I have had some difficulty weathering using chalks on some of my models. Once i have applied the chalk when i spray with dulcote it basically disappears. Should i be adding a lot more chelk and should I be spraying the model with dullcote before I apply the chalk?
Try using Bragdon,s weathering system.It eliminates the need for spraying etc.Here is thier site Addy www.bragdonent.com There is also a review of the product at the weathering doctors site www.weatheringdoctor.com Are you going to dirty up those new Mopac units???
I used to try to seal my chalk weathering too, but it disappears. I use the Bragdons chalks too now, but before that product was available I learned a trick... Spray your model with dullcote, wait about 15 minutes, or JUST until the dullcote looks like it's drying, and then immediatly apply your chalk powder. It will slightly abrase the surface of the dullcote and it sticks well. You do not need to seal it now, just wait 24 hours before rough handling. I like to use dark colors very lightly to highlight features like grills, and rivits first, then dust the whole model with a light color afterwards.
Paul, Starting with dullcoat helps. Usually, before I start any weathering, I will dullcoat a model to protect decals (if any) and to get a good even base for what ever weathering meatod I plan to use (chalk, washes, airbush, drybrushing, etc) Even when fully dry, the chalk really 'takes' to the dull coat. But... To seal a layer of chalk I use a workable matt fixative. These are designed to seal chalk or pencil drawings, so really it's the ideal medium. The can I am using at the moment cme from Lincraft and the brand is Boyle, but really there are pleanty of matt fixatives on the market - the key is to look for something designed for chalk drawings. The 'workable' means that it will take chalk on it's surface - for building up layers - really the best way to do any weathering is to build up layers. Another bonus - it drys in about 5 minutes. It has a matt finish, and you should be able to use it as a top coat, but I find most are not as flat as dullcoat, so I top it off with dullcoat - since the chalk is under a layer, it won't be effected.
Thanks Robert I gave your suggestion a try and it works great, I will also look for the product rob has suggested and try that as well. Thanks guys for your help I hope to post some pictures over the next few days
I use a cheap hairspray, and when it is allmost dry, I do the chalk weathering. When I am pleased with the result the cheap hairspray is used to fix the chalks. Paul
Here is the end result of my weathering. In the end I used two methods dexcribed. first I sprayed the cars with dullcote, then I fixed the chalk by using hairspray which seemed to keep most of the chalk on the model. Thanks for you help guys.
Looks Great Paul!! isnt it wonderful how the numbers on our cars never seem to rust Wouldnt want to be delivering that hopper to a cannery now would we
Woah! What came out really good, I never tried fixing chalk with hairspray. Is it sticky at all? It looks really authentic.
As an HO scaler, I'm way impressed with the weathering job on those N hoppers! Those cars look like they've been rode hard & put up wet!
A great improvement Paul I have some cement hoppers, so I will have to do the same (when I get the layout rebuilt)!
Only while it is drying then it is fine the hairspray seems to spread the chalk unevenly which adds to the effect, I'm really pleased with the end result.
wow! those are fantastic! i really like the result you've got, im going to have to try the method used. once i get some cars that need weathering... and once i get some chalks hehe. good work paul they look so real.
Yup dem hoppers sure are purty!!!!!. I remember using Hair spray when I was knee high to june bug, cause at the time , I could afford it. The brand I was using, ( back in the horribly oversized days), was aqua net, I thinks The other night I got caaried away with grimy black on Esspee double door box. It looks REAL grimy! Maybe too much I will see if I can post a pic here, and by the way ,, how do you do that . Adios for now, have to hit the road to shop fer food and stuff like that. Adios from texas
Ok to post a pic is quite simple click on the image button that is below this box that you type into. Paste the url of the picture and it will show. If you do not have a site where you can upload images I suggest you join our photo upload site Rail Images Good luck and I look forward to seeing your pictures
I knew I should have checked in last week. Concerning the hairspray/workable fixative/chalk issue. I was an art major and love working in chalks. The fact that they will," disappear" if sprayed with the wrong fixative is a horror that most beginning artist students run into freshman semester. It usually happens to that, "once in a lifetime masterpiece". The workable fixative and hairspray solutions work well. I have found, on a rare occassion, that hairspray will interact with certain pigments and cause them to, "shift". However, since most of the weathering colors are organic/stable pigments, this should not be an issue. Generally, I would go with the fixative as it's designed to work with the chalk and not damage the surface (normally paper or canvas) that the chalk is applied to. Some hairsprays may have solvents or perfumes that can attack plastic (but it's OK to put it on your head -perhaps Mr. Clean has the right idea). You can find fixative in most art/craft stores. I use Krylon. Just be darn sure to use it in a WELL VENTILATED area. The fumes from that stuff are the worst. If you expose yourself to too much of it you'll develop memory......aahhhhhh.....errrrrr....uhhhhhh...I forgot what I was thinking. On a rowboat ride to Bemidji, Mark
