I am building a water tank for my railroad. What's the best way to simulate the bands that wrap the tank? I have thought of using wire, a flat braided twine, and who knows what else. I have also wondered how to simulate joint where the ends of the bands come together. Any help ?
In "G" scale, you can solder two lengths of a tiny diameter copper or brass tubing to make the Anchor look like the real one. Run your wire through one allowing a scale 4 to 6" to stick out beyond, then epoxy a scale 1-1/2" hex nut (or square nut) on the wire end up against the Anchor. Then pull the wire tight, run it through the other tube, and cut it to length. Use masking tape to hold the wire in place, and epoxy another nut over that wire and up against the tube. The position of the nuts, when tightened, in real life, will pull the "wire" rods tightly around the wood "Barrel" of the water tower, see? Paint them black or tuscan red before assembling the wires, then use clear epoxy. When it sets up, remove the masking tape and touch up the epoxy carefully, and it will look like the real ones do (or did). Remember to stager the Anchors, and for spacing, there are more of the bands along the lower part of a water tank, then at the top. There is more water pressure at the bottom, see? Look at a photo of one about th years you want to model.
Thanks for the info. I think I know what I'll be doing for at least part of this weekend. I find that modelling is a lot like magic: once you know how to create the illusion, it's not really that difficult and people think you're a real wizard. Another part of the illusion I'm having trouble with is the water spout itself. The long tapered part is fairly easy, but that curved end...
You can layout and cut the "orange peel shape and solder up a curved tapered spout like the real ones are, for use with real water if you are going to run live steam. That is a lot of work, and there is another way that can be used with real water too. For the curve in the spout, go to a Malt Shop, or Drug Store and get the large sized Soda Straws that are made to bend, used for bedridden invalids, like in a hospitel, and for little kids. Bend one to the shape you want, and coat the inside with epoxy, using a pipe cleaner to smear a good layer all around the inside where the bend is and out a ways each side of it. Block it or pin it to hold the shape you want. When it cures, cut the soda straw off to length on the down spout end, and about 1/2 inch long on the other. Curl your tapered spout so it will just allow the soda straw to slip inside, and glue it in place with some more epoxy. Dress the epoxy off smooth around the joint and let it cure. Be sure the curved portion points down when the hinge pin is horizontal! Paint the whole thing with a good priner, then a couple of coats of grimey black. AND.... If you want a row of rivits along the tapered spout, (before painting) run a gear from a watch, or tiny toothed gear from a clock along the edge of some aluminum foil, close to the edge. Carefully put a light coat of epoxy along the row of dents you have made that will look like rivits on the other side. (Ideally is to fill the dents, then wipe off all the rest so just the dents are filled, if you can.) When cured, The rivits are less likely to be mashed. Set it aside for now to cure. Wrap some paper around the tapered part of the spout, aligning one edge along the centerline of the spout length wise, and mark along the edge and both ends square. Cut along your marks on each END, but allow an 1/8 inch more along the rivit edge. Lay this "template" on the BACK SIDE of the foil, and gently score, or cut the foil to match the Template. Now gently apply some contact cement along the tapered spout. Align the NON-rivited edge along the tapered spout and gently press the foil to the spout. Carefully wrap the foil WITHOUT WRINKLES around the spout until the rivited edge comes to over-lap the starting edge. Use a tooth pic to spread a tiny bead of contact or AC cement along under the rivits, and press the rivits down with your finger or a cotton Q-Tip being sure to wipe off any excess. (DO NOT USE YOUR FINGER if you use AC glue!) Now paint the foil lightly, and your rivits will stand out and be noticed! See? This is another old Museum Diorama trick: (If you dry brush the rivits gently a tiny bit with silver paint, one direction only, away from you, they will stand out and can be noticed from a distance). It is an illusion that makes your eyes think they are seeing the reflection of light. (SH-h-h-h Its a secret, don't tell anyone!) EXPERIMENT BEFORE TACKELING THE SPOUT, AND YOU WILL DO A GOOD JOB! [ 05 April 2002, 17:46: Message edited by: watash ]
