Actually, much worse: 12 inches. However, that's because I used the parallel track options; I had another crack at it with individual curved parts, and it came out a bit better, although it does require buying bunches of little track pieces to get everything to fit.
Go with Atlas code 55, take your time laying it and I don't think you'll be disappointed. The difference in realism compared to Unitrack is amazing. Atlas has an extensive line of code 55 sectional track if you don't want to use flex and rail joiners alone are plenty adequate with sectional track. I only solder flex track joints on curves.
Here's a version using Atlas Code 55 sectional track. Right away, you'll notice that it's a much "cleaner" build, with fewer "fussy" areas filled with bits and pieces of short sections.
Yeah--that's great. I'm really leaning towards the sectional track ATM and that build does look much better. What radius curves does that wind up with? Does the program you use generate a track shopping list by chance? In your experience would going the flexitrack route be cheaper and even cleaner? But it has to be glued down and laid out on a correct curve... I think beyond my purview and I've always been bias towards sectional track. If so I think we might have a winnner. If anyone else has some recommendations for the plan, that would be awesome! I don't know if there's any "Santa Fe" like trackwork or junction I could add to help enhance the them. Is the general concept people use a HCD with a 2" foam sheet on the top? One of my problems last layout was I didn't extend the scenery below the track or have any water features and I really want to include that on this go around. As always, appreciate the help and suggestions!
Here's the shopping list. The last number in each line is the quantity needed. 2002. Straight 6", 36 2003. Straight 4 1/4", 1 2005. Straight 2", 3 2006. Straight 1 1/4", 1 2018. Curve radius 15", angle 22.5º, 16 2020. Curve radius 16 17/64", angle 22.5º, 16 2027. Curve radius 20", angle 11.25º, 2 2029. Curve radius 21 17/64", angle 11.25º, 2 2030. Curve radius 30 19/32", 7 2031. Curve radius 71", 1 2050. Left turnout#5, 5 63/64", 4 2051. Right turnout#5, 5 63/64", 9 2056. Wye turnout#2.5, 6 27/64", 1 Mainline curves are 15 and 16 17/64. And yes, these days the SOP for HCA construction is to laminate 2 inches of foam onto the door before tracklaying for below-grade features. Incidentally, here's a variation on the above where the interchange breaks off the corner more smoothly. Which, naturally, changes the shopping list completely. 2002. Straight 6", 30 2003. Straight 4 1/4", 3 2004. Straight 3", 3 2005. Straight 2", 2 2006. Straight 1 1/4", 1 2007. Straight 1", 2 2008. Straight 3/4", 2 2018. Curve radius 15", angle 22.5º, 16 2020. Curve radius 16 17/64", angle 22.5º, 16 2027. Curve radius 20", angle 11.25º, 1 2029. Curve radius 21 17/64", angle 11.25º, 1 2030. Curve radius 30 19/32", 7 2031. Curve radius 71", 1 2050. Left turnout#5, 5 63/64", 5 2051. Right turnout#5, 5 63/64", 8 2056. Wye turnout#2.5, 6 27/64", 1
Dave... Thanks! That looks much better and I feel like the sectional track is the way to go. So it seems rail joiners will be sufficient enough and I can avoid soldering and learn it without flex track pressure. Any other ideas or comments on the plan? What one or two books are most recommended for this adventure? Rick something's HO layout From Set to Scenery was a lifesaver on my last layout... David Popps book? Something else? Finally link to my old layout http://www.zealot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106065
Remember however, that the "Code 55" turnouts are the weak link in all this........I found them to be VERY nice looking, but they ARE flimsy and fragile, especially if laid incorrectly - (which I did ). I had MUCH better luck with "Unitrack", and I'm happy with it.....and, a plus - "UnitracK" joiners don't have to be soldered anywhere!, just drop feeders about every three feet or so, and on every leg of every turnout and you're good to go. I DON'T USE the Kato feeders, etc. Costly and un-needed. I just drop feeders the "old fashioned way, solder to rails, and drill small hole through track bed. If neatly done, disappears. I tried with "Code 55", because I loved the look of it, but it was just too fiddly for me to work with (and I've been laying track for close to 20 years - I'm sure age had a little to do with it.) I don't want to stir controversy here, I'm just stating my own experiences and preferences........to each their own.
I have to agree with ya on the Unitrack. My take (opinion) is that people who want to display or photograph their trains are more inclined to go with C55 or handlaid track. Most Unitrack users wanna run trains and watch em go down the rails. I just switched over to Unitrack....mostly for the ease of using it. I like to watch my trains go in circles...LOL. I dont have a problem with anyones choice. Everyone should use what fits their 'style' or interest. Its all good...its suppose to be fun !!!
I know that this is about a track plan, but the BEST advise for a newb to N is to check out Spookshow's site BEFORE buying a new/used loco http://www.visi.com/~spookshow/trainstuff.html
No worries bremner, any advice is helpful! In regards to the Unitrack plan... are people having incessant problems with the #4 switches? I know John Sing's site et al give instructions on filing down the main rail... is that all the modification required? Any they don't have to be wired specially? (I can just drop feeders to the main and turnout tracks?) Looking to start acquiring track next week as I'll be moving into the new place soon so construction can begin!
