The DCC unit would not be a problem because the track voltage isn't what is connected to the motor. I don't know about the Tech4, it may have settings to limit the output for different scales. Jeff
Problem is you are comparing a diesel loco with a steamer, so to speak DCC provides a constant (actually it's kind of AC) voltage to the track - the decoder then modulates this to control the motor speed. Similar to: you get 110V all round your house, but maybe have an electronic dimmer to control a light. That's the Bachmann thing. The MRC is a DC controller. The 23V will be the maximum it can put out and would indeed goose a lot of locos - but they'd be doing about 500mph (scale) by then, so you probably wouldn't wind it up that far. (I'm still surprised at it though.) Most of the time DC stuff is running with about 5...10V on the rails. The 18.5V AC is a separate, fixed output just for accessories, like turnout motors - never connect it to the track. Hope that helps.
Re: DC vs DCC for Small N-Scale - aslo Bachman Hi Speedy, I modelled n N-scale for over 30 years before my eyes grew up. I have built several layouts for myself and several more paid for by customers. Here is some wisdom. First, keep it simple and robust. All DCC system suffer from complex-itis. The decoders lose their programming, the throttles need occasional resetting, the base units need parameters. The whole thing requires constant attention and practice. There is so much flexibility built in so that many people will find what they seek that you need to know a lot. It reminds me of Unix systems. A lot of people love them, but they take three men, two women and a guru to keep them running right. If your hobby will be practicing adjustment of parameters and working the system every day, then DCC may work for you. If, instead, you may go for a week or two, maybe a month or two of RR downtime, run the other way. You may not remember which magic word solves which problem with the system. Second, the MRC power packs are simple and robust. They will do the job. You might ven consider building your own throttle based on a TAT-IV design (like Wescott's original or the excellent Heathkit product). Those things are fun to build, not too complicated and work better than most everything else. Third, don't be afraid of Bachman. Just understand the limitations of their designs. I used to pull trains with pairs of F-units connected with a drawbar and wired together. That gave me 16 wheel pickup and 16 wheel drive. the lashup would pull as much as a ConCor Challenger and was a whole lot cheaper. A 40 car train up and down grades was easy for them. Some of the Bachman stuff looks pretty good. With some pickup help, it can be decent operationally, a well. Finally, the most serious problem with any N-scale engine is that it doesn't weigh enough. Every cubic millimeter should be filled with metal and not with phenolic circuit board and space between electronic components. Add weight and not decodrs to make them sing your song reliably. Bill
Is model railroading a passing fancy. If so go DC. If there is any chance you'll be continuing your adventure into the hobby, go DCC. For the sake of enjoyment in the long run you'll get your moneys worth and more with DCC. Brian
Given your original objectives, I would go with two simple (cheap) DC packs and option #1. Locos would of course be DC, but "DCC ready". If you got tired of the operational limitations of your analog setup, you could then easily convert to DCC by installing decoders into the Locos and getting either a Zephyr or PowerCab controller. For this "Phase 2", I favor the Zephyr in your application, as it includes two "jump ports" which basically take the output of analog throttles or power packs (which you have from Phase 1) and allows them work as DCC throttles. The Zephyr also can support further expansion as your time/interest/budget allow via the LocoNet add-ons (throttles, signalling, and on-and on (but you knew that - sorry <G>). If you get tired of the whole mess and want to take up gerbil raising, there's also a good secondary market for Digitrax stuff. Enjoy!
Sounds like an MRC 280 dual would meet your needs - has two throttles in the same DC pack. Buy it Now on ebay price around $80. If you connect the inner and outer loop you only need to use insulators in the crossover tracks. I'd consider wiring up a few blocks however, or at least an on/off switch on a siding so you could leave an engine on a siding while the outer train makes a loop on the inner track......
I think you should jump into the DCC waters and you will find it easy to learn to swim. There is a whole new dimension to the hobby with DCC, and this is where the main progress in N scale is right now. Look at Atlas releasing their C40-8W this spring with DCC and ditch lights that are separately controlled to flash prototypically. And your lights are always on, even when stopped, unless you turn them off. And more and more PNP sound decoders are on the way. And your ability to control locomotives is far greater. You could get quickly bored with a simple two-loop setup, but with DCC, you can MU, add sound, add ditch lights, fine-tune your performance and basically learn a lot of new cool stuff. The price difference is the cost of one or two engines, or a night out for dinner and a movie with your wife. I say don't hesitate, just do it. The Zephyr or the NCE powercab are high quality products, look for discounts. I just have a deep aversion to B-mann, which may not be justified, but everything they do with the exception of a few fine steam engines, has significant flaws and quality issues...
^^^But that's the cool part LOL. Go DC to begin with, if you go with an automatic signal system you will need the separate blocks anyway. You can always convert to DCC and twist all of your block wires together later. The best way to compare DCC is with computers. They have glitches, don't work right often, and have to be thrown out every few years for a new one. I still have my 1980's Tech II's(made in good ol USA) and love them, plus I've made a couple of handhelds myself. I like the features of DCC, but I'm waiting..and waiting..for the technology to become more reliable.
I'm a died in the wool 100% DCC guy but... I'd go with a couple of DC powerpacks or a single dual pack and option #1. You could even connect the two sections and install a DPDT switch so that your switchers could nmove out on the main. If the DCC bug happens to bite you later on, there are tons of things those DC power packs can be used for. I still have my MRC Dual Pak and it gets powered up every once in a while for a test loop and to check circuits. Martin Myers
