Okay, here's a few questions for all of you out there (in any scale) that have already built their layout(s) or are building them.... When you designed your layout, did it turn out exactly like you originally planned? Did you plan your layout of just design it as you went? Did you use software to plan/design? or just get a basic idea and go with it? If you're trying to model a specific railroad, how accurately do you model to the actual places/dimensions/etc? (If there's a cliff that's 200 ft tall in rea life, and you're modeling in HO, do you make it 2.3 ft high? Or do you play with the numbers a bit?) [ 05 February 2001: Message edited by: OSUguy98 ]
To answer some of your questions. First, re: the cliff - most modelers use what is called "selective compression" to model anything other than cars and locomotives. A 200 ft. cliff weould be just as impressive if 1 foot high instead of 2 ft. 4 in. At over 60 ft. to the mile in HO, you can't represent a very big portion of the landscape anyway. Second, some modelers copy everything as exactly as possible (see above), others model a specific railroad but not specific towns or track layouts, and some "free-lance" or build models and layouts "that might have been", with cars and locomotives that follow no specific prototype. If you are adept at computers, I would definitely recommend using CAD to design your layout, as you won't try to shoehorn something into the actual space that just won't fit. It's a helluva note to spend $50.00 and a couple of weekends building a structure to discover it's an inch too long to fit where you wanted to put it! Start with a plan (try using one already designed for your first attempt) but don't be afraid to change things as you go along and learn more about the hobby and what you want to recreate most. Good luck!
OSUguy, I assume you are a Buckeye, and not just some nut. Go Bucks!!! When I built my layout I had an idea in mind, but had no actual plan. I just took things as they came up. Its usual for me to plan much more than what will really fit into a given area, so this method works for me. I also model a specific road ( N&W late 40s) but I dont really model ant specific location. I model what "looks" right and most people can pick up on what I'm doing.....Mike
Mike, Actually... I am a fan of of Ohio State... but.. (yes, there is a but)... I go to *coughs* West Virginia Univ..... and get weird looks everyday for wearing my OSU hats... As of right now, I have yet to even start designing my layout, I know what I'd like to do, but don't have the $$ or the time to do it,let alone the place... I'm going to model the B&O... probably in the 1940-1960's and I'm accumulating the beginnings of a nice collection of engines, and rolling stock... The only problem I run into is that I'm a perfectionist, and a civil engineer to boot... so... I keep wanting to make it as close to what's in my back yard as I can... That's why I was wondering the amount of real world modeling that went on. Gregg, So far I'm thinking about modeling the Grafton, WV railyard as accurately as I can... hopefully get up enough skill to scratch build the B&O hotel and depot there... I'm slowly working with a Dept. of Highways CAD printout of the yard, trying to make it into my own workable drawing... I need to borrow a board and puck at school so I can trace the drawing in (and give watash the .dwg file instead of a scanned pic) Thanks for the help guys
I designed my layout with a pencil & ruler, I'm no engr of any type, but it came out like I intended. I model the Ann Arbor RR from the start in Toledo, Ohio to the end at Elberta/Frankfort, Mi - made great use of "modelers license"-a couple of structures are good replicas of the real thing, but basically I used the industries on the railroad to create an operating layout that will keep 4-6 guys busy for 4 hours. "Hail To The Victors- GO BLUE ! "
You can get a couple of free downloads of demo versions of some model RR CAD applications. www.abracadata.com and www.rrtrack.com come to mind right off the bat. Pick up an issue of MR and just visit the sites mentioned in the ads. As for prototype modeling, that's what my club does. Everything from the backyard, and I mean EVERYTHING. I'm at RPI in Troy, NY, and we have a very accurate model of Troy from the 1950s. You may want to visit our website (in my signature below) to see what we do. There's a lot of info there. We also have a book (well, many ) that details all rolling stock beginning with "B" - there happens to be a lot of B&O info in there as well, as the historical society was very helpful with info.
