I went and did something real stupid and seriously damaged the front driver on my Model Power (MRC) 2-6-0. The driver is beyond repair, and even the middle driver isn't quite right either (plastic hub seems at least a tiny bit delaminated from the metal wheel) I sent an email to MRC in the hopes they may still have spare parts, just crossing my fingers!!! So now I'm looking for spare parts, if you or anyone you know have a 2-6-0 that's not running, or maybe have spare parts, I'd be willing to buy it off you!! In the meantime, Besides the 2-6-0 and the 4-4-0 that I think uses nearly the same mechanism, does anyone else know which drivers might fit here, even if I have to change all three? For example, Model Power released the 4-6-2 and another loco in around the same time, do they also have the same driver? Might help me with a loco on ebay or elsewhere listed as "for parts only" that I could use to fix my dumb mistake.
It appears that the first driver is out of quarter with drivers 2 and 3. If that is the case then removing the first driver and resetting it so that the crankpin hole is at the same angle as those on drivers two and three may do it. BUT FIRST check the other side to see if it presents the same problem. If so it should be an easy fix but if not it could be more complex. I never had a MRC locomotive apart so I'll leave any further instructions to someone who knows more.
hehe, yeah, I wish out of quarter was my problem, I totally melted and shrank the spoked hub, it's not even attached to the metal wheel anymore!
Response from MRC... Ok, we'll, eventually I'll find a beat up 2-6-0 at a train show or eBay to repair my model. What a mess, lol. At least I've learned my lesson and won't try that again
Hmm.... if the metal driver tire is still usable, you can try CAD-and-print the plastic center. Might try a solid disk with the axle and siderod holes just to fit-check, then spend quality time re-creating the spokes and counterweight.
Yeah, might be a possibility, I do have the tools for that, and yes the metal tire wasn't damaged. Worried about tolerances and trying to get the pin hole at exactly the right place though. Resin is rather brittle and shrinks/expands over time, I really wonder at how to keep it tight enough on the axle and pin to stay put.
Gordon Odegard used the edges of his driver slots in the frame to locate his siderod holes, so i'm thinking it shouldn't be too fiddly to place the drive crank hole. Regarding fit, I think CA is your friend... Shapeways does a sintered nylon that might be a good material for a long-term solution. Or, one of the Siraya mechanical resins...
Shapeways is just too expensive, I already have a 3d printer. I do have some special resin that I haven't even tried yet, sitting in the cupboard. Anycubic Tough. Maybe that might work. Hmmm, you got me really thinking about this, might as well try it! To make a good replica, I have a brother laser printer with a scanner. I can try scanning a wheel face and importing the image in fusion 360 to draw against. As for tolerances, just print various diameters and find the one that works best. I think I'll give it a try, nothing to lose except time!
With a set of calipers you can get the critical dimensions: 1) overall radius of the insert, and 2) driver center to crankpin center. Everything else is just decoration...
Ah nuts! Foiled! The inside of the metal tire has two raised rings, not smooth like I had hoped. Not as simple as 3d printing a hub and pushing it in. I thought maybe I could make the hub in two parts and "sandwich" it in, but there won't be enough material. Maybe I could use the dremel to grind those down, but that's gonna be real tough without digging into the tire itself, and keeping it perfectly smooth (and a perfect circle). I guess at the factory they must have molded the hub right onto the tire.
Sounds like time to hunt for a new loco or a parts loco. I pick up parts loco's when it is convenient, just because it seems like a good idea for just such occasions.
MichaelClyde, not the same brand unfortunately. The bachmann drivers don't look quite the same as the Model Power drivers. Chances are that the axle size might be different, wheel size might be different, crankpin hole might be different, etc. Not sure it will work at all. I sent an email to Spookshow, since he's the only one I know of that may have all of the different Model Power steamers, I asked him if he thinks the drivers off the various different locos might be interchangeable (e.g., 2-6-0, 4-4-0, 4-6-2 or the 2-8-0), or even if the MRC versus older Model Power versions might be compatible. If so, it would certainly expand my list of options for a donor model! @DeaconKC, I was about to ask you if you wanted to part with your own dead motor 2-6-0
Guys, I think I can sort this for you. Somewhere I have two parted out MRC steamers- a 2-6-0 and a 4-6-2 . Safest bet is for me to part out the 2-6-0 , pretty sure it's only minus the cab and tender shell.
Let me know too. I believe I have am MRC Mogul that I tore apart to fix the electrical pick ups but never got around to putting it back together. So let me know if you still need either the drivers or the motor if Hoghead2 can't find his items.
Thank you very much Hansel, this community is awesome! Fortunately for DeaconKC and I Hoghead2 found his loco.
