Another vote for the Unimates. I use them to couple ABBA engine consists together. Never had any false uncouplings with them. Engines couple very close and much closer than with MT's or other couplers. Tried them on passenger cars but didn't like them in that application. I went with the Kato 11-702 couplers which I think have been discontinued. Cars were coupled by pushing them together rather than lifting one coupler over another. Again very close coupling was achieved but sharp curves were to be avoided or else the cars would interfere with one another and either derail or uncouple.
Thanks Doug for your recollections. Some of my old cars have price stickers from Chicago area department stores like Wieboldt's and Marshall Fields, both gone today. Even the local sporting goods store had a nice selection of N and our local drug store sold Treble-O-Trains. It was a good time to be a kid.
While body mounts can look better and can be much cheaper, compare a pack of MT 1015/16s with the cost of a ten pack of trucks with couplers. You save by using the same truck, just cutting off the coupler mount, and normally shims come with a package of 1015/16s to adjust the mount to the right height. However operating radius or future operating radius comes into play since body mounts are less forgiving on the smaller radiuses, and the longer the car is the more unforgiving they become on 9.75 or 11 inch. Model tight industrial or port track and the truck mount has the advantage. Because I am using short radius turnouts and will have a port under construction in a limited space, plus modeling with a distinct narrow gauge flavor with tight radiuses all my cars are truck mount couplers except for some cars under 40 foot in length where the body mounts work fine.
a trick I learned is to bend the pin so it does not get caught or push it up on the Atlas cars you can't do this.
