Another No-ox thread

EngineerBill Jan 4, 2013

  1. EngineerBill

    EngineerBill TrainBoard Member

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    I know this has been discussed frequently, but I just had to post my experience. Although I model in N scale, I use an HO loop around the Christmas tree every year with old brass flex track on a board. I have detailed the cars with my kids birthdates, Santa, etc. But that's not what is amazing. Every year it is a chore to get the engine running. Track cleaning is a must. Last year I cleaned the track with alcohol and applied a layer of No-ox. After Christmas the track went up into the attic for the year. The attic is not air conditioned and often gets to 140 degrees in the south Texas heat and humidity. It is also filthy with blown in insulation.
    Imagine my surprise when I set it up this year. Not having any time, I didn't touch the track. Not even a wipe with a cleaning cloth to remove dust. Slapped my old 1980 vintage Athearn HO diesel on there and low and behold it ran like a brand new engine. No glitches, no stalls, no sparking. This stuff is really amazing.
    If you have any doubts about using No-ox I urge you to give it a try. Just remember, the key to No-ox is using just a thin, thin layer! Did I say thin? Yes. It is greasy and will cause slippage if over applied. But try it. Since my layout is forced to live in the garage, I plan to GLEAM and No-ox it this year. I will let you all know how it works.

    Bill
     
  2. SteamDonkey74

    SteamDonkey74 TrainBoard Supporter

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    We had doubts about No-Ox at my club, where we have a space with only minimal temperature control and with some moisture at times and with dust. We applied some and we don't spend NEARLY as much time cleaning track. We do run a car with a brush on it to take care of the dust every now and then, and we'll focus in on and re-clean areas as needed, but instead of spending hours with bright boys after every pause in running of more than a few weeks we just turn things on and go (after cleaning the wheels of anything new to the layout, of course).
     
  3. JNXT 7707

    JNXT 7707 TrainBoard Member

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    Probably been discussed before, but is No-Ox similar to Labelle 105? The Labelle has worked for me, have never tried No-Ox, but I've had similar results.
     
  4. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    Another timely thread. I am having 'issues' with my Unitrack of all things. When THE Layout was in the house I never had a problem. Now that it is out in THE RV...I am finding I am getting 'black stuff' on the rails almost evry time I go to run trains. I dont know if its a temperature thing or what. It gets down to near 0 at night and right at 30 during the day. I turn the heater on in there and get it about 70. When done for the day and turn the heater off it will drop back down to near 0 again in the evening. I dont have any other temperature swing problems. Its all I can trhink of that will cause the 'black stuff' to appear all the time like that. I dont find any condensation on the windows in THE RV so not sure moisture is a culprit. I have read numerous posts on No-Ox and am about ready to give it a try. Cant hurt...right ?

    * BTW...where are you guys buying your No-Ox and which brand or formula ? I see a few different ones whens when doing a google search. TIA
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 4, 2013
  5. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    More questions:

    I know you apply No-Ox 'lightly...I get that :)

    Questions are...

    When you do have to occasionaly clean the track...what do you use ?
    Do you just use a 'dry' rag so as not to take the no-ox off the rails?
    Will alcohol on a rag (my usual method of cleaning rail) take the no-ox off the rails ?
    After cleaning will I have to reapply the No-Ox ?

    Inquiring minds want to know...TIA
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 4, 2013
  6. TrainboySD40

    TrainboySD40 TrainBoard Member

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    mtntrainman: The black stuff is oxidation on the railhead, and that's what No-ox is designed to prevent. Do it! I polished my railheads beforehand using first an abrasive track cleaner and then metal polish, followed by a vacuum and then a clean with rubbing alcohol just to make sure the application was perfect.

    The way No-ox works is by chemically treating the railhead. You don't need to worry about taking it off with non-abrasive cleaners afterward. I usually just use a dry rag, although alcohol would also be fine.

    Finally, the type you want is available through Bar Mills, I believe it's labelled as 'type A'.
     
  7. EngineerBill

    EngineerBill TrainBoard Member

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    mtntrainman: You can also get No-Ox-ID "A-special" on that large auction site. It is used in CB radio to protect antenna connections against corrosion. You can use the link to EBAY on Trainboard to help out the site. It is available in many sizes. You only need a very small tube. Or you can get the Bar Mills packaging as TrainboySD40 mentioned. The owner of Bar Mills liked it so much he started packaging it for resale to modelers.
     
  8. jdetray

    jdetray TrainBoard Member

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    The recommended amount of NO-OX needed is indeed tiny -- 1/4 teaspoon per 500 feet of N-scale track. I suppose you would need a bit more for HO.

    The small container distributed by Bar Mills contains enough NO-OX for dozens of layouts.

    The link below tells you all you need to know about using the stuff.

    Track cleaning, Linn Westcott, and No-Ox

    - Jeff
     
  9. rrjim1

    rrjim1 TrainBoard Member

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    Product ID:NO-OX-ID"A SPECIAL"
    MSDS Date:06/21/1989

    PARAFFIN WAX,
    MINERAL SPIRITS,
    REFINED PETROLEUM OIL,
    FATTY ACID ESTER,
    MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX.
     