The current MAT started back in 1998. I did a drawing (pencil and paper} so could do the framing. The layout has evolved as Some track patterns look better than others so adjust as I go. I still follow the basic plan though but this wouldn't be model railroading if we didn't be inovative. I haven't tried those CAD programs so can't comment on them. I did draw my track plan using MS paint to put on my web site. It works quite well. [ 06 February 2001: Message edited by: Robin Matthysen ]
Randy, Welcome to trainboard and welcome to "The Pit". I originally designed my layout on paper then built the benchwork. I had a friend come over (GATS) who modified the design for better operational requirements, Now I am planning to extend the layout i drew it on paper then I drew it the full size of the extension. This enabled me to check that the benchwork would fit in the desired area. you can see my layout on my website. I look forward to your progress and hope to see you at "The Pit" more often
Hi, I designed my layout on the computer in a program called Freehand9. It's not a Cad proggy, more like the name. Have used this program for many years, it started life I think as Freehand5. Anyway, here is a photo of my track plan.
OK, I'll throw my 2 cents in too !! I have built several layouts in the past, and am currently building a pretty big N scale layout . I used to be what I call "Free Freelance"...no specific railroad on a made-up piece of real estate. I did however stick to a certain time period and copied the local railroads of the time: http://www.jstrainstation.homestead.com But I have slipped over to what I call "Prototype Freelance" version of this . I have an imaginary piece of real estate along a real railroad, model specific train and train types of the period etc. As to planning, I always draw out a plan, but then modify as I go because either a better idea hits, or what I drew on paper just won't work!! Good Luck and Happy Modeling!! John
My first advise is start designing now and worry about money latter. The reason being is that you will probably draw 3 to 5 serious plans before you actually begin anyways. This will probably take you about a year as you change your mind. As to method, I started with the basic benchwork shape and only did a very basic one line mainline in my brain, then checked it out with my son who is sharing the layout. I wanted a folded dogbone and he wanted a loop to loop. After that, I modified my "final" plan a couple of times. I think the method you use, will suit who you are - some fly by the seat of their pants and others plan everything to a thousandth of an inch (I exagerate). The hobby does attract compulsive and perfectionist types and they require more time to plan. Advise I would give you is buy Armonstrong's Track Planning for Realistic Operations. This book is a classic; plan on reading it five times. Go out and buy the current and past issues of Model Railroad Planning magazines. You can find past issues often at railroad shows. Share your plan with other more experienced people. Take them into your favourite railroad store and post it asking for criticism, if you have no friends in the hobby. Learn the rules, be prepared to break them, but know the consequences before you break them: grades on railroads come to mind on this point. Do not start building benchwork until you have learned and understand these terms: Staging......operating layouts...minimum radius....benchwork heght ....mushroom ...double decker ....homasote ...foam .... what thickness of plywood to use .... DCC ....open grid and L girder ...design elements (or Barrow's Dominoes) ...bus and feeder wires ......electical blocks or power districts... For a contemporary look, have everything flowing and curves, not straight and corners...looking at the benchwork design from the top. And in the end, don't be surprised if you have to "compromise." If you can't meet experienced model railroaders, join a modular club in HO or N. You only need to build a 2 by 4 or 6 foot layout, but everything you need to know for it, will apply to your own layout. You will learn much faster this way, meet new people, learn the terms above, and become part of the "social fabric." Those in the club will teach you how to build your modular unit. You will be surprised at how "social" model railroading is. Realize there are many "true believers" out there, who will insist on the "right and true way," but often you can use another method instead, foam instead of plywood, AMI roadbed instead of cork or Woodland Scenics new roadbed. You can build your layout using L girder, but realize many an excellent layout has used other methods. Buy a book on benchwork. Buy a book (Sperandeo's) book on electrical matters. Buy lots of used Model Railroading magazines if you can get them cheap. Good luck, nice to meet you.
