My latest purchases where Athearn 50' Boxcar "City of Prineville", rslaserkits conversion decks for MTL flatcars, some Kalmbach books, a Kato GP50 in Chicago Northwestern, several Model Power building kits and a 1979 copy of a Walthers N scale catalog..all on ebay
So how does it look? I just wish I picked up the two car set that would have went perfect with it, the green box car and flat car with wheel sets.........I think it was a N scale collector set of some kind. Did you see that set?
I just won 12 Intermountain 50' box car bodies and ends on eBay. Tomorrow, I have to call Intermountain and order the brake rigging, ladders, grab irons, roofs, etc. Hope they have the parts in stock. Hmm... probably cost more than buying complete kits...
Picked up three new locomotives, 1 Atlas SP GP9 with Torpedo tubes, 1 Atlas SP GP9 SP Black Widow and 1 undec Kato E8 B unit for $80.00. I have a bunch of undec GP9's that are destined for B&M, so I'll swap the SP shells for my detailed B&M shells and the B unit will be for my CB&Q project.
My latest purchase is a Number 4 Kato Right Point, replacing one that died . . . If only I had room for the Number 6!!! Regards, Pete Davies
Score! I set one of the GP9's that I got on Sunday on my layout and it did not move. Turns out it's DCC.
Latest purchase for me, all PRR: Alas FM Trainmaster with dcc $60, Bachmann GE44 $54 and yet another Trix K4 $40. Also some assorted Athearn Blue Box freight for my limited H0 runing sessions.
Well, I vowed that I would not buy anything more as I have too much already. So far that is working out for locomotives as I will not buy anymore unless they are models of PRR steam. The vow for rolling stock was working [that's a past tense 'was'] until I happened on a sale. Picked up 24 Walthers Difco dump cars for my Allegheny Sand & Gravel RR. Got to erase the current lettering and apply ASG decals but $20 retail price for $8 isn't bad.
Like Inkaneer, I wasn't going to buy anything. Though I never actually took a vow like he did. I bought a Northwest Shortline Chopper, by golly by gum yes I did. I was trying to build a trestle in place with a hobby knife and wrecked my hands for weeks. Now I wonder why I was so cheap for so long. Hooray for the Chopper...
The Chopper is a great tool and so useful for RR stuff. I also have an NWSL true sander and have marveled at how precise my sanding can be, now. I went to the hobby shop the other day and bought (gasp) some more blades for my larger X-Acto (both the "regular" and "chisel" type), some bi-color LEDs and resistors, and the latest issue of RMC.
I agree the Chopper is absolutely a fine tool for all thin stock and for softer materials in thicker stock. But it will not cut, for example, 1/8-inch square plastic rod on a true vertical, and gets even more dicey with round hollow tubes. The blade tends to wander no matter show slow the stroke, so I end up with about 87 degree cuts instead of 90 degrees. For a while I used a spacer which slanted the blade a tad, but this was an inconsistent solution. In fact, my latest purchase was one of those small aluminum miter boxes, because I had nearly sawn through my old one. With some care in sawing, the boxes do cut squarely. It takes a bit more time to cut each piece, but less time or no time to square up the cut. I do happen to be cutting a lot of heavier stock for details on ships such as tool boxes, ready lockers, vents, booby hatches, and other components. These translate into roof and wall details for buildings--but I long ago finished populating my layout. And I'm cutting a lot of brass, which is outside the Chopper's capabilities Again, it's a great tool, and a good value if you will be doing a lot of repetitive cutting! Just don't expect miracles with thicker stock. Now if someone came out with a chop saw about the same size, I'd be first in line to buy it.
I hear you, Pete. It's a right tool for the right job situation. Sometimes, with the thicker brass tube stock I won't even use a saw but instead use this miniature pipe cutter thing I have in my toolbox to avoid any squishing of the material. The Chopper is best with lots of repetitive small dimension stuff.
