Jan 29, 2006
Sleeper convert and NP RS look great!
Working on a layout idea:
Rokuhan z-scale track
Walt's 3d printed brass GE, Ingersol, Rand Boxcab.
I have done it in a general green livery rather than the CNJ colour scheme as it is intended to run on the forest line on Hakuho, work the high line on Republic Steel and work the docks on Cuyahoga. So a busy little engine. Paint is Hycote Meadow Green, as the windows are all small they were glazed with Krystal Klear.
It has caused quite a stir when it was running around in unpainted brass as the level of detail is astonishing
Here is a reminder of how it looked unpainted
Still putting the wasp stripes on the FM H10-44, Sigh!
That loco looks really sharp! I can definitely see why it gets attention. Nicely done!
It looks great!
I am truly in awe sometimes of the things you achieve
3D printed brass? Wow, 3 things:
1. It must have cost a fortune for the print.
2. It must be heavy and really a great puller with all the extra tractive effort.
3. It's bright and looks good painted, too!
It's not 3D printed brass, Shapeways makes a mold from a 3D master and cast in brass. Doesn't cost a fortune < $100
This is my last project: a Württemberg luggage cart. The chassis of the car next to it is also from my workbench.
+1 Wow! That is a super detailed luggage car!
More great work!
I got a couple caboose kits to build, an Animek CN Transfer Caboose which I have always wanted to build, but never had the time, and, one of my own kits, an NP Steel Cupola Caboose in BN Merger paint that I had previously started:
I've done a couple of Animek cabooses and would best describe them as 'challenging'. They were single thickness veneer rather than thin ply and had a habit of warping every time I did a join. maybe it was me but the transfer caboose also warped when I painted it.
I left the centre cupola caboose unpainted and show it when I have a layout out as an example of Z scale laser cut kits. Although the best example is still the rake of your centrebeams where people refuse to believe they are plywood!
These cars have racked up a lot of miles!
I'm super interested in how a pre-painted, laser kit in Z like that works out.
I have built several of Animek's more challenging kits (road grader and ladder truck) and have not experienced any warping. I did prime all of the parts with a light coat of Tamiya primer first and then their actual color later. Is there high humidity where they are stored? Was something heavy stored on them? I have also built just about every house/building he has made and still no issues. I did not do the cabeese, though. Maybe it was a bad run on that day...Jim
You did an excellent job on those Centerbeam cars Kev! I improved on them quite a bit by reworking them in the much smoother Laserboard.
The NP Caboose was not prepainted, rather I assembled parts of it then painted those parts before assembly because i wanted a crisper paint job. I will have to touchup the paint, then decal and clearcoat the caboose after assembly.
As far as painting wood without warping, what you have to do is seal the model with "Thompsons Water Seal" in the spray can, and let dry a couple days, then you can paint with any paint you want and not get warping.
In that time frame, I was using cardboard veneer as my main construction material, it was quite easy to work with without much issues.
I've never experienced any warping situation, especially as describe here. And I have made quite a few models using this materials. The pictures below are showing models directly painted, no primer involved.
Otherwise I would not have created kits out of this. Ok, it was not the best material compared to plastic, but I was using what was available locally, we don't have any tin plywood at reasonable prices here in Canada, even the Polybak is only made in the U.S., but it is more affordable than the 1/64 plywood. In any case, I ain't producing them anymore.
Tests I've made when creating the kits. some where airbrushed, others where painted using a regular handbrush.
When dry, the
veneer was coming back to a flat state. in 30 minutes or so.
Ray, Thank you for the tip about sealing wood kits. I have a sand house that was warped when I painted it. Now I know what to do.
I'll have another go and see if I can avoid the issues. I did use Humbrol Acrylic which is a different formula to Tamiya completely and may be a root cause of the issues