Hello, Just few days ago trains been running on my layout so good, and suddenly out of blue sky they start derailing again. Please view the attached photo where I put a red rectangle. This is Atlas N-18 Gulf summit layout. I have three Atlas right turn here and it is really crowded area. I took them off last night and reposition them again and still there are some derailments. My question what do you recommend me to do: 1. rebuilt it again? 2. Change Atlas turns to a better one and what brand do you recommend and would have the same foot prints as Atlas? 3. Go to Home depot and get the biggest sledge hammer and break the whole thing out. I am really at the end of limit with this crazy hobby. Thanks. Mo
What type of track are you using, Atlas code 80 or 55? If it is Code 55 I had problems with some of there turnouts being out of gauge causing derailments. I have also had problems when the turnout is to close to a curve which you problem area is. you might try moving them 6 inchs farther to the left and putting some straight track between them and the curve. Kevin
I have three ideas: 1. Check every bit of those switches with an NMRA gauge. Even if they were in gauge when you put them in, stresses put on them during the installation may have pulled them out of gauge. 2. Pull them over to the left of the plan a little (left as we view it here) to get them away from coming right out of that curve. Those are almost always troublesome. 3. Swap them out for higher number turnouts if they are in gauge and you don't want to move them to the left.
Do they derail on the curve portions? Those things are reverse curve situations which some times causes that, especially if only longer cars derail. Run trains and watch closely. I sometimes have longer engines catch the switch machines on Atlas turnouts (in my hidden staging, of course) just as they come around a curve. And, many turnouts are either simply out of guage, or need their points filed a bit to keep wheels from riding up. Others, esp. Atlas Code 80 simply don't close all the way. If you watch closely enough, you should be able to figure out where and what leaves the rails which should suggest what to do about it. Good luck!
When you say the trains were running OK just a few days ago and they they started derailing, how long had they been running without any problems? If they had been running for a long time (days, weeks, months, etc.) and then all of a sudden started derailing, I would suspect some event happened that damaged the track or the equipment. If you built the layout, ran it for an hour or so and started getting derailments, I would say you just happened to be lucky for the first hour or so and the track or equipment was flawed all along. Either way, your problem resolution should involve the steps shown above, starting with the NMRA gauge. Another important question to consider, is it there something common to the derailments? Sounds like it is the same section(s) of track each time, but is it also the same equipment each time? You may have a bad set of wheels on a car or something like that. Just be patient--you'll get it figured out and once you do you should be good to go. Jamie
I have another question as well. Are you using sectional track? I'm betting you did. We really need for you to come back and answer the questions that have been put to you here. A lot...I know! Once we know what you have done, we can better assist you. AND, pictures of your layout would help us to diagnose the problem. It could be hemorragic trackitis (not staying in gauge), arthuritis (a bad rail joint), pogoflagmitis (unlevel track, due to a bump or dip), stretchamagicide (expansion and contraction, due to hot and cold temperatures), and lastly flatulatmiatopia (thinking I built the perfect railroad). Grin! Having fun yet?
I'm betting the turnouts got twisted or warped due to the tight configuration there. What type turnouts are you using?
Pete, Where you been? Good to see you throwing in hear. Vacation...right? It's possible I've been busy with some Barstow Yard, questions and just missed seeing your postings. As to the Moshken's original question. I suspect the same as you...warped switches. It can happen. We do need to hear back from him so we can focus in on the problem and it could be a combination of things as well. Have fun!
You might have inadvertantly warped a turnout or two (or three) while installing them. You want to make sure when you lay a turnout that it goes in nice and easy. Also, if you tack it down with track nails, make sure the nail head rests only lightly on the tie. I definitely agree with the others about checking the turnouts' gauging. There is another potential problem, though. Did you lay your track with small gaps every now and then? What surface did you lay the track on? And has your weather suddenly changed? More or less humidity, for example? Did it suddenly get hotter? Is it a table layout, and if so, how thick is the base and how is it supported? Just wondering whether the track itself might have expanded a little, warping the turnouts, or the roadbed (plywood?) might have warped a little. It wouldn't take much, especially if you didn't lay the track with gaps. 1. I see that two turnouts face each other. I often make sure there is two inches of straight track between facing turnouts. Otherwise, rolling stock is forced into an S-curve, often leading to derailments. Roll a caboose over it, then try a 60' car. If the first works but not the second, that may be the problem. 2. On the inner track, I see that a tight-radius curve leads directly into a turnout. It's a nice, clean, smooth curve that seems to work well with your turnout, but it could still cause trouble: the locomotive (or car) pushes its wheels into the outer rail with a lot of force on a curve like this, and turnout points often fail to hold the wheels. When I lay turnouts I always make sure to have a few inches of straight track leading up to the points-end of the turnout. This could be a problem with the outer curve, too: I can't see whether you have a straight section there or not. It would help if we knew what direction your rolling stock is moving when it derails, the curve radiuses, and how big your rolling stock is. Does an GP7 derail the same as an SD40, for example? Don't give up! You're almost there! :tb-biggrin:
If your using the Atlas code 55 turnouts, you shouldn't have to move any turnouts just because they are coming out of the curve. Atlas's code 55 turnouts have a recess in the stock rails where the points fit in, and that should eliminate any wheel flange catching on the points as they come out of the curve. More than likely your rail joints are out of alignment, or (while installing the track) you inadvertantly put some of the track out of gauge. Check it with the nmra gauge and correct. Look for horizontal or vertical bumps at rail joints. Spreading of the rails in the curves, etc Run the engine and train very slow and look to see where the train actually derails. Then check that portion of the track thoroughly. R
Just a note: Peco turnouts have this feature as well. What I am referring to is not catching against the ends of points, but that the points themselves--the rails that move--sometimes won't hold a train coming directly off a curve. It depends on how tight the radius and how long the rolling stock. I'm not sure why this is so, but I'm sure a physicist could tell us. Since I stopped laying turnouts directly off of curves, I've stopped experiencing derailments.
Mo: For what it is worth coming from a Unitrack sectional track user that knows nothing about anything else. IMHO the area outlined in red is flawed to begin with. You have a double track mainline with a pair of “S” curves (no straight section between reversing curves) as part of an interlock (multiple plants (turnouts)).:thumbs_down: This scenario would invite derailments using Unitrack; which is very forgiving. I’m surprised that you ever got any trains to run without derailing! My suggestion is to pull the spur out on the front of the layout and drop the left side mainline curves down to meet with the right side mainline curves head on. Add a single or double crossover as desired to allow switching mainlines and place said crossover(s) at least two car lengths away from the curves. An alternative might be to raise the right side mainline curves up to meet the left side mainline curves head on and retain the spur. Either of these suggestions will be a pain in the neck if you have already glued the track down and add scenery, however in the long run it will be worth your sanity. Best of luck on whatever decision you make. Jerry
One other thought is to check the trip pins on your equipment if your using MT or simillar couplers. Those can cause "mysterious" derailments as well. Hence the reason I don't have any hanging down. They get clipped short. Art
The photo reminds me of Atlas C80 standard remote switches. I had a similar configuration on my old layout and I had a lot of derailments. Actualy I'm sure of it.