Once you make the pockets by filing, the #4s are just fine. Total disclosure, I have one, in my ladder, that continues to give me headaches, no matter what. The other 9 on my layout are flawless, so whatever it is, it is unique to that switch. Am looking to make some adjustments anyway, so will try swapping switches when I do, to see if that makes any difference.
Ah thank you sir. I feel like for my first foray into N-scale, Unitrack is the way to go and the small switches don't seem like too much trouble to file. I'll give up the realism in order to be running trains and work on scenery and detailing. I've spent hours researching those code 55 atlas switches and flex track and soldering and think I don't want to get in over my head the first go around. And on such a small layout... I think Unitrack is worth it. (Unlike your massive empire!)
I guess I'm missing something about the filing of the #4 points, because I can't see how there's any room to file a pocket in the stock rail to clear the point, because the plastic roadbed leaves no room for any kind file stroke, even with a small needle or diamond file. Just how do you do this filing operation? Bill in FtL
"Very carefully" I use a very fine point diamond file, and you just have to be patient. It doesn't take long per rail, but it did take a few tries to get the hang of it.
Hi Rick, Thanks for replying. I'm sorry, but I'm having trouble visualizing how to do this, are you filing a vertical notch into the inside edge of the main rails where the switch points touch the rail? Are you only catching the side of the rail head at the top of the rail, or are you notching the foot as well? It seems like the width of the foot of the main rail is what's preventing the point from moving tightly against the main rail. When I try to do this notching by holding the file vertically, I can barely get the file to touch the base of the rail, there is no room to move the file in the direction of it's length across the edge of the rail, because it is already pressing against the plastic base. Moving the file sideways doesn't seem to even make a scratch in the foot of the rail, much less a notch. Still a bit confused, Bill in FtL
You want to do mostly at the rail head. Follow John Sing's pictures, and just get the notch from the top of the rail tapered back along the point. Don't go all the way to the foot, it isn't necessary.
Hmm sounds easily doable on the number four switches. Sorrry for the delayed reply, had to undertake a cross county road trip! Will begin construction next weekend... My next question in regards to steamers is what is the best entry unit? I have a spectrum 2-8-0 in HO that is a dream alongside my BLI mikado. I know the same unit is in N, but would look funny pulling a long passenger. Since no good northerns are available, is th 2-10-2 by bachmann a good choice? Unlettereds are going for about 180 on EBay. Does anyone know of another place than Top Hobby Trains that would do a Soundtraxx install?
The 2-10-2 is a great loco, but would be a bad choice for passenger train usage, since the prototype railroads used the USRA 2-10-2 mainly for helper service on long freight drags. Because of it's relatively small drivers, and problems with balancing it's speed was considered too low for passenger service. A better choice for passenger use would be one of the Bachmann 4-8-2 Mountain types (either USRA Light or Heavy), or the the Bachmann N&W J type 4-8-4 (which unfortunately was only used on the N&W in revenue service, although in recent years it was seen on other roads in excursion service). I believe the eBay store "The Favorite Spot" still puts 4-8-2's up for auction on occasion, and may also have some available for straight purchase at <http//www.thefavoritespot.com>, for less than $100 . The Spectrum 2-8-0 is a good loco for local freight service, and you should be able to find one with factory DCC, which will save a lot of effort Or expense) over installing the decoder yourself. The current 4-6-0 could also be a good choice, they were originally used for passenger service, then on freight when larger and faster locos were developed, plus, they come with factory DCC as well. The upcoming 2-6-0 with DCC also looks like it could be a winner for branch line service, too. As far as sound goes, remember that even with the biggest speakers you can jam into an N scale loco, the sound is likely to be unimpressive and rather low in volume. Sound also makes a loco seem more sensitive to contact problems like those caused by dirty track, since it will cut out immediately and draw your attention to a hesitation that otherwise might not be noticed. Bill in FtL
You might want to check out my thread on "How I Tweak a Kato Unitrack #4 Switch before filing on any rails. http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...-Kato-Unitrack-4-switch&highlight=How+I+Tweak There are two issues with the #4 switch, fat points and rail head points that sometimes stick out too far on the other side of the point rails. The choice to bury the points in the rail does not always work due to insufficient travel. The slot below the points frequently has to be elongated in order to obtain sufficient travel. This occurs more frequently with late production stainless steel 'shiny' point rails than with earlier production galvanized steel 'dull' point rails. Since tweaking (35) Kato Unitrack #4 switches using my technique back in January 2012 I have had more derails on #6 switches than #4's to date. I use #4's throughout my yard in a 'pinwheel' / 'compound' yard ladder design and have switched trains for hours without one derail. I pull up to six foot of cars from the A/D track out onto the yard lead and classify them on six different yard tracks. Both techniques will work; I just find it easier to put a dull knife edge on the point rails that mimic the prototype rather than create a non-prototypical appearance. You be the judge for yourself. Choose wisely. Jerry
THE ONLY ADVICE I CAN OFFER ABOUT "N" IS............RUN, RUN AWAY AS FAST AS YOU CAN, BEFORE IT BECOMES A VERY EXPENSIVE ADDICTION :headspin: (LOL)........(He said, only 1/2 joking)
