HERE'S ANOTHER: The new weathering pens are , in my experience now, harmful !! Yes, it goes on quite fast. I later was showing a friend my layout and (as usually happens) everthing was stalling...that "Check my RR out now ! " is always when there's a gremlin..!! I found out later on that the paint had clogged up all the switch track mechanisms..It was everywhere !! I had to go over many feet of yard track with Exacto and other things getting the poison out of all the parts of the points and allot more..It tends to get all up in the rail joiners, too..This was mostly the 'Rust' color .But I had mixed it up in places along the rails. So I can't say that the 'Rail brown' will do same. It's way thinner and thus runs into everything fast. It may even be THE culprit !! Don't say I didn't warn you !! Unless there's something I missed about its use, it's now off-limits, to me, anyway !!! Take a non- important section and run a test; something I did by just jumping into the project..If I'd known, I'd not have been embarassed with my friend , a non-MRRer at that !! And, I wouldn't have had that hours more of removal work !!! Perhaps weathering structures ,fine. But, track ? So far , no good ......
Wow...that's scary....and I was literally 2 seconds away from heading to Walthers to order some when I stopped by Trainboard on the way :tb-confused: Anyone else have a bad reaction to weathering pens?
Thanks, buddy. That makes me feel a tad less guilty for dissing it so soon !! But, it IS the truth that this happened to me last 3 days...MH
Strange..I've been using the weathering pens on my track with no problems whatsoever. After applying the paint with the weathering pens (Rail Brown on the rails, Tie Brown on the ties), I removed any stray paint from the rail tops with a Bright Boy, and checked each turnout for problems, removing paint where it wasn't supposed to be. The weathering pens are just a tool used to apply paint to a surface- same as dipping a brush in a bottle of paint & painting whatever it is you're wanting to paint. Either way, proper cleanup, plus checking for potential trouble spots, is required. I've used the weathering pens on N scale track, and if anything is going to have problems, it'll be code 55 and code 40 N scale track & locomotives. Again, no problems.
I did fine with them on N Unitrack, except for the switches, which did require cleaning out of the points. I would used them again, but skip weathering the switches, that's for sure.
It stands to reason, that you need to keep the paint out of the point hinges and off the areas of the track that have to conduct electricity, whether applied by paintbrush, airbrush, or paint pen.
I was thinking how nice it would have been to have painted all the rails BEFORE installing them. Flex or hand laid rail could be coated and then the ends be sanded or turpentined clean for joiners. Later on go back and hand paint joiners and switches..But for most of us it's too late for that move...Just a thought...
After consideration I ordered the pens - I think with careful use they could be a great product. Hindsight is always the best vision, and I would have painted my rails before laying them if I was going to start over. This seems like a viable alternative and judging from the pictures posted, it looks really good. Thanks for the cautions Mark.
You are all quite welcome. Todd, what use is it to wheather everthing but the switches ?..Unless you meant ; hand paint them later..But it is just this; product claims to make this job easy. But they don't bother to tell you in, say, directions for use ( none on/in package or pens) to be extra careful at switches. And, even though we know better now, it still fouls the rail-joiners .So, what then ? Do nothing but all the rail between them and then hand paint the rest ? This is not so much easier. Also,sadly, the stuff coats the outer and inner ties and not just the spike heads as I'd thought would be the case..Now what ? Go back and (hand) paint the ties or try to remove THIS ,too ? See what I mean ? It's like they just went ahead and made this so-called easy solution to weathering rails but neglected to plan for these hassles..Like the digital TV debacle now infuriating me and many others around the country with its unseen pixilation/channels dropping-out now : which never occured with analog TV, other than ghosts. As if it were not entirely examined prior to the change-over.. Many folks out there are mighty angry over this.. See? Like. " Just get the products sold (digital converters and flat screen TVs) and ignore the consequences "..I know it's just MRR paint. But it's not such a panacia as Floquil would have us believe..Sorry, but that's my take (< disclaimer )...
