With the plunge into Z, I have built 4 frames, two 60" X24" and two 30"X24" end modules. Framed several leg sets and the set up is very sturdy but a tad heavy. Will post pictures and drawings when I get a chance. The next step is to put down some deck on the frame. My initial thoughts are to use 1/4" birch plywood with 1" foam on top to keep the mass down. This would allow for sub roadbed detailing, gullies, streams etc. Read several magazine articles and noticed several alternatives 1/2" plywood 1" or 2" foam board homosote etc For you folks that have modules what did you use? Any pro's and cons from you experiences. Thanks
We use 1/4" luan plywood decking, with 3/4" plywood sub-roadbed and 3/4" extruded foam (preferrably the blue Dow product than the pink Owens-Corning product because it cuts cleaner and they sell the Dow at Lowe's and I'm a Jimmie Johnson fan and not a Tony Stewart fan... But I digress...) as the scenery base. Birch is a great choice. In fact, we're going higher-grade plywood for construction to reduce the impact of environmental factors on the wood. Even though we are now painting everything on the frames to help seal them against moisture, the higher-quality wood is a good place to start. We're even going so far as to replace dimensional lumber frames with ripped-down plywood for strength and exacting frame sizes. I recommend the 3/4" plywood sub-roadbed. It provides a great surface to attach cork to, helps strengthen the module, and absorbs noise. Good luck! Adam
Adam, are we going to see pictures or your modules here. I specially would like to you running 72 cars in the show.
I used 1/4" cabinet grade birch plywood for mine, and my firend used open frame latice with 2" foam on his. He is complaining that mounting switches and stuff to the underside is a hassle. I just used 2" foam on top of my board for mountains. Not as nice of rolling hills as the all foam method gives, but I have solid base to work with and mount stuff to. -Robert
There are photos on the Yahoo Z_scale group under Photos/Texas & Beyond Thanks for the interest! Adam
Adam, are you putting the sub-roadbed down right on top of the 1/4" plywood? I haven't tried using sub-roadbed but am considering it for future modules. I experimented with a lightweight module a couple of years ago built with a 1x2 frame with 2" foam on top. The frame is holding up better than I would have expeted, but the foam is noisy as all get out when trains run over it. Randy
Yes, I attach the 3/4" sub-roadbed directly to the 1/4" luan module-top with wood glue and screws from below. Then use wood glue to attach cork to the 3/4" plywood, and wood glue track onto the cork! The only thing is making sure you have a small but long-enough drill bit to drill holes for power drops. Also, there's one critical element I failed to mention... I use 3/4" square dowel to form end caps on the interface ends of the modules. This protects the foam from damage during set-up and transport. Also cut the subroadbed short so the dowel runs from front to back... Some sanding may be required to get everything to match up. You could also accomplish this (instead of square dowel) by depressing the module top down into a frame, or by cutting the module short and using 1/8" or 3/16" masonite to contour along terrain, and to protect the foam. Adam