  10. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    Has anyone bought the Bar Mills no ox? Can you tell me how much is in it in ounces? TIA
     
  11. jhn_plsn

    jhn_plsn TrainBoard Supporter

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    http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/171-226

    My best guess is about 1.5oz as compared to a bottle of 1oz paint jars. That should do you for a lifetime plus handing it down to the next couple generations.

    Then again as many times as we model railroaders rebuild it may be only one lifetime.:question:
     
  12. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    Thnxs John :)

    * I just find it odd (humorous) that the place I ordered it from wants more for shipping then for the No-Ox itself...LOL
     
  13. YoHo

    YoHo TrainBoard Supporter

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    I've been waiting to hear of results with brass track. This is good news for me and my scrounging ways
    Sent from my RM-845_nam_vzw_100 using Board Express
     
  14. BarstowRick

    BarstowRick TrainBoard Supporter

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    George and all tuned in here,

    The No/Ox has been used by electricians for years. The science isn't new as it works and has worked for decades. All you have to do is apply it according to the directions given here and see what it does for you.

    Forgive me (or not) for being concerned about your layout. Grin! Seeing we both have one thing in common....extremely cold temperatures.

    If I allow my railroad to drop down to below freezing I start seeing all kinds of cold weather kinks occuring in my trackage and switches. I've had to replace unwanted kinkies. The track pulling apart in a most disconcerting way. To remedy the alleged problem, I keep a frost watch heater active during the winter months, set to come on if the temp drops below 40 dq's F. To further elaborate...I've had problems with my Kato track actually bunching up or buckling. With the track pushing in on the switches and the sectional pieces going out of gauge. I've also had problems with the plastic gears, in the trucks of my locomotives, splitting...(I did say splitting, right?) due to the cold temperatures. I just thought you might appreciate know-in.

    Next summer we (me, myself and I...some help they are). We are due to insulate the little rinny tin...(other expletives I won't use here)... train shed.

    Frost watch is in effect and snow is possible, but isn't due to head toward AZ...yet! I will be checking my Native Amercan Weather Rock, my Hanging Dream Catcher aka Circle and the White Man's Log Pile, to see which way the storm is moving and how long it's expected to be here. Stand by for a heads-up. What? What? What did he say?

    Take it easy.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 6, 2013
  15. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    Native Amercan Weather Rock and Hanging Dream Catcher **snickers*

    I dont seem to have any kinky problems (sounds weird...LOL) with the Unitrack and the 0 degree temps. I did notice a couple half drank bottles of water on the workbench where frozen solid this morning...BBBRRrrrrrrrrr. Just the oxidation everytime I go out to run trains &&$$^*^$^%^$*^$*#%*)()_* is driving me nuts !!! I'm guessing that with THE RV being enclosed and no air circulation at night that there has to be some condensation in there. Warming it up in the mornings is ok as far as going in and running trains (gives me time to have breakfast). I am really hoping the No-Ox alleviates the problem....grrrrrrrrr.

    Bummer about your kinks...twists...and seperation problems with the Unitrack. You can send the snow this way...just not those Unitrack problems...LMAO

    **BTW...I'll get that package mailed off to you Monday my friend :)
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 6, 2013
  16. glennac

    glennac TrainBoard Member

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    What kind of heater are you running inside there? I wonder if it's a reaction to fumes of some sort.
     
  17. jdetray

    jdetray TrainBoard Member

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    The quantity is not stated on the Bar Mills container of NO-OX. It weighs 1.74 ounces. John's guess of 1.5 ounces (volume) sounds good to me!

    Amazon sells a 2 ounce container for $12.70 with free shipping. That's about a two-lifetime supply! You could share it with fellow modelers.

    NO-OX is sold by vendors in a variety of non-model-railroad markets. It is used by CBers and Ham Radio operators, boat owners, electricians, and others. This makes me think you might possibly find it locally if you call around.

    Or just add it to an order for other railroading supplies -- several online model railroad shops carry it. Then the shipping cost won't be an issue.

    - Jeff
     
  18. glennac

    glennac TrainBoard Member

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  19. BarstowRick

    BarstowRick TrainBoard Supporter

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    Alright George,

    Doesn't look to be the storm will be heading your way. Pretty much dissipating out with the sun peeking throught the clouds, as I write. No real new snow to report, so all the hype from the media may send us some disapointed skiers. Oh well. They did blow snow overnight so we should be good.

    I won't send you the problems with my Unitrack but I will send you the gremlens that cause the havoc. They like to tag along with me...everywhere I go. Jinxed? Not so grinning. Or so it seems at times.

    Most of these problems didn't show-up overnight. They like to take their time and sneek up on me...grrrrrrrrr!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 6, 2013
  20. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    Normally I start the RV and use the vehicle heater to 'preheat' the place...then use the RV furnace (propane) to maintain the temp level. Right now the RV engine is having a tantrum and I need to change plugs and plugwires. So for now...I use a space heater to heat the place from about 10 degrees up to about 65. The thing is...I have gone out in the mornings when its still cold and can wipe the track and get the black stuff on the rag...BEFORE turning any heat on. And this is after cleaning the track and running trains the day before. So I am thinking whatever is causing the problem is happenning AFTER its warmed up in there and trains have been run and I shut everything down for the night. The temp dropping from 65 back down to single digits seems to be the key. Maybe there is moisture in the air and when it cools it attacks the rails...hmmmmmmmm. No Ox best be my savior....LOL
     

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