Venturing into N scale... need some advice!

New to this thread, but hope I can help?

Sounds like you're a Proto-type guy. Check out Atlas True-Track. Lots of LHS's have stock, and it's code 65 but with prototypical tie spacing! Unitrack makes me shudder every time I see those foreign tie spacings. Lots of people overlook True-Track but if you've got a simple track plan, they make everything you may need. Also, it's almost indistiguishable with their (admittedly delicate) code-55, and as easy to use as Unitrack.

Also, GET OVER TO YOUTUBE! There are LOTS of videos with N scale sound installs with VERY promising results. A Digitrax sound decoder and a bigger $8 speaker can make as much noise as most HO sound locos, so for $60 you've sounded-up your steamer. Some Trainboard advertisers have 'em, if you need a link message me for some direct links.

IF you're going to run 11" radius or better curves? Pick up a Con-Cor 4-8-4 Northern (later "Rail baron" releases). They've got DCC-ready boards in the tender and run like swiss watches (Kato competition, almost!). Also they'll pull 12-20 pullmans. The GS-4 and S-2 are both fantastic, and with a tender swap you could letter up whatever you want! On DC they have reverse lights on the tenders too!

I've been in N for a long time, and as an apartment dweller I can agree that being able to "take it with you" is the key point to N. I may buy HO when I retire (SOOOOOO MUCH Northern Pacific stuff in HO!!) but till then? I run N and love every piece I buy.

Last thoughts- The recent MR issue/spread on mountain railroading is a perfect example of how depth isn't needed for mountain scenery, only height; in N, you can have a 12" tall mountainside/backdrop that will DWARF the trains, and still be livable in the apartment, so I say you're making a good choice moving to N

 

Welcome to N scale and to Trainboard. I have been in this scale for a long time, and the one thing I learned is to never get into it for any other reason than FUN. Go at your own pace, design your trackplan with YOU in mind, follow your own instincts and when you out grow one layout, just take it up and build another, learning from the previous one. I am on my fourth, and probably final because mine is designed to my personal, recreational, medical and financial needs and I am tweaking it regularly.

Think about what you really enjoy about N scale and railroading in general, which will provide the scheme of your layout, if that is your choice.

Last but not least, try not to bite off more than you can chew. EArly in my stages I had a "mentor" who guided me through several layouts, and when I ended up with a monstrosity in my garage, I was in way too deep when he passed away. I lost interest in the layout and basically started all over again. A special tip is to when you are building,a home layout, try to have at least your first loop finished within the first week to maintain your interest. Worked for me.

Good luck and tune in often,

Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

 

Thanks guys. EMDF7A, I looked at Tru Track but I've heard it is not as reliable and in addition they don't have the radii curves to fit my plan. I agree it is much more realistic. But I think I'll take the brunt of the criticism and use Unitrack. I think for my first foray into N it will allow me to get trains up and running quickly and allow me to focus on what I enjoy more (AKA not soldering and trackwork!) I can, following the advice of many, dress it up pretty well. I'm so used to HO that the tie spacing will look just right!

 

Got the MBKlien package via UPS today. It was like Christmas... Set up the loop of Unitrack and ran the Super Chief for a few hours. Amazing what a small circle can do... had to pull out my BLI Mikado and some HO gear to compare.

I think I am just incredibly, awesomely amazed at the detail of the N scale stuff once I had it in my hands. For some reason at the hobby shop it did not seem quite as impressive. My partner agreed wholeheartedly too and couldn't imagine how I ever had HO scale!

You can see the Atlas Master unit that I'll be replacing with a Zephyr in the near future. First step is to order the track for the plan, and I'll grab the door/foam/legs this holiday weekend. Hopefully a build thread will be coming soon and I can document yet another HCD layout for TB!

Also two questions to prepare:

1) I chose Unitrack mostly because I do not know how to solder. Does this mean I'm pretty much stuck in buying the KATO feeder tracks (Which will alter my plan)?
2) Do you insulate the diverging track from a turnout and have a power feed from the bus wire going to the spur? Or with DCC do I not need to worry about that?

Thanks!

