What type of printer and paper does one need to create graphics for locos,rolling stock,trailers etc...?And what program is everyone using? Thanks
I assume you are thinking of creating custom rolling stock with decals. I've done a number of these, and after a bit of learning and a few mistakes, I find it's pretty easy. I have a generic HP inkjet printer, and I buy decal paper specifically for inkjets. If you've got a laser printer, then you'll need laser decal paper. They're not interchangeable, but as long as you match the paper to the printer you'll be fine. I usually use Microsoft Word for my lettering. That gives me the use of all the gazillions of fonts, and it's easy to size the lettering to match the model. For specialized graphics, I use the simple Paint program that comes with Windows. I usually save the graphics as a file (JPG or BMP) and then import it into Word, where I can size it more easily before printing. Decal paper is expensive, and I'm a Scotsman. So, I set the margins in Word with a minimum spacing at the top and sides. Then, I print my row of decals at the top. I let it dry thoroughly, and then cut the top row off cleanly with a paper cutter. This gives me a clean edge, and I can put the paper in for another pass later. Decals need to be coated before they can be applied. I use Microscale's Liquid Decal Film. Others use various spray products to coat their decals. One thing I've found that's important is to keep the decal completely flat and level when applying the coating, so the colors don't run. Apply the decal to a clean, smooth surface. You might want to give the model a coat of gloss or satin spray beforehand to get a better surface. After applying the decal, use another surface spray coat to seal and protect the decal. I also apply decals to the sides of buildings. Here, I want a beat-up, weathered look, so applying the decal over a rough surface is the ideal solution. Finally, you can't print white, and light colors don't work well either. If you need to do that, you can paint a white space on your model and then cover it with a darker decal. This is a bit trickier than just applying dark lettering to a light-colored model, but it can be done successfully.
"If you need to do that, you can paint a white space on your model and then cover it with a darker decal. This is a bit trickier than just applying dark lettering to a light-colored model, but it can be done successfully...." Yeah, but. And it is a BIG Yeah, but- You are still going to have to match the darker color of the ink that goes around the white printed letters with the color of the car. RBG balancing and matching still will not match up perfectly so that it looks like just white letters over the car's side. If you have a technique that works, please let me know, because I have fought this battle with matching and have an 0-1000 won lost record.
Actually, I've only done this on the sides of buildings. My most successful applications used a border with deliberately mis-matched colors, so that I wasn't trying to get a very close match. If I wanted to do it and make it as white-paint like as possible, I think I'd start by scanning or photographing the car side, and using that as my base for the lettering. Still, I'd imagine I'd do a significant amount of weathering to disguise the edges.
MisterBeasley has covered the hardware pretty good. I use Paintshop Pro 6. I've had it for several years. It's been through several updates and now is part of Corel, but I haven't upgraded yet because there are still tools I have yet to figure out. It is worlds better than Microsoft Paint. I can use any font my computer has with it. I can outline the font, too. And if it's graphics, it's actually easy, with practice now, to obliterate extraneous background by blocking out huge sections then using "bucket fill" with varying tolerances to get in tight. It will also read vector drawings, which is useful when looking at logos from http://www.brandsoftheworld.com/
What is the smallest size font that you use? Do you set the inkjet printer to "normal" "draft" ? (When I have used "best" usually there is too much ink and the adjacent edges bleed together) Another 'scots-man' money saver is to attach a small partial decal sheet onto a larger sheet using 'scotch' tape, then print.
