Dec 16, 2011
Thank you, Bill...!!!!!!! One more
The Alleghenies were very massive and also dwarf the EM-1's. But the EM-1's were the heaviest and biggest locomotives on the B&O due to the B&O's low operating weight limits and tunnel clearances and were also the most modern power.
Coal is King at Silver Valley RR.
And a video.
I went to an operating session on Bob Foltz New Mexico Division this weekend. Heres some shots.
GP7 #2792 idles awaiting an assignment at the Las Vegas, New Mexico Roundhouse.
The "Bovine Bullet" at Springer, New Mexico waiting for #21 the El Capitan and #18 the Super Chief.
Mikado #4065 cruises into Watrous, New Mexico with the Springer Mine Turn.
A Little while later, 4065 arrives into Watrous heading the other direction with the Springer local turn. Not to be confused with the mine turn.
George, if I remember correctly back to my brother's and my Lionels from 1935-ish, they ran on 24 VAC, and reversing was done with a rotary stepping relay mounted in the engine. I believe the relay was installed within the motor/gear/driver assembly, at one end IIRC. There was a Reverser button, usually on the transformer face next to the Speed Control, that interrupted track power momentarily. Each interruption caused the relay to step one position. The relay rotated through four positions - Forward, No Power, Reverse, No Power, Forward, etc. If the relay happened to be in the No Power position following the Forward position and you wanted to go forward, then you had to step through Reverse, then No Power, to get back to Forward. This sounds primative by today's standards, but we thought it was the Cat's Meow 70 years ago, and it sure beat the Marx clockwork wind-up trains.
It's possible that the relay in your engine just needs to be cleaned and lightly lubed. One other thing, you must have power applied to the track and engine for the relay to function. The relay won't step if the transformer and track power are off. If you weren't aware of this, there may be nothing wrong with your Reverser relay.
Those are called "E Units" and are notorious for freezing up or just flat wearing out. If you can get the contact drum rotated to get good solid contact for the forward circuit and leave it, that may be all you can do without replacing it. If you don't need the reverse or stop functions, it is the way to go. They sell new all electronic E Units with no mechanical parts. However they are somewhat expensive and you really need to know what is going on to be able to install one.
Candy, your Front Stoop Good Bye is perfect early 50's...no hugs, no stolen kisses, because "What would the Neighbors Think". :tb-ooh:
Russ, I don't believe the reverser relays I remember had a drum, just a flat circular contact surface at the one end of the relay armature. The contact surface had four sets of two or three contacts, one contact set for each of the four step positions. Though my memory may be foggy because my brother traded everything for HO stuff when I was 11. (including my GG-1, three Madison cars, and all my 0-72 T-Track....GRRRR!!!)
Only one recent project and a small one at that. Replace the dummy coupler on this 70's era Bachmann 0-6-0 with a Kadee #5 coupler. Now I just need to do some touch ups wlat flat black paint where the bare metal is showing through.
OOOOPS! It was the motor that had the outside commutator. The relay had a drum...my bad! Funny how a little Bourbon enhances one's memory. Oh Well, Too Soon Old, Too Late Smart.
All mine (post WWII) have a rotating cylinder with contacts around it and a ratchet wheel on one end. Each time power is applied, a coil pulls a pawl across the ratchet wheel that advances the cylinder one notch connecting different contact fingers riding it, creating different circuits to give reverse, stop and forward. The coil stays energized until the power is interrupted, when it relaxes and is ready for the next application of power to advance the contact cylinder to the next position. There is a switch that deactivates the coil allowing you to hold the last direction position. So far the rum in my eggnog is allowing me to remember things like that.
Per this other thread and my earlier weekend photo fun post:
Here's 2 more pics, after another 24 hours after my previous post in this week's photo fun....
Other than the things listed above, this is still the stock Minitrix paint.
More to come, to fix the fuel tanks, more work with decals for the striping,
body mount couplers, remove too-small nose herald and re-decal, and more.
Thx again, Randgust, for the many tips.
Happy Holidays, all!
Wow John, that nose came out great. And you're right, that red matches up quite nicely. :thumbs_up:
Great photos everyone!
I am still trying to figure out this Cannon Rebel. Here a couple of attempts from tonight.
Thanks! Just flour. It was just something me and one of the guys from work played with on a module.
Awesome scene, Tom. Try using aperture priority mode and push it to F8, then put your camera on a tripod and maybe use manual focus to get the best focus on the middle of your scene's main subject (the locomotive). Let everything else run on auto, and maybe bracket a few shots over and under F8. I think you'll dig what you end up with.
Thanks Jim! I've been experimenting with flour, powdered sugar, and am about to try baking soda. I think I'll go with the last one, as I have tons of it and it looks pretty good. I'll share what I come up with (maybe even compare the three).
Careful with baking soda, I heard it's bad for trains.
I had a good day yesterday, visiting an operating session on Pete Birdsong's Fernwood Lumber Co. (On30)... here's a few pics.
#11 waiting for its train to be made up in the Fernwood yard.
Engine 11 waits for work by BGTwinDad, on Flickr
The red flag that governs passage between Magnolia and Camp 2
Old School Train Control by BGTwinDad, on Flickr
The transfer station at Magnolia. All of Pete's track is handlaid.
Magnolia Interchange by BGTwinDad, on Flickr
The freight track at Fernwood
Fernwood Yard by BGTwinDad, on Flickr
Here's the picture to my video. Coal train at Silver Creek.