Tracks into the Past: The Historic Bourland Trestle June 9th, 2008 · Story and Photos by Thomas Atkins The remains of the Bourland Trestle hidden deep within the Stanislaus Forest. With most of the forest service roads at the lower and mid elevations open for the season, visitors to Stanislaus National Forest now have access to some of its best kept secrets. Scattered throughout the forest’s diverse and beautiful terrain are a wide variety of these secrets, and many are heading to the hills to reach their favorite fishing spot, swimming hole, camping site or hiking trail. However, not all of the forest’s secrets are natural. In fact, with the gold rush and logging booms running rampant through Tuolumne and Calaveras Counties for over 100 years it’s almost impossible to find a place where this natural setting hasn’t been tainted by the unnatural, and it isn’t surprising to stumble across various relics from these eras. Today, it is almost as if the two have become one as the forest and foliage camouflage gold mine tailing piles, corroded ore carts and rusty mining equipment as well as railroad ties, steam donkeys and old logging camps. Although some of these remnants often pollute the natural beauty, there are occasions when the old cabins, rock walls, bridges and dams add a different kind of beauty to the forest. And although the creator’s hands may not have crafted them, many of these sites, such as the Bourland Trestle, are awe-inspiring nonetheless. Bourland Creek flowing past the foundations of the crumbling trestle. Besides their captivating qualities, these sites are also rich in history. Standing at the remains of the Bourland Trestle, one can’t help but step back in time and imagine what it must have been like years ago. For one to fully appreciate and understand the history of this towering trestle, one must first explore the history of the West Side Logging Company. By the turn of the 19th century, the excitement of the gold rush was beginning to fade and “yellow fever” was soon replaced by green fever as entrepreneurs turned their attention to the vast forests within Tuolumne and Calaveras Counties. With an untapped wealth of forest growing not far from the little town of Tuolumne, it became the perfect location for a lumber mill, and in 1899 the West Side Lumber Company was formed. It wasn’t long before tracks were being laid above the North Fork of the Tuolumne River (now a very popular walking trail) and stretching into the forest to reach this “green gold”. Like the miners before them there was no end to the distance they would travel to seek their fortunes…but instead of tunneling through the depths of the dark soil, they laid tracks into the depths of the dark forest, allowing West Side’s narrow gauge railroad to carry the fallen wooden giants back to the mill. The weathered wooden beams that were once strong enough to support heavy log laden trains are now slowly rotting away. With numerous rivers, creeks and ravines along the way, trestles and bridges were constructed to allow the steam engines to cross. Dozens of these crossings were constructed as each year the tracks penetrated deeper and deeper and higher and higher into the mountain forest. By 1922 the mainline had eventually reached Bourland Creek at an elevation of about 5,400 feet. This crossing resulted in the construction of a massive structure, and when completed it became West Side’s second longest trestle. Spanning 315 feet and towering 76 feet above the creek, it was an engineering marvel, and was truly a magnificent accomplishment. Yet the Bourland creek crossing was just one of four impressive trestles constructed throughout West Side’s illustrious career. The North Fork of the Tuolumne River, the Clavey River and Niagara Creek crossings also possessed remarkable trestles stretching over 300 feet in length. Because these were such important trestles, a full-time watchman was hired at each site to make sure no embers from the passing engines would accidentally set them on fire. A holding tank not far from the trestle site. For nearly 40 years the mighty beams of the Bourland Trestle withheld the weight of the log laden trains that returned to the mill each day. But eventually the long line of tracks and work came to an end, and West Side shut down in 1960. When all was said and done, West Side’s mainline had laid 72 miles of tracks (although the distance was only 18 miles as the crow flies), as well as over 250 miles of logging spurs that branched out into the forest (some within six miles of Hetch Hetchy Valley!). But these twisting rails were just a quarter of the tracks laid during the logging ‘heyday,’ for West Side wasn’t the only company logging the Stanislaus Forest. During the early years this forest was also home to three other logging operations: the Standard Lumber Company, the Yosemite Sugar Pine Lumber Company and the California Peach and Fig Growers Company. Combined, there was probably close to a thousand miles of tracks winding through the forest! However, during the following years, the tracks, ties, trestles and many of the logging camps were cleaned up and cleared out, and others were claimed by the elements or fire. But somehow the Bourland Trestle remained unharmed. By 1985 this wooden warrior was West Side’s sole surviving trestle and it is now one of two wooden trestles remaining in Northern California. In 1995, thanks to money funded by President George W. Bush’s America’s Great Outdoor Program, about 10 percent of the trestle was stabilized. However, in 1997 Bourland Creek’s flood-swollen waters weakened the support beams and in 1998 the middle third of the trestle collapsed. Due to its age and the costs of rebuilding the trestle, it doesn’t look as if it will be saved, and each year time and weather take their toll on the remaining sections. However, even in its current condition, it is still a sight to behold. The mossy crisscrossed beams still present a spectacular structure, and it is definitely worth the trip to get there. Looking upon the rotting, rugged relic is an experience one won’t forget, but it is only a matter of time before the king of trestles collapses, vanishing into the forest forever… From Sierra Mountain Times
