Loco1999: Is that the space you have available in the room for each layout? Stay cool and run steam....
Bob, I need to pick one or the other. If I lost my mind I would build .... two #1 or two #2 one at at 36' and one at 54'. Thanks, Loco1999
Both require a duckunder. If you're building two at different elevations, it would be basically a crawl-under. Neither of those is a practical lower-deck configuration, though both are OK as single or upper decks.
Loco1999: I would try to reconfigure your trackplans to avoid a duckunder. You won't be happy with one. I had one in HO scale 40 years ago and I immediately changed the whole configuration. Try a "C" configuration so you can access everything standing upright. Where is the entrance to the room. If I know that designing a configuration for the benchwork would be easier. You could do an "E" configuration like plan one if you move the benchwork on the left side to the wall and remove the four squares on the right for access into that area. You only need 24-30 inches for isle space. Depending on where your door to the room is you can extend the arms of the "E" to line 11. Widen the middle arm of the "E" to include part of G and HIJ. The left arm would include ABC and half of D. The Right arm would include part of L and MNO Stay cool and run steam..... [ November 14, 2005, 08:08 PM: Message edited by: Powersteamguy1790 ]
You initial layout idea was great,t aht C shape. You can work witht hat. the 36" is difficult unless you have a step stoll, then you can still reach back there. You cna naroow it out in areas to make it easier to access, and you can baloon out the islands depending on how you do them.
Thanks for the input. Ok, next plan... What do you think? I started building L girders on 1"x4"'s. I didn't see to glue them. Should I take them apart and glue them? And I have an 8' L girder to have one side wall and one side has a leg. I need to add a 6' extention to the 8', whats the best way to extend it? Thanks, Loco1999
Loco1999: That plan looks great. I would go with what you have planned out. I thought you would have had your benchwork completed and trains running by now.. Have fun.... Stay cool and run steam....
Thanks Bob. How about 36" and 60" for two levels?????? This will leave 16" in between???????? How have you done double deckers?? Thanks, Loco1999
I had a double deck in O and HO, with O on the top. You need more room ... about 30 inches. Try 60" and 30"... Unfortunately one has to be on the bottom which might be the HO in this case. Stay cool and run steam......
Thanks Bob, Thats not what I wanted to here.... Any others with double deck heights? It makes me want to put a single deck at 50" to 54".... Thanks, Loco1999 [ November 20, 2005, 11:32 AM: Message edited by: loco1999 ]
I've never heard anyone say you need that much. 24" maybe, 18" will usually do. That is usually considered ideal; it is a reason some people use not to double-deck. Usually, an upperdeck is slightly higher than this, and a lower deck significantly lower. There are other configurations for two decks. Have you heard of a "mushroom"?
I've never heard anyone say you need that much. 24" maybe, 18" will usually do. That is usually considered ideal; it is a reason some people use not to double-deck. Usually, an upperdeck is slightly higher than this, and a lower deck significantly lower. There are other configurations for two decks. Have you heard of a "mushroom"? </font>[/QUOTE]Triplex: The decks aren't use for one railroad. The two decks are needed for an N scale layout and an HO scale layout. What height would you suggest for two decks of two different scale layouts using the same space? They are two separate layouts that are using the same space on different levels. Just look at the previous discussion... Stay cool and run steam.....
Thanks. What's done is done. 16 inches between, just at the l girder. 20 inches between, not at the l girder. I am using a 1x4 with a 1x3 to make the L. I think a 1x2 would be difficult to attach cross members to. I will use 1x3 for cross members, most are 24-34 inches. I unscrewed 6 of the 8 l girders and added glue. The 2 I can't get at to add glue are wall mounted. I think they will be ok. Any opinions? I have 2x2 legs where the l girder is not wall mounted, Considering 2x4 legs.... Is 2x2 correct for legs? Thanks, Loco1999
Sounds reasonable. I knew all that. The mushroom (without a connection between the levels) would allow each layout to be at roughly the same height relative to its floor. There are other options, too. John Armstrong and John Schleicher (author of The Model Railroading Handbook in the 1970s) both suggested a different configuration involving a raised floor. However, it requires a ceiling more than 8 feet high. The idea is, have a wide aisle with a platform in the center raised 24". The lower deck of the layout is at a regular height, but its shelves shouldn't be too wide. The upper deck is above the sides of the aisle... just above the heads of the people operating the lower deck. It's wide enough that it can be reached from the platform (and usually still wide enought that it needs some access hatches, the positioning of which can be tricky.) It is rarely used, but it does solve the too-low-lower-deck problem. Anyway, if you're already going ahead, all this advanced layout design theory doesn't matter. If you're satisfied with the current setup, go ahead! I've always been a proponent of double-decking in all its forms.
