bought a replacement railing, though it'll be a while before I attempt to replace it because the end railings are painted orange in areas and they'll first need to be painted flat black, and maybe with a flex additive. Lots for me to do incorrectly. One thing I learned in a failed project from years back is that manufacturing tolerances are so tight that even the thickness of paint will prevent the tiny pins on the railings from being inserted into the body shell.
Thank you! I set myself up for the most stressful part of the hobby, exclusive use of essentially era 3 CNJ stuff so attempting repair or even when handling the SD35, GP7, (with their rails), F3 or any of the rolling stock causes some degree of anxiety. The only advantage is that limited CNJ availability = less money out of pocket. Heck, can't even find a used Atlas CNJ VO-1000..
I was going to suggest that the sole culprit in all of your troubles is that CNJ caboose. I'm quite certain of it and will be glad to take it off your hands. I have two VO-1000s, (2002/2003 first gen DC made by Ajin for Atlas) in ACL and GN. This initial series was produced in a bunch or road names, of which LV, PRR, RDG or EJ&E would be of interest to me. But, in many years of searching for these shells I've never found even one. The CNJ came with the new gen release in 2007 as made in China. The old gen and new gen body shells are interchangeable so it is said, though I'd need to break off some tabs to make a new shell fit my old chassis and I dunno about the end result of that.
Not a chance, you know I absolutely love that caboose. I'd most likely keep it if I left the hobby and put it on my bookcase. Saw a O sized one used at a hobby shop and didn't buy it. :-( Rather give up the SD35. Plus, the F3 and GP7 love pulling the caboose. Think this is the first time ever pulled 3 cars with SD35. Asked Atlas a little about if I found a CNJ VO 1000 shell and bought any VO 1000 chassis.. He told me not all shells are the same ( eg. tabs no tabs) and best to swap with chassis of road names within the same production run. Also said to stay away from the Korean versions. Spookynet review says China versions are smoother running too!
It's been forever since I've operated mine, boxed up with everything else. Undec shells for my series can be found and the good news is that if I embarked on a paint project, the (latter) LV, CNJ and RDG schemes are pretty easy.
Bought a 2017 vintage VO 1000 yesterday.. Unbelievable double crossover creep performance. VO passes the test at speed step 1/127 WOW!
