I've been researching online how best to make curved corners and not found anything useful. My thought was to take a 3" strip of 3/4" ply and cut a series of kerfs into one side to aid in the bending. I'm thinking 3/4" is to wide and should go with 1/2"? Or do you just cut 1/2" kerfs? What about bending, is it prone to cracking or breaking?
What I'm trying to figure out how to do is this: I will be using the same method of construction, 3/4" ply and pocket screws. Since I'm using foam construction, I only need enough support for foam and the fascia board.
What about something such as masonite? One eighth inch thick, bends easily. I'm sure others will have additional suggestions.
Absolutely, but is what I'm trying to do is provide a base for the masonite. Otherwise how will the masonite be mounted? I would assume it should be fairly secure.
To do it like the photo, I'd buy the thinnest plywood at your local Home Dumpster, layer, glue, and bend them to the radius you want, along with supports at the beginning, end, and middle of the curvature. Maybe even use model plywood from your hobby shop? John
No. I have all the necessary tools to accomplish this at home. I think I've come to the conclusion that I will first try to cut a series of kerfs into the 3/4" and try bending that way. If that doesn't work then I'll try thinner layers of ply and laminate.
I've never needed anything other than at the ends of sheets for points of attachment. The masonite itself is rigid enough without additional support.
Perhaps your favorite local building center would have a scrap piece less than a sheet, which you could acquire cheaply for testing?
I should qualify myself in stating this, I was speaking in terms of lengths of four feet. If using longer I would at at least one point of attachment, and more if approaching eight feet long. But you don't need anything fancy. Just a rigid vertical board.
If you plan to have a layer of plywood down before the foam you could cut it to the curve desired and then glue a couple layer of plywood cut to the curve beneath. That should give strength and something to fasten the masonite fascia to.
I've used two layers of 1/8" Masonite for over 20 years as front fascia and it is very amenable to be bent and is very stiff after two layers have been glued together. I don't see any need to kerf the hell out of 3/4 plywood since fascia most likely is not part of the structural component of benchwork. Here's how I do it. (1) I draw up a plan for the curves of my front fascias using Cadrail along with a detailed plan of all of my benchwork. This shows me where to put my fascia braces, which I make up from 2X2's with 1/4 pine supports on the front which the fascia will be attached to with glue and screws. Normally, I make sure I have a brace at least every 18" or so. (2) Following my plans, I place the braces in their proper places making sure the front faces of the pine braces are at right angles to my L-girder benchwork. I glue and screw them in place using yellow carpenter's glue and square drive grabber screws, with pre-drilled pilot holes so nothing splits. (3) I use two layers of 1/8" tempered Masonite which are cut to a height that is slightly higher than the tallest scenery element that will be behind it. The height of my track is irrelevant as I will be cutting my fascia to conform to the contour of the scenery between may track and the front of the layout. (4) I glue and screw the first layer of Masonite ROUGH SIDE OUT to my fascia braces making sure that pilot holes drilled in it for my flat-head screws are countersunk so the heads do not protrude above the rough surface of the first layer. (4a) If I need to join more than one piece of Masonite together, I do that with a glued and screwed 1X2, butting the two pieces of Masonite together on the centerline of the pine 1X2. (5) After I have attached the first layer of Masonite to my layout (or module), I then start attaching the second layer, SMOOTH SIDE OUT, rough to rough. I do not use screws, but pieces of 1X2's or 2X2's then two C-clamps (top and bottom) every 6" or so. I use yellow carpenter's glue slathered generously to the first layer. I want it to be squashed out by my clamps so I know I have sufficient glue. (5a) If I need to butt two pieces together for the right length, I make sure that the joint is NOT directly on top of the joint of the first layer of Masonite. The joints should be staggered for strength. It takes about a day for the assembly to dry, at which point I cut and sand the ends to be flush with my benchwork. When you cut the scenic profile is up to you. Sometimes I cut it before the scenery is in and sometimes I wait and cut it after I've carved my Styrofoam scenery base, marked where it meets the fascia on the inside with a Sharpie...remove the scenery base, and cut the fascia to the Sharpie line with a jig saw. Here are some photos of my modules under construction. First layer of 1/8" Masonite glued and screwed to braces and supports. Second layer glued and clamped to first layer...glued rough side to rough side. Clamps removed, ends cut and sanded. Mo' module construction showing fascias. This works great for me. Maybe you'll like it too. Cheers! Bob Gilmore
In this post I explain how I did curved fascia, among other things. http://kootenaymodelrailway.wordpress.com/2011/12/23/fascia-wiring-and-where-the-hell-ive-been/ Basically, I used the tabletop and some scrap plywood to anchor it top and bottom.
You are correct. But, I'm not going to use any ply below the foam. I'm trying to keep this as light as possible. Further, if I want to run wires up through the foam, it will be easier without having to drill through ply first.
Bob, Thank You! Photos tell a thousand words. It's so helpful to see step-by-step photos with explanation. I like the fact that you doubled up the fascia layers. Once again, thanks for taking time to post.
