White glue shell

rsn48 Feb 18, 2002

  1. rsn48

    rsn48 TrainBoard Member

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    Anyone here use the white glue shell method with cloth or paper towels. I am contemplating it, but would prefer to hear some feedback on it.
     
  2. ten87

    ten87 TrainBoard Member

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    I have built my last three layouts using it. I love the process, though messy is an understatement. I first tried it after reading a single sentence on the technique in that great MR article on waterfalls a while back.

    I use Bounty paper towels, the ones that are perforated every six inches instead ofthe full sheets. I tear apart a whole roll into the individual sheets and stack them up. I use good old Elmers white glue (PVA) poured into a rectangular tupperware bin.

    I build up the shape of the area first with plastic shopping bags and masking tape. Later, after the glue is dried, I can remove all of the tape and bags, leaving a hollow shell.

    The glue is a nightmare to get out of arm hairs, so I recommend latex or housecleaning gloves. I dunk the towels into the glue and wring the glue out by pulling the towel through my index finger and thumb in a tight "okay" sign. If the towel is dry it will tear, so make sure it's soaked in the glue.

    I open the towel up and spread it out onto the plastic bag and tape shape. I cover the whole shape with two or three layers of the stuff. It takes several days to dry completely. You'll know its dry when you can see through it and it feels like dead skin (yech). Like I said before, you can then hollow out the form, leaving just the shell.

    Acrylic paints don't like to stick to the glue shell, so I take a cheap sisal brush and paint the shell with a layer of drywall mud, and let everything dry another day. I also use Sculptamold to make rock faces.

    The finished shell is sturdy yet flexible, and unbelievably light weight. For me the big advantage is the flexibility. I like portable layouts and typical hardshell can chip and break during movement. The glue shell really takes a licking...
     
  3. watash

    watash Passed away March 7, 2010 TrainBoard Supporter In Memoriam

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    I use old stockings and curtains between layers too.
     
  4. Catt

    Catt Permanently dispatched

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    You can do this trick using dryer sheets too. That way you can say that you are recylcing
     
  5. HelgeK

    HelgeK TrainBoard Member

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    I have until recently always used newspaper pieces soaked in wall paper glue in several layers layed over some substructure of cardboard boxes and other handy stuff.
    On my latest extension I have tried plaster bandage (from the farmacist). Substructure as before, and sometime empty cigarette boxes.
    The plaster bandage comes in rolls 4 in wide and about 7 feet long. I just dip it in water for a second and then model it over the substructure. After 10 minutes it has hardened, so it is a very fast way to build up mountains and other irregular surfaces.
    -------
    Helge
    SR&WF
    NARA member #5
     
  6. RevnJeff

    RevnJeff TrainBoard Member

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    I've had good luck with white glue and paper towel. I've used brown paper shopping bags as well. The brown paper bags don't tear as easily when soaked in glue.

    What I have done also is while everyting is still wet with the glue is sprinkle on WS ground foam, both earth or soil, and some grass. Another thing I have done is to add some water based brown paint to the glue, sort of like a dye. Works well enough for something that will be covered with scenery anyway.

    Jeff
    Augsburg & Concord R.R.
    (a fictional shortline in Central Illinois)
    http://www.pegnsean.net/~revnjeff
     
  7. rsn48

    rsn48 TrainBoard Member

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    Think I will give it a try. It seems to me you can cover a larger area in one time, and not end up with those ruts in plaster or hydrocal, like I get because it hardens to fast. I don't mind waiting a couple of days for everything to dry.
     

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