Randy, as rsn48 said, don´t worry about the money - just do the drawings. I know that it will be several drawings before you can decide how the layout shall looks like. Believe me. I started in mid 70´s with many different (big) layout suggestions. In mid 80´s I got something that fit my intension (not so big). You can look for your self on my "Layout" page at my site. About how to do a layout sketch or drawing, I used to do like Robin - paper and pencil in the scale 1:10. Then I scanned it to a size that fit a web page, added necessary details and colors. See "Layout". As an example I will show you such a drawing for an extension I´m working on: -------- Helge SR&WF NARA member #5
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by OSUguy98: Okay, here's a few questions for all of you out there (in any scale) that have already built their layout(s) or are building them.... When you designed your layout, did it turn out exactly like you originally planned? Did you plan your layout of just design it as you went? Did you use software to plan/design? or just get a basic idea and go with it? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> All of my previous layouts were designed using a pencil compass, protractor and paper (and a BIG eraser). The most recent one (the one I'm working on now) was designed using Atlas' RightTrack Software, a freeware program available from the Atlas website. I'm using code 83 track on my HO scale layout, and the software gives all the info on it. It's nowhere near as fancy as, say, the stiff from abracadata or Cadrail, but for me it fits the bill. I can draw in the buildings after I print the plan.
I'm in the midst of building an HO scale 4 X 8 layout for my son. In fact we finished the rail and ran the first trains last Sunday. We're a long way from scenery, and we have 2 bridges to put into it. Let me share what we did...... Designed it all in AutoCad. Tons of horsepower in the program, and priced to match. I use it at work, so cost wasn't a problem. Had it all designed out to the nat's eyelash, printed it out, marked up the benchwork, and layed the foam to build up the hills. Then we couldn't see the lines (under the first layer of foam), and "drifted" some. Layed the cork, it looked good. Layed the flex track. Looked great! Soldered the joints. Didn't check the curves with a gauge. The first few times around with the trains had problems.... couldn't figure out why. Got out our curve template and found the problem! Had to pull up all the curves and half the straight areas to "re-curve" the track along the route. Now the rails don't follow the cork that well, but the curves look a LOT better, and all of the engines run fine, even pulling a load. What I learned? Design the snot out of it before you start. Be conservative in your design. If you want to keep a minimum radius curve of 18", design it with a 19" or 20" minimum radius curve. When you build it you'll undoubtably screw up and have an uneven curve some place, and you'll have to drop down to that 18" raidus. The track has be be smooth, even curves, and even and flat across the rails. Check, double check, run the trains, tear it up or adjust it, and run them some more as soon as you can in construction. Wear the wheels out if you have to before you move on to the scenery. Remember, if the trains won't run, what good is the scenery? Mark
OSUguy98, Gregg and the guys have all provided excellent advice. Maybe you forgot, that I suggested you pull your scanned original up, then use the window frame, and print out a smaller section of the whole thing. You can e-mail me at: janwil0@flash.net and I'll go through it with you. My new e-mail is tricky, what looks like '10', is 'L0' and the '0' is zero not capital 'O'. It is: JANWIL (zero) @ etc. Prodigy has screwed up Flash.net, so is temporary.
Thanks for all the help/advice/comments/info!! I'm sure this will help me over the next few months/years... Anyone have any horror stories similar (or worse) than Mark's? Thanks again to all!! I'm sure that this thread will help most beginners that visit "The Pit" Hopefully I'll be able to help all of you one day [ 07 February 2001: Message edited by: OSUguy98 ]
My Horror story; I had this great idea that a double slip switch would be just the ticket for a yard lead. (interchangable arrival departure tracks). After installing it I realised I didn't know how to wire it. Soooooo....ten or so tries later it works. But by then I had cut so many insulating gaps in it that a derail was a 75% certainty. Instructions ? We don't need no stinking Instructions!
Randy, keep in mind, that a little experimenting goes a loooong way toward what is practical, what will work, and what wont. Don't be afraid to get a piece of straight, and a couple of curved tracks. Maybe a switch, and some rail joiners. Use drafting tape and try various configurations on a small foam board you can stand on edge out of the way easily. Don't worry with wiring for now. Get a couple of cars, and just push them back and forth, and you will quickly see if they derail, or roll smoothly over joints, switch, and curve. Go from there. It also gives you a taste of seeing something running, and that keeps your interest up.
I have a bunch of EZ track that I run my trains around on when I can... but the experimenting and such with "normal" track pieces can't start until after this semester is over (or maybe just until Spring Break )... Right now I'm trying to convince my parents to get rid of this extra bed so that I can actually sit on the floor, hold out my arms and not hit something... Thanks again for all the help/advice
