I hope that is what is correct since I reshaped the pocket to accommodate it. It needs a shim and I will post later tonight when I see how the shim adhered to the coupler. I will need to touch up the front of the pocket and its environs from the file marks. I assume this has to be glued onto the top of the pilot pocket or can a screw get in there without disassembling the entire front portion of the engine by the screw under the front truck. Please advise.
Mark: You have to shim the Z scale coupler and you can't screw it in. You must use a very thin film of CA cement. Stay cool and run steam......
As soon as I get home, I will see if shim stuck onto the coupler and I will glue it in. I will even post a picture or two of it pushing a Z coupled 40' freight car around Bald Mountain on the LLL.
I do not know how many cars you want to shove or drag with the B-mann 2-8-0. I screwed the Z scale coupler to the locomotive, by fashioning a short extension from a small piece of styrene. I did glue the Z scale coupler into the pilot of an MDC 2-8-0. It will drag ten Atlas wood boxcars up a one-per-cent grade and shows no signs of giving. I used Walthers, because I can not use cyanoacrylate (it goes to my head).
Phil: I had no trouble with gluing the Z scale coupler to the Bachmann 2-8-0. I use the Z scale couplers on both ends of my 5 Atlas shays and each one can pull 13-15 log cars easily. Mark: Here is a photo of the 2-8-0 with a z scale #905 on the front pilot. It was glued in place. Here is a 2-8-0 using the original method of a coupler for the front pilot; a #1015 using a 2004 coupler box: I'll take the Z scale coupler any day...... Stay cool and run steam..... [ March 01, 2005, 02:14 PM: Message edited by: Powersteamguy1790 ]
On the Z- How did you get the coupler in so deep without hitting the frame for the front pony wheels? My coupler sticks out a bit more than yours but is as back as far as it will go without impeding the clearance.
I just downloaded and blew up your picture- Now I see what I did and what you did. I trimmed down the entire extended coupler pocket so that it was flush against the front part of the thingy that holds it. I then widened it and filed upwards towards the middle pipe or grab thing so there was clearance for the coupler to fit. You, I guess, did it the right way, which was to widen the pocket and shave upwards so the same will slip in. Or did I miss several steps?
I have just enough clearance between the pilot truck and the coupler box. In my mind, it does stick out more than it should as I can barely see the front top edge of the screw hole. Make sure you slide the coupler in from the front of the pilot as the coupler box tapers toward the back end. Stay cool and run steam....
There is no easy way to enlarge the opening. I just wanted to make sure the coupler was high enough. I don't think I even shimmed the Z scale coupler box. Stay cool and run steam......
Here are two shots of the installed Z coupler. I still have some finishing of the pocket to do and rusting of the coupler, but I think it will look OK for a first attempt. It broke my heart to start filing out the pocket and "ruining" a fine running, now silent and steady, engine, but I wanted some versatility for the locomotive.
Mark: The finished coupler installation on the 2-8-0 looks great. Use some diluted Mineral red to simulate rust on the coupler, box and pilot frame...The mineral red will cover some of the CA cement on top of the coupler box Stay cool and run steam.....
Mineral Red ia a Polly-Scale water based paint. You can also use it to paint track rails; rust on tie spikes; rust on bridges, etc. I suggest that you dilute it and test it out. Stay cool and run steam....
