Kato Double crossover Stutters ONLY on one Route or Path

Mark Ricci Apr 24, 2021

  1. Mark Ricci

    Mark Ricci TrainBoard Member

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    First time heard of Kato Pocket Line series. Thanks. Went to Kato site to seek out and they have this incredibly cool loco, Iowa Traction Engine ..

    [​IMG]

     
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  2. Hardcoaler

    Hardcoaler TrainBoard Member

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    Say, I was just thinking that you might want to use the CNJ's pre-war logo, like this one.

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. Hardcoaler

    Hardcoaler TrainBoard Member

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    I agree -- it's really neat. Almost makes me want to add a an electrified spur somewhere.
     
  4. Mark Ricci

    Mark Ricci TrainBoard Member

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    Thank you! Funny, saw that one some months back when researching CNJ history. Saw on some Pullman pics..
     
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  5. Hardcoaler

    Hardcoaler TrainBoard Member

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    Hi @Mark Ricci , still out there? Hope so, despite your locomotive setbacks. :(
     
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  6. Mark Ricci

    Mark Ricci TrainBoard Member

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    Thank you for seeking me out. How are you?

    Yes, still persevering. Have given up on SD35 and put it on eBay. After 3 service attempts, manufacturer claims all is good but it derails (only in reverse) on all 9.75 inch radii connections and makes some random "unwanted" noise-vibration on straight track. I'm fairly satisfied with both the F3 and the replacement GP7 though the GP7 received, like the first 1, has the motor mount-frame issue that causes the significant shell vibration at slow speeds. One thing about this GP7, the slow speed operation is nothing less than outstanding. At speed step 1, it takes an 1hr and 8 min to do the double ovals on my small 2x4 layout!!!! Amazing, it like never stalls. Every N scaler should have one in their box. A little reluctant to ship back to Bachmann based on the SD35 service outcome.

    Outside that, been chugging along. Added the DAB002 Tam Valley Booster which seems to be working flawlessly. Installed Bluestacks, an Android emulator, on a small Win 10 laptop so that Engine Driver can be used to relieve my iPhone from that duty. Built a MOW structure, the Osborn Model 3108, just love the look. Of course, it revealed another minus with Kato track; station, depot platforms and the MOW structure need to be raised. Unsure whether to add terrain or foundation. While maybe not critical for the platforms, definitely need to raise the mow.

    Purchased Micro Sol and Micro Set for the CNJ decals but now I understand that the only good way is to apply a gloss overcoat over the entire combine car. Uncertain on next step but bought a couple of Classic Metal Works R-190's to learn???

    Lastly, been wanting to relocate for a while and feel like it needs to happen soon so been doing packing and disposal. Some serious thinking about moving back to New Jersey.

    What's new in your layout?
     
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  7. Mark Ricci

    Mark Ricci TrainBoard Member

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  8. freddy_fo

    freddy_fo TrainBoard Member

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    Mark, be aware if you don't have much experience that the micro-set is pretty aggressive and will murder some of these softer/thin water-slide decals. Only if the film is thick and/or decals are not taking the contours do I use the micro-set. Always best to test with a decal you can sacrifice from the same set if possible and you are unsure.

    Using a clear coat helps to hide decal film edges as well as give a uniform finish to the paint and decal but judicious application of the clear especially on items so small is key to a top notch result. Airbrush is the best means of that and a thinned acrylic based clear coat as you can control the the flow unlike a rattle can. Usually I take the time to cut as much excess film off the decal as I can with a hobby knife and sharp #11 blade even if they are pre-cut.
     
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  9. Mark Ricci

    Mark Ricci TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for the info. Would you use a gloss or satin, or Dull coat? Honestly, I can't tell whether the car's existing finish is gloss? It is the 60' unlettered Atlas combine car, 50 003 784.

    upload_2021-9-23_18-1-45.png

    Purchased custom decals, believed made by Microscale so thinking should be good? Bought enough as definitely anticipate some scrap. :)

    These are the instructions Microscale emailed for application and guidance in applying decal and since there are rivets, bought the Micro Sol too.

    "The decals should be applied to a glossy surface for best adhesion. Use Micro Set to help with adhesion by painting some in the area that the decal will be applied. It is fairly easy to apply a long decal. Once the decal is wet and you can tell it will slide off the paper easily you place the end of the decal paper in as close to the position you want the decal. With a damp finger push down on the decal and then pull the decal paper straight out in a smooth release so the end of the decal drops right where you want it. Not too hard. Blot excess moisture with a soft slightly damp brush. Let dry. If there are rivets or panel lines you can brush on the Micro Sol one coat and let dry. This will soften the decal it the decal should sink around the uneven surfaces."

    excluding changing Central Railroad of New Jersey to Jersey Central Lines as the scaled decals are too long for the Atlas shortened Pullmans (60' think actual Pullman is 72'), to change into this..
    http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1591729

    Forgot to ask them what goes on afterwards to seal and protect decal so thank you so much for input?
     