Hmm.....I've painted the sides of the rails, over the tops of the ties (after painting the rails), even done the turnouts, and have had no problems. And I had my track laid on the layout before I painted & weathered it. Personally, I've found Floquil paint pens to be easy to use, and much neater than using a brush (and yes, I've done both methods). If there are problems with paint getting in the rail joiners and supposedly messing up electrical conductivity, I have to wonder how well the track was laid prior to painting it. Even if the track isn't painted or weathered, not snugging the track together to prevent gaps would cause electrical problems. Also, if the paint is applied carefully, and the rail tops cleaned afterwards, there shouldn't be any trouble. I would recommend Floquil paint pens to anyone. It's all a mater of how careful the work is done, and if the track was properly laid, and properly cleaned after the paint dries.
I'm with Bob on the rail joiners. If the joints are soldered (they should be) there shouldn't be a problem.
Yes guys..I may have (pun intended) laid it on too thick about the pens..I guess if I'd been more careful especially at the switch mechanisms all would have been OK..I have been pondering if there might be a way to prevent the paint drying in places where we'd remove it..There is a stick-pen WD 40 I have. It's exactly like the Floquil..I'm thinking maybe douse all the parts in the switch with it just prior to using the weathering stick..on the joints, too..Maybe this will prevent the paint from setting-up and remain able to be wiped away while also lubing the point hinges (Which have contact plates under them). Well, I'll go try this and report back..
I noticed it was mentioned one of the pens came out like ink, making it extra capilliary(?) . They need some serious shaking before every use, especially if they've been sitting on that LHS shelf for a couple of years. Rich W
Thanks to all responces ...I guess the pens are good..I haven't tried the WD40 trick yet..Maybe tonight..I'll report back when I have....
Well my weathering pen set (rail brown, railroad tie brown, rust) arrived today and so first thing I grabbed a couple of spare sections of NS Atlas track to try them out. I have to say I'm pretty impressed with the results - it actually looks like real track now :tb-biggrin: Granted it will be a major job doing the whole layout but I don't think it will be too bad done in sections. I do see where switches could be a challenge but I will follow the "less is more" philosophy. This is one time I can say I'm glad I procrastinated on ballasting the track - should make it a little easier to apply the paint.
I've been using them on turnouts before I install them. That way when I airbrush the rest of the track, I don't have to go anywhere near the turnouts and muck them up with paint.
I can't imagine how this would be a problem. If you use the stuff sparingly and don't allow it to glob and run. As for myself. I solder almost all my joints and have track leads every so many feet, to insure no dead spots along the way. So if the current can't get to the track from one direction, it can from the other down the line. STEVE
I've not used the pens, but I've used hand painting and rattle can spray and I've never had a problem. It's a forgone conclusion that you should lay off the switches. I only paint the outside of the switches, not the inside at all. for the rest of it, solder every single joint period. This is not an optional step. You solder it or you invite problems. With those 2 restrictions, you paint it on a brightboy it off the tops.
If you apply a thin layer of light oil or grease or petroleum jelly, via our finger, to the top of the rail before you paint, you won't have to use a Bright Boy. Just rubbing with a cloth after the paint has dried will remove the rail top layer of paint. I use old t-shirts for this. Sometimes, a little paint thinner (not laquer or other harsh solvents) on the cloth is needed. Once that cleaning is done, I only have to run the Bright Boy over the rails once or twice. Easier and keeps my Bright Boy free of paint residue. Agreed on the turnouts. I painted all of mine real good and thick before laying them down and gave myself hours of, "entertainment". Dental picks and powered buffing tools have almost fixed my errors...and tearing out one and possibly two more turnouts for replacement. Mark
It's a slow process but so far no problems. And no I did not solder any of my joints either. Not saying that's not a good idea, just saying I've had 95% of the track down for a year now without problems and I don't feel like soldering 500 joints :tb-ooh: I use a bright boy for cleaning up afterward. I'm very careful with the paint so it's not much of a hassle and it's doing a double duty of giving my track an overdue cleaning. Also...I figured the rust paint was put in the package for a reason, so I'm hitting all the tie plates with it. Call me crazy but it looks good.