 

Kato makes terminal Unijoiners that have the feeder wire already attached, and they will fit any piece of track (other than some of those included with the #4 turnouts which have the joiners shaved for clearance when attached to the frog end of the turnout). I have used them in many places on my T-Trak modules. That said, I must admit that I have had a high percentage of the terminal Unijoiners that had the attached wire break off due to a cold solder joint from the factory. I have been able to take them apart, correctly solder the wire, and then reassemble them, but I find it extremely annoying to have to do this, since it is the same amount of trouble (but more expensive) as modifying a plain Unijoiner by attaching a wire to it. I would recommend that you learn how to solder, though, since it is almost a necessity in the hobby. The most important things in soldering is clean metal and using the proper flux & heat. a good temperature controlled iron or pencil makes a difference too. Though not temp controlled, the Weller Dual heat gun is excellent, and what I learned with:
<http://www.homedepot.com/Plumbing-T...splay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051>

As for your Atlas Master DCC power pack, I wouldn't be in a great rush to replace it, unless you have specific reasons or need it to do something it simply cannot do. It's a good system, especially for the lower current requirements of N scale. It's major limitations are that it might not do 4 digit addressing (but supposedly can if it's the latest software version) and some of the more advanced programming, plus you are limited to the console throttle unless you can find one of the Atlas tethered walk-around controllers to go with it. If you feel you must replace it, the Zephyr Xtra is the unit I would recommend, since it has the most bag for your buck, but keep in mind that it is also a console controller unless a walk-around throttle is added. If you only want to replace the Atlas unit in order to gain programming features, you might want to instead consider getting a SPROG II or SPROG 3 DCC interface along with the free JMRI DecoderPro software program, which will allow you to hook a program track up to your computer or laptop and use it for programming. It's really the easiest way to program decoders. For more info, check out <http://www.sprog.us.com/> .

Enjoy,
Bill in FtL

 

Hi Devon,

I neglected to address your question about insulating turnouts. With the Kato Unitrack, it usually isn't necessary to do this to prevent shorts, due to the way Kato turnouts handle the frog polarity. Some brands of turnouts will need insulators at the frogs to prevent shorts, especially when two turnouts are back to back, such as at a crossover, but Kato has taken care of the problem for us. The other reason to use insulators, and I suspect the reason you were thinking of, is to allow you to kill the power on a siding in order to park a locomotive. With DCC, this isn't absolutely necessary, but being able to turn the power off will certainly prevent accidental runaways. This will require additional wiring plus an on-off switch for the rail power on the siding, which can be a problem for temporary layouts set up on the dining room table, but less so for a more permanent type layout.

Also, I should mention that if you set up your tracks on the floor, particularly if you have carpet, dust and lint from the carpet will find it's way into the locomotive's mechanism and jam things up, potentially causing enough added friction to overload or burn out the motor. If you are careful to inspect your loco frequently and clear out the gear train of any lint, this is less likely to happen, but still it's better to set up your layout off the floor. Of course, when you first open the newly received trains and track, resisting the temptation to set it up on the floor is almost impossible!

Are there any good model train stores in Gainesville, or are you forced to mail order everything?

Bill in FtL

 

Not really true with the power routing of Unitrack. Once a train is in the siding....simply flip the switchs OFF the deverging route...and that section of track becomes dead. Granted...if one accidently flips the switch on the turnout...it will repower the siding and the train will come to life.

I dont plan on any toggle switches on THE Lucky Penny Yard...just gonna let the turnouts do what they where designed to do.

 

All, thanks.

Bill--I have been ordering most online from woo woo woo Klien... there is a train store in Ocala which I will probably check out this weekend. Waiting on a train show to stock up on affordable rolling stock. Until then, have procured an F3, E8 (both ATSF warbonnett) and a 4-8-2 Heavy Rio Grande. All I have for rolling stock is the SC set at the moment although I may not be able to resist the hobby shop. We'll see, I just spent a ton on the Unitrack.

Good news is the Unitrack came in a few minutes ago and I spent the week tracking down 2" foam at a construction supply place as it is not stocked at big box stores in Florida. Going to Lowe's to get the HCD, legs, and electrical wiring tonight to build the table this weekend and begin initial foam sculpting.

 

Hi Devon,

The train store you mention is Trains of Ocala, I've been there a few times. Last time I was there, they were embarking on a summer program using T-Trak N scale modules to teach model railroading <http://www.t-trak.org/> . The classes were aimed at everyone, but the hope was to involve more young modelers in the hobby, which sounded like a great idea.

Bill in FtL (sometimes Ocala)