  10. John Moore

    John Moore TrainBoard Supporter

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    For over 40 years now I apply decals over a gloss surface, either a gloss finish paint or a spray on gloss coat. Then the decals are applied and worked into position and any excess water wicked away with a dry paint brush. I then let the decal dry a bit and then with a fine point brush apply Micro Set around the edges of the decal and let it wick its way in under the decal. I let that dry well and sometime give a 2nd application if called for letting it dry well also. Then I apply a coat of Micro Sol over the entire decal. This softens and allows the decal to snuggle over rivets. Don't touch it after the application of Micro Sol since it softens the decal so much any movement will ruin the decal. Don't ask me how I know this. Let the decal thoroughly dry and examine it. If some areas need further snugging down just apply some more Micro Sol to that area and again let dry without touching the decal.

    The Micro Set attaches the decal to the object and Micro Sol makes the decal conform to the rivets. After the decals have completely dried I use a dull coat over spray to seal the decal and make it blend in.
     
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  11. freddy_fo

    freddy_fo TrainBoard Member

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    Like John said apply a thin layer of gloss to help with decal adhesion before putting on the decals. I realize the info I gave was a few steps ahead of what the instructions were saying so was thinking of a totally different part of the process. Likely the finish of your car is satin/matte so that can create a silvering effect on the clear portions of the decal film if that is the type of surface you apply them to. Flat is the most problematic.

    Being the decals call for the use of their own brand of setting solution (micro-set) you are pretty safe to follow those directions. I apply a lot of decals that are from different manufacturers and those are usually where I run into problems with the micro-set.
     
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  12. Hardcoaler

    Hardcoaler TrainBoard Member

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    Glad to see that your railroad is still abuilding. (y) I'm still working on building the train tables (two tables to form an L), but steady progress is being made.

    At least a household move won't result in you having to demolish your layout. Mine is designed to be moved, as at some point, we are likely to relocate.
     
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  13. Mark Ricci

    Mark Ricci TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks all for the input... Assuming all goes well with the MicroSol and MicroSet, the protection layer can be Gloss, Satin or Flat or should it always gloss. Read somewhere that there are those who like Testors Dullcote for flatter matt-ish sheen look? Referring to the atlas... The darker top section of the combine looks glossy and the greenish sides look either flat or satin to me?? Unsure of what to get?

    One other question... In the event the outcome after MicroSol is unsatisfactory, and before seal is applied, is there a method for decal removal without adversely impacting the car's surface?
     
  14. John Moore

    John Moore TrainBoard Supporter

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    Micro Set is also a decal remover. Directions are on the back of the bottle.
     
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  15. Mark Ricci

    Mark Ricci TrainBoard Member

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    Great to hear you are moving forward.. An L sounds nice. Curious, how do you align and mount the Kato track so that when 2 tables are placed together and track end over seam and connects with the Kato joiners??
     
  16. freddy_fo

    freddy_fo TrainBoard Member

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    Regarding the clear coat question for the protection layer dullcote would be fine but stay away from the lacquer version. That stuff is pretty hot and unless the original paint is lacquer too it may react with that paint. I know enamel works fine over decals but test if you can on the paint somewhere where it's not noticeable making sure to allow a full cure before you commit to shooting the rest. When I'm unsure of the basecoat I stick with acrylic but that is a hard option to find if rattle can spraying. Minwax makes a Polycrilic spray which is pretty safe. Satin or flat. Lots of light far away passes so you don't risk building up too much and getting drips in the finish. Also, too much clear coat and yellowing will occur which if the decals are white then it will show. So just enough to cover and no more.
     
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  17. EsK

    EsK TrainBoard Member

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    Hi Mark,
    Like you, I too am fascinated by the electronics side of this hobby. I recently implemented Arduino signals using the MEGA, it was fun!

    The GP7 you mention in your post, may I know if its a Bachmann, please? I would love to have something that never stalls! :love:
    Best, Krish
     
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  18. Hardcoaler

    Hardcoaler TrainBoard Member

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    Well, that's a good question and there will probably be some repairable track damage. I'd say the layout will be movable, but not portable in a modular/quick set up sense. Fortunately most of the track along the "fault line" is straight, so can be pulled out. I may use Kato 20-050 Expansion Tracks on these, which adjust from 3" to 4-1/4". There's one curve that'll be trouble though.
     
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  19. Mark Ricci

    Mark Ricci TrainBoard Member

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    Yes, the Arduino's r cool! And, the GP7 is a Bachmann. Excruciatingly painful to constantly watch at speedstep 1 but so very prototypical - stutter and stall free - Absolutely love it!
     
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  20. Mark Ricci

    Mark Ricci TrainBoard Member

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    Great idea with the 20-050! Hadn't researched much b4 you mentioned having 2 pieces to join.
     
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