Still learning to post pics and have no sucess .. here goes ... recent purchase this week : N Scale 1941 Cheverolet Stake Bed Truck Kit $15.26 N Scale 1941 Chevy Truck Kit Price/Ea.: $6.76.N Scale 1941 Chevrolet Panel Van Kit (unpainted metal) Price/Ea.: $5.06 Internal Mix Single Action Airbrush w/Video and Ozone Safe Propellant Price/Ea.: $66.93 N Sub Terrain Track-Bed Roll 24 1 $8.49 [HR][/HR]N Telephone Poles 12pc 1 $3.25 [HR][/HR]N White WC22 Flatbed Truck, Red 2pc 1 $12.29 N Scale 1941 Peterbilt Logging Truck & Trailer Kit Price: $18.66 [TABLE="width: 580"] [TR] [TD="width: 565, colspan: 2"]N SCALE PLASTIC TRAIN DEPOT WITH FIGURES LIGHTED [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD="width: 65"][TABLE] [TR] [TD="width: 64"][/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [TD="width: 490"][TABLE] [TR] [TD="width: 142, align: left"][/TD] [TD="width: 5"][/TD] [TD="width: 77, align: left"]$14.99 [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] MP - Steam USRA 4-6-2 Pacific w/Standard Tender - Standard DC US Army - N 490-87418 1 1 0 $108.86 And some more track code 80 Broadway limited DCC E6 for 157.00 plus ship and the DC Master to control the E6 until I figure out which DCC system to use.
Try fitting the small dremel with the cut off wheel to a door hinge mounted to a wood platform , that would give you the chop part and the wood will not hurt the cut off wheel , on the business end mount a section of U channel ( aluminum ) cut square on the business end to the wood like a small mitre box . mount the dremel hinge so the cut off blade just misses the end of the channel like a chop saw and adjust from there. I made one like this in my earlier days ( pre 1980 and 5 kids ) and now will be fashioning one again since I have started modeling N again and find my small machine shop is not quite small enuf to handle .032" pipe , and lumber etc. . I have an old small mitre from a craft razor/saw kit that will work just fine for me. One could pick up cheap, say at a flea market or swap meet or even on ebay .... or locale metal dealer .
Not sure if this would be too big yet? One could easily make a fence for this with a little effort that could replace the clamping section. http://www.harborfreight.com/bench-top-cut-off-saw-42307.html Allen...
Yep. It was either that or find a tiny little guy with a tiny little table saw. And nobody has come out with one yet. It would be nice to have a tiny little person with a hammer and nails, too, instead of using those one-foot-square blobs of glue.
I used to be able to get in touch with one of those when I was younger, who helped build me this little union hall for the Nit Pickers' local... but I have gotten too old to believe in fairy tales.
Wow, jeez, that's some kind of construction there. These days I have to take off my glasses and get real close to build little things like the trestle I'm working on. It's hard when you work that way: with one eye or another crossing, soon you don't even know where you're looking--especially where any depth is involved. I can't even imagine putting all that detail work into a building now. My opthamologist told me today that I now have "spasm of accommodation." One more occupational disease for model railroaders to worry about... (Just kidding. More likely it was caused by the hyperbaric chamber).
No, that wouldn't be too big at all. Thanks for the tip! I have their tiny table saw, which I think is the tool I approach with the greatest fear of cutting off a finger—just a diabolical device. The cut-off saw looks a lot safer. I'll see if I can order it on-line, as the nearest store is 40 miles away, and is often out of much stock.
Paperkite, That was a nice suggestion, and something I probably would have built 10 years ago, when I tired of burning my fingers holding brass tubing while cutting off a slice, and then chasing down the slice from wherever it landed in my workshop. I actually have the same problem with the Chopper, an unavoidable consequence of physics. When cutting small slices, I've learned to cup one hand over the slicer to capture the part before it flies off to the netherlands at warp speed. At the other extreme, the cut-off slice sticks to the blade, which requires some delicacy in removing without an unwanted slice of a fingertip. The grip gets a little comical: hold the tube against the fence and the stop with the little finger of my left hand, cup my right hand over the exit path, work the lever with my left thumb and, if the part sticks to the blade, pick up the tweezers with my right hand and remove the part to a heavy shot glass, where there is no plastic-to-plastic attraction. Anyone who has seen my workbench must think I am a shot glass collector. Because they are bottom heavy, I use them for parts, small files, drills, bits and collets, micro-applicators soaking in acetone, etc.
